The Best Things to Do in Berat, Albania | The City of Windows
Planning to visit Berat? Our guide has got you covered for this pretty little UNESCO city in Albania.
There is no reason for you to count the windows in the 2,400 year old city of Berat.
Split in two by the Osum river and dusting both sides of a green valley in central Albania, it’s known by most as “The City of a Thousand Windows” for, well, obvious reasons once you’ve seen any picture.
But, a little like how Jimi Hendrix kissed the ‘guy’ rather than the ‘sky’, this mistranslation of a mishearing has been repeated so often in guidebooks, blogs, and Instagram posts that it’s become reality.
So, we’re going to set the record straight.
Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 due to its distinctive and well-preserved style of Ottoman architecture, Berat should actually be known as - drumroll please - "The City of One Over The Other Windows ”.
Ah.
We see why that may not really have caught on.
Thankfully, regardless of the number or the nickname, Berat is a place of undeniable beauty.
For first-time visitors in Albania, it may be the first destination that reveals how much more there is to know and appreciate about this country’s history and culture beyond its bleak 20th century. Throw in the fact that it’s also home to a wonderful art gallery and several wineries, and you may just start to reconsider just how quickly you need to be heading south to the country’s stunning beaches.
In our travel guide, we’ve shared all the best things to do in Berat, alongside recommendations on where to eat, drink, stay, and personal tips to make your stay more memorable (and less stressful). There’s also all the essentials on transport connections in and out.
This is our guide to Berat, Albania.
The Berat Essentials
Where / Two hours south of Tirana, three to four hours from Himarë, Gjirokaster, and Shkodër
Explore / The historic neighbourhoods of Mangalemi and Gorica slowly (join this walking tour if you’d like a deeper understanding of what makes them special)
Eat / Lots of traditional Albanian restaurants, with Lili’s one of the most popular options
Do / A tasting at one or several nearby family-run wineries. Visit with your own vehicle or join a highly-rated tour
Enjoy / Beautiful art at the Onfuri Iconography Museum
Visit / The Berat Castle viewpoint and ruins
Go / Kayaking or canyoning when the river level rises
Stay / Two or three nights - we stayed in Hotel Osumi and were very happy, but young or budget travellers should take a look at Berat Backpackers
Plan / Our Albania Itinerary
The Best Things To Do in Berat
Explore The Mangalemi Neighbourhood
To the left of the Osum river, Mangalemi is the largest neighbourhood and the one which you'll have seen most photos of when researching or being inspired to visit Berat.
Under the Ottoman Empire, the town was largely configured by religious affiliation, with the incoming Muslim majority based in Mangalemi and the displaced Christian community on the other side of the river. This is why the city's three main mosques are all situated here, and also explains some architectural differences.
The cobblestone streets of Mangalemi are the most pristine and photogenic in Berat, and a pleasure to get lost within. In contrast to Gorica across the water, this area has been renovated and regenerated to match the 'old town' tourism aesthetic of many other European destinations, and has several boutique guesthouses and popular restaurants amongst its stairways and layers of classical Ottoman architecture.
To enjoy it, we suggest simply following your nose, curiosity, and any random cat you come across. There's a lovely viewpoint on to Gorica and the Torro hill and, on the riverfront, the Rruga Antipatrea street is lined with traditional restaurants, art shops, a few drinking holes, and a surprising number of fast food joints, making it one of the busiest social hubs in the evenings.
We’ve shared a few specific restaurant recommendations in our ‘Where To Eat + Drink’ section later in the post, and covered a number of its main attractions as standalone things to do in Berat.
Travel Tip // If you’d like to gain a deeper understanding of what makes Berat a UNESCO heritage site and its Ottoman architecture, consider joining this excellent three-hour walking tour which visits Mangalemi, Gorica and the castle neighbourhood.
Alternatively, this shorter Berat walking tour with local guide Bruno is also very highly-rated.
Go To Gorica On the Other Side
Whether it's a thousand and one or not, the place to enjoy those quintessential views over the windows of Berat is from Gorica on the left bank of the river.
