13 Wonderful Things To Do in Albania
Want to know the best things to do in Albania for your upcoming adventure or curious about a holiday there?
Our guide has got you sorted.
It was The Simpsons that first introduced me to Albania.
An episode from the early ‘90s golden period, where an exchange student called Adil Hoxha arrives in Springfield and hosted by the cartoon family. He’s friendly and polite - the opposite of Bart - but it turns out that he’s actually a spy sent by the Communist government of a secretive small European country to gather information on American nuclear power plants.
Six- or seven-year-old me almost certainly thought the country was made up.
Fast forward thirty years, and a lot more people know an awful lot more about Albania.
During the Cold War half of the 20th century, the small Balkan country was a hermit kingdom of sorts, self-reliant by choice and closed to the outside world. Ruled for forty years by the increasingly paranoid dictator Enver Hoxha (the namesake for Adil), it was the world’s first atheist state and extremely isolated due to ideological disagreements first with the Soviet Union and then with China.
Think of it as a European North Korea, just across the water from Italy.
Tourism was virtually non-existent, with any visitor closely monitored and often required to get a conforming haircut at the border.
When Hoxha’s statues were pulled down and democracy arrived in 1991, a significant number of citizens took the opportunity to leave the poverty and potential chaos behind, escaping to Italy and Greece.
Since then, migration has remained a common theme for Albanians and this - along with the darker side of its economy - continues to shape most outside perspectives.
One suspicion merely replaced another.
But, in recent years, travellers have been clamouring for an adventure in Albania. Tempted by viral TikTok videos, promises of a ‘cheap’ Italy or Greece, or curious about the reality behind the headlines focussed on small boats, car washes, grow houses, and organised crime, there was a moment when it felt like the only place to have your Euro summer was in the country more known for people leaving.
We headed there on a road trip from the imposing peaks of the Accursed Alps to stone villages scattered across southern valleys, via a gorgeous array of beaches and bays along two seas, and are delighted to now share our favourite things to do in Albania.
Whether you’re Balkan backpacking and beach-hopping, heading out to hike and delve into the history, or wanting to craft an itinerary with wine, sunshine, castles and culture, you’ll find all the inspiration, ideas, and tips you need to help plan your own trip - plus an honest perspective on the overrated parts.
This is 13 Wonderful Things To Do in Albania.
The Best Things To Do in Albania
Hike / The Accursed Mountains and Theth
Explore / The Upper Albanian Riviera Beaches
Wander / Historical streets in Gjirokaster
Hang / Out in The Coastal Town of Himarë
Learn / The Dark History in Tirana
Visit / The Secret Beaches of Ksamil
Drink / Local Wines in Berat
See / The Lake and Castle of Shkodër
Stare / Into The Mesmerising Blue Eye
Enjoy / The Local Guesthouses & Hospitality
Discover / The Legend of a national hero in Krujë
Walk / Amongst The Roman Ruins of Butrint
Hike in The Accursed Mountains & Theth-Valbonë
Whilst it’s the beaches of the south which draw more and more visitors to Albania each year, it’s the mountains in the far north that will blow you away.
The scenery rivalled anything we’ve seen in Switzerland, France, Scotland, and northern Italy.
The wonderfully-named Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps, take some effort to reach but give you access to breathtakingly pure, clean landscapes. We shaped our whole road trip route to do the unmissable Valbonë Pass hike, but you don’t have to be a hardcore hiker to enjoy the tranquility and trails of the lesser-visited highlands.
The quiet villages of Theth and Valbonë, both surrounded by picturesque peaks, offer an accessible blend of scenery and tranquility, and you can venture out on a range of easy to difficult hikes and walks, or simply choose to disconnect and reconnect with nature for a few days. Both are in a stunning location, with Albanian Alps acting as a constant backdrop, and due to transport connections it's a good idea to plan to spend a couple of days up there to make the most of it.
Just try to avoid singing ‘The Sound of Music’ at the top of your lungs every morning…
Know | Due to the weather and conditions, the season for heading up to the Albanian Alps unfortunately starts quite late in the year, typically around June until October. Whilst it’s possible to visit before that, the mountain hiking trails will be impassable due to snow.