This neighbourhood is lesser-visited and slightly more dishevelled with several buildings either vacant or in a state of disrepair. We immediately had the sense that this area will, if the cats and residents permit it, be a barometer of Albania's gradual rise as a tourism destination, with the empty old stone houses eventually turned into Airbnbs in the coming decade
That process is arguably already under way, with Gorica an increasingly popular option for backpackers, but for the moment the neighbourhood remains a quiet, slightly ruffled place to spend a few hours.
You can easily reach it on foot via either one of the two Berat bridges that link it with Mangalem: the modern Ura e Varur bridge or the landmark arches of the Gorica bridge on the other side. Each has some nice photo spots, so we suggest going one way and coming back on the other.
Gorica doesn't have a great number of standout sights - being a place more of atmosphere and aesthetics, but within the former Christian quarter, you'll find the Orthodox Church of Saint Spiridon (maps) and the recently restored House of Stavri Duhanxhiu (which Game of Thrones may or may not have drawn inspiration).
Walk toward the pretty Gorica Bridge (maps), and you'll find a few small groceries and a very local cafe to have a coffee or beer break, and a little further beyond is the popular Eni Traditional Food restaurant (maps) for a plate of stuffed aubergine or peppers.
Another good spot for a drink or no-frills meal is Lorenc Secret Garden (maps). This restaurant bar and guesthouse tucked away in the family garden, serves traditional food, drinks, homemade wine, and sometimes offers live music from the owner (Lorenc) or others.
Berat Backpackers and Maya Hostel are two popular accommodation options in Gorica, and we’ve shared more accommodation recommendations for the town in our ‘Where To Stay’ section later in the post.
Travel Tip // We saw a few castle ruins and viewpoints walks listed in Gorica, with one sign pointing up from Sheshi Alfred Xhimitiku street, but information was quite unreliable and we didn't go out of our way to personally investigate (because wine). Do let us know if you do any of the Berat walks and recommend or not!
Go Wine Tasting in Berat
The wine scene in Albania is burgeoning, and Berat is at the heart of it all.
With several 'kantinas', family wineries, and vineyards a short drive outside town, if you didn't already know about Albanian wine, then you certainly will by the time you've left!
We made time to visit two in a single afternoon and, whilst the most recommended venue was a let down, thankfully the other offered a much better setting and service. Both could have improvements, as they weren't necessarily the wine tasting experience nor vineyard visit we pictured in our heads (have done elsewhere in Europe), so it is important to set expectations accordingly and make it more about the wine.
There are three main Berat wine tasting options.
Nurellari Winery Cellar
This place was much-recommended, so we booked the three-glass tasting for €15 per person, with a food board included. All tastings must be booked in advance of arrival via their website, and they have several signs stating that you cannot just show up without a prior reservation.
The building is very modern, and the dark upstairs tastings room didn't led itself to an ambience or the brief 'experience', but there was also no introduction to the winery and first pour. Maybe we got them on a bad day, but it jarred a lot.
They also offer enhanced 6-wine tastings for €27 and 3-wine premium tastings €31 per person, as well as guided visits to their vineyards and cellars, and perhaps those result in more effort. On the plus side, the food board was generously laden (but you have to pay extra for water to accompany your tasting...).
Based on our personal experience, it's really difficult to recommend Nurellari as a must-do activity in Berat. Find them here on Google Maps.
Pupa Winery & GuestHouse
The young waiter told us they had gone from a 'small family winery' to a 'quite big family winery' in the last decade, with their new countryside complex being the result.
Only opened in the last year or so just up the hill from Nurellari, we had a much better experience at Pupa and preferred their wine too (even buying a couple of bottles). The tasting room and restaurant is bright and reflective of Berat's architecture, despite the modern build. The overall ambience and service during the tasting was very welcoming too, and we were also given a quick tour of the cellars and tanks before we left. The winery also offers tastings in their gardens when it's not super hot, which would be a very pleasant spot.
You can find Pupa Winery here on Google Maps, tastings are €15 per person for three different wines, a raki drink, and some antipasti/snacks. You can show up or enquire via their website.
They also have a guesthouse on site, which may suit visitors looking for a more relaxing stay in Berat.
Çobo Winery / Kantina Çobo
This is third option for wine tasting in Berat, and which we unfortunately only found out about when we drove past it on the next leg of our Albanian road trip.
They offer a free tour, as well as two wine tasting packages: €18 per person for four wines plus finger foods, or €35 person for several of their premium wines plus finger foods. Two travellers we met a few days later raved about the experience, so we do regret not heading over there. Advance reservations are not required, but we'd suggest it's not a bad idea to e-mail them anyway.
This is their website, and you can find them here on Google Maps
Plan | The wineries are a 20-minute drive in either direction from Berat, and will be easiest to reach by rental car or taxi. On our Albanian road trip, Andrew took the hit and was our very responsible designated driver when visiting the vineyards.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, or none of your group wants to miss out on a tasting, consider joining this popular half-day tour which visits one of the local wineries and includes a tasting.
If you can’t get out to them, note that the Solidarity Shop Berat (maps) has one of the best local wine lists in town, serving by the glass as well as offering tastings for €10-13 per person, with profits supporting vulnerable groups.
Visit The Onufri Iconography Museum
Over several summers in Italy and months in Latin America, we became slightly besotted with the 'religious icon' style of art and, until we realised the prices for any original, have always been on the lookout for one which we can afford. The closest we came was a young artist in Siena who had a small atelier by the Duomo, played Bruce Springsteen, and still did things the traditional way.
It was still out of reach though.
Unexpectedly, it was in Berat where we realised our fixation was more than just a passing phase, and we found the tiny handpainted icon which today hangs brightly in a darkened corner of our 'snug'.
It is not simply our personal passion for iconography that makes the Onufri Museum (Muzeu Kombëtar Ikonografik Onufri), the most important thing to do in Berat. Housed within an 18th century cathedral in a country that outlawed religion in 1967 and demolished or converted many churches and mosques, it offers a visitor more of a window onto Albania's idiosyncratic history than, well, the more famous windows.
It's a minor miracle that the building survived, due largely to the fact that it was declared a National Monument of Culture in 1948.
Named after Albania's great icon painter, the Onufri Museum brings together 200 artworks from several churches and monasteries. Within the peaceful body of the small cathedral on the lower level, you'll find several icons in their original settings, as well as the incredible carved iconostasis - a masterpiece which it's worth taking your time to admire from the pews.
On the second floor, it's more of a standard gallery setting, with the lighting and neutral backgrounds showcasing the resplendent colours and intricate detail of the form. Each work is numbered, and the colourful and modernist-looking perspectives of #18 'Jesus in the Temple' is one of the key works by Onufri and originally was displayed in Berat Castle.
Tickets | Entry is 400 lek for adults,120 lek for students and children aged 13-18, free for under 13s. Whilst that is a little more than some visitors expect, we encourage you to pay the extra 100 lek for the 90-minute audio guide which brings out much of the symbolism, colour codes, and skill behind various icons.
Where + When | The Muzeu Kombëtar Ikonografik Onufri is in the Berat Castle neighbourhood (maps) and open every day from 9am-6pm in summer (1st May to 30th September). Hours shorten to 9am-4pm Tuesday to Saturday (2pm on Sundays) from 1st October to 30th April.
Know | There is a zero tolerance approach to photography and filming inside, so anyone arriving with camera equipment will be asked to leave it at reception (this is why you’ll not find any photos of the icons to accompany this section). No bags are permitted inside either.
We weren't aware of this when we arrived with our camera bag, but there thankfully are a dozen or so lockers for bags and valuables (you get the key). There is also a security guard posted there, but we recommend not taking up or leaving anything you'd be overly concerned about.