Book | Public transport up to Theth and Valbone is really limited and the logistics can add an extra day or two to Albania itineraries.
If you don’t have a rental car or enough time for that, then consider joining this popular three-day tour of Valbona and Theth from Tirana or this slightly cheaper alternative
Tip | For road trippers, the new road to Theth has dramatically improved accessibility. Whilst it’s still one hell of a drive - all hairpin bends, narrow passes, and first gear most of the way - thankfully it’s much smoother and less accident prone than its previous reputation.
Stay / We loved Guesthouse Mehmeti in Valbone, whilst Villa Ujëvara has incredible mountain views in Theth.
Plan / The Valbona Pass Hike Guide
Explore The Upper Albanian Riviera
Albania is embraced by the Adriatic Sea to the north and the Ionian Sea to the south.
The very best beaches are found along a stretch of the Ionian generally known as the Albanian Riviera. It runs from city of Vlorë in the north and ends down at Butrint National Park, and is blessed with the signature blues most of you will be hoping for.
There are so many stunning beaches to discover.
For us, the best way to explore the Albanian Rivera is to split it in two sections - the wilder north and the more developed south - and sort your itinerary accordingly according to your travel style and preferences.
Accessed via the bum-clenching Llogara Pass, the northern section is home to several of our favourite beaches like Gjipe, Grama Bay, Aquarium, Guma, Jale, and Borsh. Some are remote and difficult to access, some require a boat trip, whilst others are ideal for a lazy day of sunbathing and swimming; we suggest spending at least a few days exploring this area is absolutely one of the best things to do in Albania.
Know | If you've ever spent a summer in Italy, you'll be prepared for the biggest, most divisive and most important feature of the Albanian coastline - the private beach clubs. These take over some bays and charge quite a bit, but there is thankfully lots of free, public beach to spread out on in the northern section.
Tip | The coast here is becoming more popular each year with foreign travellers, but it’s still the longstanding favourite of locals. late July to the end of August is the peak season, both for the temperatures and the crowds, and we’d suggest the best overall experience will be in June and September to early October.
Plan / We took a lot of time to write the free, definitive guide - The 19 Best Beaches in Albania - to help you find the very best beaches for your trip & tastes, plan ahead, avoid some common mistakes, and understand some of the eccentricities of Albania’s beach culture. It’s long, but so many readers have been in touch to tell us how much it helped them travel better and find their perfect beach, so don’t leave home without reading it!
Go To Gjirokaster
The Stone City is where two of Albania’s famous sons were born.
The dictator Enver Hoxha and the writer Ismail Kadare were raised in the same street nearly three decades apart in Gjirokaster, and left starkly different legacies for the country. While Kadare’s former residence is now a testament to his literary works and status as Albania’s greatest author, Hoxha’s is an ethnographic museum a few doors down where one must open black boxes in a darkened room to learn of his ruthless cruelty and transformation from hero to villain.
Set within the stunning Drino Valley, this UNESCO World Heritage town is incredibly easy on the eye. Composed of pale stone and slate, it offers historical insights, culture, hiking, Ottoman architecture, and a surprisingly good laid back nightlife in its nooks, alleys, and slanted cobblestone streets.
We really wish we had spent another day or two there, and for those who are less-focussed on beach time, this town will likely be a highlight of your trip.
Know | Don’t miss the 1.5km Cold War Tunnel under the castle - a secret for years, it’s been left pretty much how it was found in the 1990s.
Book | Gjirokaster is the ideal place to do a traditional cooking class or learn more about the history with this excellently-priced three-hour walking tour.
Tip | The Albanian currency is the Lek, named after Alexander the Great. It’s not possible to find or exchange it outside the country, so you should arrive with some Euro or British pounds to convert until you can withdraw from an ATM. However, Euro is so widely accepted and quoted across the country that it actually feels like there are two currencies, and we recommend bringing a decent amount of Euro if you have it available (cash is still king here).
To save on fees and get better rates, we recommend getting a Wise account before you head out.