Lastly, there are some handpainted icons sold here but we bought our little handpainted Jesus icon from Adrial Art Studio down on Rruga Antipatrea street: it was by a local artist and cost about half the price.
Visit Kala & Berat Castle
If you follow our two-week Albania Itinerary, then you'll visit a number of impressive hilltop castles in various states of ruin or repair in Himarë, Shokodër, Gjiorkaster, and Kruje.
Berat's Castle, which looms over the city of windows, is a little bit different though.
A walk up the steep, slippy cobblestone road brings you not simply to hollowed out ruins and tour groups, but a thriving community settled within the old castle walls.
The story of Berat really begins up there on the hill too.
Built by the Illyrians, and then passed between the Romans, the Slavs, and the Byzantines, a majority of the town's population lived within the citadel. It was only after the arrival of the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century that Berat began to spill out and grow beyond the castle walls on both sides of the river.
And so, the neighbourhood known as Kala or Berat Castle is the final piece of the ‘three-part Berat' wanderings. Perched above the city, on the same side as the Mangalemi neighbourhood, it's quite indistinguishable where the homes, the Icon museum, and the handful of shops and restaurants end and the remnants of the old fortifications begin, with the two becoming intertwined over the centuries.
It's a small, quiet local's neighbourhood though, and the main reason to come up is to visit the Onufri Museum, wander the ruins and walls, and enjoy some of the best views onto the old and the new Berat.
The viewpoint (maps) is popular at sunset, but actually best done in the morning according to a local follower - and having followed his advice, we can confirm that the early morning views are glorious.
There are a few information boards and suggested walking itineraries (not very well-marked), with the Red Mosque, White Mosque and St. Theodore's Church being the main points of interest. There's also a massive stone head, but we couldn't find it!
There are a couple of restaurants, and a small cafe within the ruins, so you can easily enjoy a couple of hours or longer up here if the weather is pleasant. There’s also a very well-regarded Albanian cooking class held up there - find out more
Important Note // Several other travel guides separate out the various ruins found within Kala in their ‘things to do in Berat’ posts, but we find this a little disingenuous as the majority of these attractions really are just ruins, and should be considered as various things to keep an eye out for when exploring the Berat Castle area rather than standalone activities.
Where | Find Berat Castle here on Google Maps
You can walk or drive up the very steep, smoothed out narrow cobblestone road and - if you can choose between the two - we'd recommend walking. Give yourself about 10 minutes, and try to avoid doing it during peak heat. When you near the top of the road, branch left to take the pedestrian walkway for the final part.
If you do go up with the car, it's a 10% incline so stay in first gear nearly all the way up, go slow, be aware of pedestrians on both sides, and be prepared to do a hill start or two if it all goes tits up. It's not fun if you meet a car coming down the other way, but there is just enough room to pass on most of the road if you're both confident drivers.
Note, you can also bypass this steep cobblestone road and driving through the centre of Berat if you arrive at the Castle via the much easier Rruga Muzak Topia road (maps).
The easiest place to park is near the roundabout (maps), or continue further up to the castle entrance where there’s some parking on the dust just before the portico (maps). You can continue through it into the castle walls where there’s space for another six or seven vehicles - it's often full but will be the best option for anyone with mobility issues (although the area isn’t really wheelchair-friendly).
A Xhiro Along Bulevardi Republika
The 'Xhiro' is a lovely Albanian tradition. Similar to the Italian passeggiata, families, lovers, and groups of friends will take to the streets in the early evening for a stroll and some social time, and the traveller's role is to simply join, observe, and enjoy.
After the worst of the summer day’s heat has subsided, groups of young and old venture out beyond the shadows to enjoy the xhiro on Bulevardi Republika, a tree-lined boulevard in the Mangalemi neighbourhood.
You’ll find the old boys playing chess, backgammon, and dominoes in large groups (with even larger arguments) in the park, whilst teens hang out on their phones and others frequent the trendier bars lining the other side of the boulevard.
This is actually the most atmospheric area to wander around and have an evening drink, rather than on the rooftop bars across or along the river, and a good alternative option to find dinner if you're not drawn in by anywhere else (though the range actually wasn't that great for us).
Travel Tip // During our summer visit, we learned that kayaking in the nearby Osumi Canyon and Tomor Lake is a popular activity in Berat. However, it’s seasonal and very dependent on water levels - February to June are considered the best months, whilst it was way too low when we were there in July. If you’re interested in finding out more, check out the following highly-rated tours:
· The Rafting in Osumi Canyons Experience
The Ethnographic & Solmon Museums
A common theme during our two-week adventure in Albania was trying to visit each town’s Ethnographic Museum, only to find that most of them were shut.
That was the case in Berat, which was a bit of a shame. It’s set within one of the typical two-storey houses, and will likely give you insight into Berat’s history, traditions, and culture. Entry is 300 lek for adults, free for under 12s, and it should be open 9am-6pm every day May 1st to September 30th.
You can find more information on the museum’s website.
The tiny Solomon Museum was however open, and we learned a lot there. It recounts the lives of the six hundred Jewish people that sought sanctuary in Berat during the Holocaust. They arrived from a variety of European countries, and were sheltered by both Christian and Muslim families in Berat, with this being the only Nazi-occupied place where the Jewish population increased in the Second World War.
Many of the refugees eventually went to Israel and America, but the small display here commemorates a significant moment of inter-religious understanding in a small town in Albania - which actually has a track record for this stemming from several centuries before.
The Solomon Museum was free to enter, but there is a donation box. The very kind lady who staffed it didn’t speak much English, but was keen to answer our questions - via Google Translate - and show us around.
It’s open 9.30am-4.30pm, only take 10-15 minutes, and you can find it here on Google Maps.
Where To Stay in Berat
As Berat is actually quite compact, it won’t make a huge difference within which of the three main historic areas - Mangalemi, Gorica, or Berat Castle - you choose to stay.
The main consideration is accessibility for less mobile travellers and those with a rental car, as many of the older cobbled streets are not either pedestrianised, inaccessible for non-residents or so narrow that you shouldn’t even attempt it. Parking is also an issue across Berat and, because we’re dull, we’ve got more detail to help you out at the bottom of the post.
Rule of thumb though: Mangalemi is the most established and you’ll have more on your doorstep, Gorica has the best options for backpackers, whilst Berat Castle/Kala is more isolated but offers splendid views and a small village vibe.
You will also find a number of options in the ‘new town’, which although a 20-minute walk from the old town neighbourhoods, may be a better option if you’re anxious about driving into Berat or parking your vehicle.
We’ve shared our top picks for you, with something to suit every budget and travel style:
Mangalemi
Hotel Osumi | The family-run hotel is in a great location, the hosts are really friendly and welcoming, rooms wonderful and the breakfast excellent. We honest couldn’t recommend them highly enough after our stay - note that they have two buildings on the same street.
Hotel Rezidenca Desaret | If you’re looking for a central Mangalemi hotel, but you prefer modern decor and facilities over traditional details, we highly recommend taking a look at this hotel. The reviews are plentiful and excellent - particularly for the rooms with a balcony overlooking the city.
Hotel Ansel | Located in a fantastic spot in front of the river, this hotel offers traditional rooms that are full of character, comfortable and clean. Previous guests speak very highly of the helpful staff and the fantastic breakfast. The on-site restaurant is also excellent and offers wonderful views over to Gorica.
Other popular and highly-rated hotels and guesthouses in the Mangalemi area include Beratino Hotel, Hani I Xheblatit, and Bujtina Kodiket Guesthouse.
Tomor Shehu Guest House is a good budget option.
Gorica
Berat Backpackers | The first hostel in Berat and the second in all of Albania, the charming Berat Backpackers is located within a 300-year-old house UNESCO protected building and offers beautifully presented private rooms and dorms. The offer a guest kitchen, a tranquil garden area, and a free daily breakfast.
Another popular hostel to consider is the highly-rated Maya Hostel.