Stay | Two or three nights will be ideal, and if you’re looking for a beautiful hotel in a historic building that gives you an authentic taste of Ottoman design, make it Hotel Musée. For any backpackers or budget travellers, then Stone City Hostel should be your first choice.
Hang Out In Himarë
Himarë is a great place for travellers looking for a chilled out base by the Ionian Sea.
A small coastal town, rather than a beach with a modern tourism development growing around it, life revolves around the summer season. There’s an excellent trio of public beaches, and it’s an ideal hub for chilled out sunbathing days, boat tours to secluded bays, and beach-hopping day trips along the Albanian Riviera by rental car or public transport.
The beaches to the north and south of the town are amongst the best you’ll find in the country - with most of them less than a 30-minute drive away.
There’s also Old Himarë, a ghost town atop a cliff overlooking the sea. Founded by the Greeks 3,500 years ago, it deserves a lot more attention than most tourists give it.
Whilst the town may lack the fancier hotels and holiday resorts you'll find elsewhere, and is a bit dishevelled or dog-eared in parts, but it was a great fit for our travel style and every traveller we spoke to much preferred laid-back Himarë to the more expensive and more Insta-famous flashy southern resort town of Ksamil (more on that later).
Know | It is not currently recommended to drink the tap water in Albania. We took our trusty travel filter water bottles and used them daily to fill up wherever we were in the country, saving us a small fortune in bottled water (plus all the plastic waste).
You can buy one on Amazon here or direct from the Water-to-Go website.
Stay | The delightful Soñar en el Mar for something nicer, Himara Hostel for something social, or the Airbnb apartment we stayed in for something convenient right by the beach.
Tip | Alternatively, if you’re looking for more of a fly + flop beach holiday base with more modern facilities, then consider Dhermi. It’s half an hour from Himarë and one of the region’s better beach resorts with countless clubs, restaurants, and hotels along the lovely 2+ kilometre long stretch of sand. Palladium and Alevra are two great accommodation options to consider.
Plan / Our Travel Guide To Himarë
Do An Albanian Road Trip
Albania is made for a road trip, and renting your own wheels is the ideal way to see stitch it all together.
As we love a road trip here at Along Dusty Roads, we knew that hiring a car was going to be the only option for our travel style and plans to slowly go from the north to the south of Albania. The country’s bus network is quite limited and there are no trains, so a rental also makes things much easier from a practical perspective and opens up several hard-to-reach areas of the coast.
Unless you’re a nervous driver, the road trip experience is also quite memorable.
Across our two week Albania road trip, we negotiated hairpin switchbacks and mountain passes, narrow one-way roads with no passing places, dusty beach downhills, congestion, dodgy CD sellers, log-jams, young guys speeding in Swiss-plated Porsches, police stops, watermelon and corn-on-the-cob stalls, half-finished houses, and a daily parade of goats, sheep, and the odd obstinate cow staring us down in the middle of the road.
So think of renting a car and heading out not just as a way to get around the country, but a way to really see more sides of it.
Know | Whilst several of the main highways and roads in Albania have seen significant investment and improvement in the last few years, there are still some in quite poor condition.
Book | We recommend looking + booking your car hire in Albania via two aggregators that we use for all our road trips: Rentalcars.com and AutoEurope. It’s a good to check prices and availability on both to make sure you’re getting the best deal possible - we picked up and dropped off at Tirana Airport.
Tip | You’ll also see lots of travellers in motorhomes and camper vans. Campsites are very common across the country and most accept vans, and some car parks are designated for camper van stays too. Quality and facilities vary quite bit. Talking with other travellers, typical costs are €5-10 for an overnight space.
Plan / Everything You Need To Know About Driving in Albania + Our Albania Road Trip Route
Tirana & The House of Leaves
The capital city met and missed some of our expectations, but it’s an essential stop for everyone hoping to understand Albania’s past and future.
Tirana's skyline has transformed dramatically, with much of the Soviet-influenced architecture replaced by modern apartment blocks and office buildings. This makeover is fuelled by a significant influx of money - much of it dirty - that shows no signs of slowing down. The city is currently in the midst of a construction boom, a property bubble, and a corruption scandal, all while thousands of flats remain empty. For an in-depth look at this issue, we highly recommend a recent article in The Times.