Amalia Boutique Hotel | Small family-run hotel within a historic building which has been refurbished and decorated to create light, bright modern and comfortable rooms. Excellent breakfast included, alongside free wine and raki tasting, plus private parking nearby for €2 per day.
Tradita e Beratit | This lovely hotel underwent a full renovation a few years ago and offers excellent rooms with modern comforts without sacrificing any of the wonderful traditional features. There’s also an on-site restaurant and a gorgeous outdoor terrace area.
Other excellent hotels to take a look at include Anhel Hotel, Koroni Boutique Hotel, Hotel Kapllani, N'Gorice, and Koroni Boutique Hotel.
Berat Castle
As one might expect, there are far fewer accommodation options in this area, with one hotel in particular standing out - Berati Castle Hotel. Located within the castle walls, this historic hotel offers comfortable rooms filled with original features, and there’s a good on-site restaurant. It has hundreds and hundreds of excellent reviews, and for road trippers, comes with easy to access free parking.
Other good options include Hotel Klea, KRIS Guesthouse and Hotel Kalaja.
New Town
Hotel Colombo is often touted as Berat’s most luxurious hotel, but it looks a little tired recent guests have not been impressed with their stay, noting that facilities and decor fall foul of the lofty 5* rating. By all means take a look, but we wouldn’t stay there.
Hotel Orestiada | Whilst aesthetically speaking this family-run hotel is fairly average, it is one of the most popular in the new town. It offers comfortable and clean rooms plus a traditional breakfast, is well-located for access to the old town, and has free and secure parking.
Other similar hotels and guesthouses to consider in this area are Vila Lili, Merkaj Hotel, Hotel Vila Mimani and Villa Tabaku.
Where To Eat & Drink in Berat
There are several rooftop restaurants on both side of the Osum river where one can dine or drink with a classic view of Berat. The main cuisines on offer are traditional Albanian, whilst there are a few pizza/pasta places and fast food joints. If in doubt, you’ll always find somewhere on Bulevardi Republika and Rruga Antipatrea, but the latter can become quite unpleasantly clogged up in the evening.
A places we enjoyed, that caught our eye, or followers recommended are:
Homemade Food Lili | Everyone positively raves about the food and atmosphere at this place, and it’s probably now the most popular restaurant in Berat with visitors. Dozens of followers recommended it to us too, but it was totally booked out for our dates. As we didn’t personally go, we can’t tel you whether it’s actually now a little tourist-trappy or not, but it should 100% on your radar.
Dinners only, closed Mondays. Making a reservation is recommended, and the WhatsApp number is +355692349362. Lili is the husband and host by the way!
Solidarity Shop Berat | This small social enterprise cafe and shop opposite the Gate of the Pasha is absolutely one to stop by and support. It offers unique souvenirs, handicrafts, and locally sourced jams, raki, olive oil and honey. Income supports vulnerable members of society, with several products made by them. Solidarity also has one of the best local wine lists in town, serving by the glass as well as offering tastings for €10-13 per person.
Our Late Night Food Stop (can’t remember the name we’re afraid) | Next door to Lundra (maps). Cold bottles of Korca, feta + olive salad, and the best aubergine dish we had in Albania.
Friendly House | A popular restaurant tucked away in Mangalem, it’s got a quirky traditional aesthetic and a terrace with good views.
If in doubt, consider The White House (maps) for a quick pasta, salad, and grilled vegetables.
Eni Traditional Food | A highly-rated and much recommended option in Gorica, open for lunch and dinner.
Bazar Bar Berat | One of the best options for cocktails in town.
Panoramic Bars | We didn't head over to them, but two rooftop bars lit up at night always looked popular over in Gorica. We think they were Bar Restorant Ajka (maps) and the 360° Terrace Lounge (maps)
If you have a particular standout favourite in Berat, do let us know in the comments!
How To Get to Berat
From Tirana & Tirana Airport
Drive | It’s a 2 hour, 120km drive from Tirana Airport (along good roads, most of which is highway).