For the traveller though, beyond a mish-mash of mostly unappealing aesthetics, your time in Tirana will be a pleasant enough two or three days depending how much you really want to dedicate to the city over the coast and the mountains.
For us, however long you spend there, The House of Leaves is unmissable.
Also known as the Museum of Secret Surveillance, the one-time hospital was taken over by Ministry of the Interior and transformed into the headquarters of the Sigurimi (Albania’s secret police) under Hoxha’s hardline Stalinist dictatorship. It’s incredibly well-designed and curated, thoughtfully revealing the extent of the repression and paranoia apparatus, as well as unexpected aspects of daily life from the period.
This, alongside the ‘Site of Witness and Memory’ in Shkodër, are the essential places to learn of Albania’s darker political history.
Know | Hoxha’s paranoia about attacks from east and west resulted in the construction of over 170,000 bunkers in Albania. Many remain in place, especially along the coast, but BunkArt 2 is perhaps the most well-known. In the heart of Tirana, it’s been converted into a popular underground museum further chronicling the Communist-era repression. Lots of visitors put it amongst the best things to do in Albania, but we think you should prioritise House of Leaves if you only have time to visit one.
Read | If you want to learn more about Albania’s isolationist period, then we can happily recommend two books we took on our road trip. The first is Freedom by Lia Ypi, a surprisingly entertaining biographical account of her childhood in Albania in the late 80s and early 90s. The second is Mud Sweeter Than Honey, a powerful collection of testimonies.
Stay | We treated ourselves to a fancier, modern option in Hotel Stela Center primarily because it had private parking for guests, and we really did not fancy trying to find a space in Tirana.
Plan / How To Spend A Day in Tirana (published soon)
The Secret Beaches of Ksamil
The resort town of Ksamil gets a lot of attention.
Touted as the ‘European Maldives’ and frequently on social media feeds, it has mushroomed into an in-demand resort town with a lot of on-going development, a lot of money washing around, and a lot of people packed under parasols on its feature beach.
In peak summer, not an inch is available to the public for free, with beach clubs dominating the area and covering nearly every grain of imported sand.
And the prices charged will definitely make you reconsider the affordability of Albania.
Ksamil is the place for wealthy young locals to be seen and splash their cash, with the desired clientele at several places absolutely not being a backpacker or budget-conscious traveller. New hotels and restaurants are popping up all the time and, whilst the vibe and trajectory may appeal to some, it wasn’t our cup of tea.
That doesn’t mean you should all totally avoid Ksamil, as it remains more appealing than Sarandë and the most likely base from which to explore the southern Albanian Riviera’s excellent beaches on day trips and visit the ruins of Butrint.
Outside of the high summer season, it may also have much more charm to it…
Know | Mirror Beach and Plazhi I Pulëbardhës are two fabulous beaches less than 5km from Ksamil, and they should absolutely be on your hit list. Nearby Monastery Beach used to be one of the most popular and beautiful in the country, but it’s now closed for construction and inaccessible, with our hunch being that it’s likely to become a private beach resort.
Tip | If you’re staying in Ksamil, you need to factor in the cost of the sunbeds and umbrellas at the beach clubs. In peak summer, you’ll be looking at €20-35 was more common, whilst at the fancier beach clubs in Ksamil, you’re talking €50 for two beds in the best spot and up to €120 for their VIP option! Any drinks and food consumed are charged in addition.
Stay | After a lot of research before and after visiting, we honestly think we the place we ended up staying - Area Hotel - is one of the better options.
Plan / Our Ksamil Travel Guide
Berat & Wine Country
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 due to its distinctive and well-preserved style of Ottoman architecture, Berat is a favourite of many first-time visitors in Albania.
Known as “The City of a Thousand Windows” because of a mistranslation, it may be the place that reveals how much more there is to appreciate about the country’s history and culture beyond its bleak 20th century.
Split by the Osumi river and spread across three historic neighbourhoods, the compact town is photogenic and its cobblestone streets a pleasure to get lost amongst, but it’s the fact that Berat is the jump-off point for several wineries and vineyards - yep, Albania has a burgeoning wine scene - which means you should definitely consider spending more than just a day here.
Know | During our summer visit, we learned that kayaking in the nearby Osumi Canyon and Tomor Lake is a popular activity in Berat. However, it’s seasonal and very dependent on water levels - February to June are considered the best months, whilst it was way too low when we were there in July.
Book | If you only have time for a day trip to Berat, considering joining this highly-rated three-hour walking tour
Stay | We loved our stay in the family-run Osumi Guesthouse, which was in one of the Ottoman houses and included a lovely traditional breakfast each morning. If that doesn’t suit your travel style, then consider Hotel Ansel and Berat Backpackers as alternative options.
Get Stuck in Shkodër
The gateway to the north, and likely first stop for anyone hopping over the border with Montenegro, we initially viewed the city of Shkodër purely as a necessary pitstop before and after the Albanian Alps.
It left a much deeper impression though, and we preferred it over the capital Tirana.
A place where many still ride bicycles and travellers can easily linger for longer than they planned, Shkodër offers majestic views from ruins of Rozafa Castle, access to Lake Shkodra - the largest lake in the Balkans that goes by many names - and a nice array of traditional and modern restaurants and bars in the Rruga G'juhadol area.
Most striking though is the aforementioned 'Site of Witness and Memory' - the most impactful and meaningful exhibit we visited in Albania. Housed in the one-time orphanage, hospital, and convent that was confiscated and taken over by Ministry of the Interior in 1946 as pre-trial holding cells for political prisoners, it’s the first site to commemorate the victims of Hoxha's ideologically-driven dictatorship and lay bare the realities of the country’s ban on all religion in 1967.
Know | If you are heading to the Albanian Alps, then you’ll probably need to spend at least two nights in Shkodër, with one at the start and one after you come back. The city is also the place to grab the daily shuttle to/from the Alps, but you should try to reserve in advance as places are very limited.
The city is also the gateway to a day trip or overnight stay on the increasingly popular - but possibly overrated - Lake Komani.
Book | If you don’t have a car or time to spend a few nights in Shkodër, then consider joining this day tour from Tirana, which includes the castle, the city, and the lake.
Stay | We stayed at the excellent Mi Casa Es Tu Casa, whilst those looking for something a bit more upscale should consider the popular Hotel Tradita
Stare At The Blue Eye
Not too far from the coastal city of Saranda, the Blue Eye is an impossibly deep natural spring, responsible for gushing out much of the country’s fresh water at a rate of 18,400 litres per second!
Its beauty and setting in lush surrounds have combined to make it one of the most popular things to do in Albania, but the site and experience is unfortunately now on the ‘big tourism’ trajectory: contrary to spending a summer day immersed in remote nature and submerged in turquoise waters, it’s better to anticipate crowds, electric scooters, and much more modern development in the vicinity.
It will remain on nearly every first-timer’s itinerary though.
Although many expect that they can swim in the Blue Eye itself, this is now actually forbidden - but you are permitted in the surrounding river waters. Be aware that the water here is permanently in the 12°C range and verrrrrry fresh.
Know | Most will visit the Blue Eye on a day trip from Saranda or Ksamil, whilst road trippers can include it as a stop between Gjirokaster and the coast. It’s a 4km round-trip walk for the Blue Eye along a paved road, and lots of people now do it with electric scooters - but there is an alternative route through the trees to turn it into a more enjoyable hike.
Book | If you want logistics taken care of, then check out this tour with round-trip transfers from Saranda and an English-speaking guide
Tip | As the Blue Eye is firmly established one of Albania’s most popular things to do, it’s guaranteed to be crowded every day in summer. For the best experience, we highly recommend arriving early. Also, don’t be a dick and try to swim in the actual Blue Eye.
Guesthouses & Local Experiences
We try not to do clichés here at Along Dusty Roads, but it feels important to share that we felt very welcomed as visitors throughout Albania - and the warmth we received at several family-run accommodations was remarkable.