We recommend looking + booking your car hire via Rentalcars and AutoEurope - these are the two companies we use exclusively for all our car rentals around the world.
Taxi | An official taxi charges between €61 - 79
Bus | There are frequent buses to Berat from Tirana city centre, but you’ll need to make your own way to the station. These leave approximately every 30 minutes - from 5.40am to 5.30pm - cost 500 LEK per person, and offer a journey time of around two hours and 45 minutes.
By Tour | If you have only limited time in Albania but still want to see Berat, consider joining this highly-rated day tour from Tirana, which includes transport and a guided tour of all three historic Berat neighbourhoods plus entrance to the Onufri Museum- find out more here.
Alternatively, this day tour from Tirana combined Durres and Berat.
From Elsewhere in Albania
On our Albania road trip, we drove to Berat from the northern city of Shkodër (196km, 4 hours).
After our stay, we continued south from Berat to the coastal city of Himarë (183km,4 hours)
The drive between Gjirokaster and Berat is180 km (3-4 hours), but as the two UNESCO towns have a similar vibe and charm, you may wish to split them up rather than visit sequentially.
Whichever way you do it, make sure you give yourself enough time on the roads and try to avoid driving after dark.
For more advice & ideas, check out the following posts:
· Our Albania Road Trip Itinerary
· Essential Guide to Driving in Albania
Bus | There are two departures per day from Gjirokaster to Berat (8.30am and 3pm), and tickets cost 1000 LEK per person. Buses depart from Stacioni i Autobusave Gjirokastër - find it here on Google Maps.
There are currently no direct buses from Shkodër to Berat, so you would have to connect in Tirana and expect a journey time of 5-6 hours. From Himarë, you’re likely going to require a connection in Vlore or Fier - do let us know in the comments if you do the journey and any tips for other travellers!
Parking in Berat
We arrived in Berat late at night whilst some sort of event seemed to be wrapping up, and it took us half an hour to find a parking space near our guesthouse. It was the same the day we returned from the wine tastings, requiring several loops before we could find a spot.
So, if you’re on an Albanian road trip, be aware that most historic neighbourhood accommodations won't have private parking or many options right outside their door (despite what their booking.com listings may say). Further, some guesthouses in the three historic neighbourhoods are simply not accessible by car, so will require a bit of a walk up the cobbles with your suitcase from the parking spots you do find.
If you want to avoid that, it’s not a bad idea to choose accommodation which offers confirmed, designated private parking, but that may mean a compromise and staying somewhere in the new town.
If in doubt, we recommend contacting your accommodation before arrival to clarify your options and work out where to put in your GPS.
In terms free parking options we did find in the old town, this car park was free but often full (maps) and there is also free on-street parking there and along the river, but it’s similarly difficult to get a free space. In Gorica, this car park (maps) charges about €2/day and is in a convenient location.
Do note that there are a few one-way streets, which will require you to do a loop if you aren’t lucky enough to find a space first time round. Traffic can also get quite clogged.
There were lots more free street parking spots by the park on Shetitorja Osumi street (maps), as well as two larg parking lots for vehicles and camper vans (maps): these may be the best option for anyone simply visiting Berat for the day and not wishing to waste time hunting for a space.
As mentioned, the castle neighbourhood actually has quite a bit more parking, and is ironically going to be much easier to access and park than the other two neighbourhoods. If you’re staying there you may be able to park right outside your accommodation as well (again, double check before arrival). We wouldn’t want to drive up and down the old cobble road any more than necessary though, so be aware than when leaving the castle, you don’t have to drive back down into Berat, but can instead take a different exit at the roundabout and get on the highway + to the vineyards or your next stop much sooner. This also means you can arrive into the castle without driving through Berat and up that cobblestone road!
If you find a good parking option in the old town, make sure to share in the comments so we can help other travellers like you!
Travel Tip // Before you decide to rent or road trip in Albania, make sure to read our main post full of advice: The Essential Guide To Driving in Albania