Perhaps it’s because tourism here is still widely viewed as a positive, or there are negative stereotypes to counter, or there is something running deeper in a culture and people that were cut off from the world so long.
Whatever the reasons, it shone through.
The experience we had makes us confident suggesting that you try to go out of your way to stay in a few family-run guesthouses. Not only is the hospitality often off the charts, but if you land at a good old school one, the rooms and beds are plush with thick rugs and blankets, and breakfast homemade with lots of local produce (we still dream of our one in the mountains at Guesthouse Mehmeti).
Know | It is polite, and expected, that you’ll take your shoes off when entering guesthouses. There’s usually a rack to put them, as well as lovely little house slippers to borrow.
Do | The 'Xhiro' is a lovely Albanian tradition. Similar to the Italian passeggiata, families, lovers, and groups of friends will take to the streets in the early evening for a stroll and some social time, and the traveller's role is to simply join, observe, and enjoy. In Berat, make sure to head to Bulevardi Republika to partake or people-watch!
Learn | The local language is Albanian, and if you want to get some basic words and phrases under your belt, this YouTube video is a decent starting place. However, you’ll find that English is the main language of tourism, and it’s very widely and excellently spoken by the younger generation.
Krujë & Skanderbeg
Balanced on mountain slopes less than an hour's drive from Tirana Airport, the town of Krujë is probably the most important in the Albanian story.
This was the stronghold of the man they call Skanderbeg, the leader of the Albanian resistance and scourge of the Ottoman Empire. A sort of Braveheart in the Balkans figure, he is a much-celebrated national hero over here and you’ll see his name, face, and got-horn helmet everywhere.
Krujë remains the best place to learn of him and his exploits, with the town’s castle redesigned in the 1980s - party by Enver Hoxha’s daughter - to house the Muzeu Kombëtar Gjergj Kastrioti (The Skanderbeg Museum).
Though small, Krujë is also home to one of the oldest bazaars in Albania - ideal for picking up some souvenirs or vintage memorabilia - and offers a privileged setting to enjoy a slow lunch with a view.
Know | You will find various alternative spellings for places in Albania due to translations of the umlaut: Krujë, for example, also goes by Kruja, Shkodër is Shkodra, Himarë is Himara, and Sarandë is Saranda.
Book | If you're not doing an Albanian road trip and not planning to stay overnight in Kruja, then the most convenient option may be to join this highly-rated full-day tour from Tirana
Stay | There aren’t too many place available in the town, but the family-run Emiliano Guesthouse by the castle is one of the better options.
Plan / The Krujë Travel Guide
Butrint Archaeological Park
Shaded by trees and surrounded by wetlands, Butrint is considered the country’s most important archeological site and gained its UNESCO World Heritage Site listing in 1992.
A 10-minute drive south of Ksamil, the settlement has been occupied by the Greeks, Romans, and briefly by the Venetians, before it was abandoned in the Middle Ages due to marshes making it unviable; today the marshes and the sprawling ruins combine to make Butrint feel like a nature site as much as a historical one.
It offers a change of pace and interest from Ksamil, Sarande and the beaches, and highlights include the Ancient Greek theatre, the Baptistery, and the bizarrely straight stone cuts, whilst the small museum has potential if they improve a few aspects.
Go | Entry is 1000 lek for foreign adults (cash only), and the park is open every day from 8am to 7pm. Find it here on Google Maps
Know | We recommend spending a couple of hours exploring Butrint and suggest arriving in the early morning or late afternoon so you can enjoy it without the crowds and before/after the heat spikes. Most of the site is outdoors and you cover it on foot, so comfy footwear, suncream, and plenty water is essential.
Tip | Whilst Tirana Airport is the most common entry point for anyone flying into Albania, a popular alternative is to take the more frequent and cheaper flights to the Greek island of Corfu. From there, you can hop on a 30-60 minute ferry from there to the port of Saranda - check schedules and book on DirectFerries.
However, the upcoming opening of Vlora International Airport (Vlorë International Airport) is going to bring many more tourists straight to the Albanian coast, and will likely become the most popular flight route for beach-focussed trips.
