Planning a trip to the Greek island of Donoussa? Our travel guide’s got you covered.

A trip to Donoussa is as uncomplicated and unhurried as it gets.

A speck of an island in the Aegean Sea, it has more cats than permanent residents and at times it feels that the long-haired goats are contemplating a coup.

If you zoom out too much on Google Maps, it actually disappears - and that’s sort of what the traveller comes here to do as well.

With just one village to speak of and a dozen or so family-run restaurants scattered on its southern side, most days are shaped by three simple choices:

· which beach to go to

· how many clothes you’ll eventually take off there

· whether to eat at this or that place in the evening

And the most wonderful thing, is that any decision is the right one.

Part of the Small Cyclades, this mountainous island to the east of Naxos and north of Amorgos takes up only five square miles, making it smaller than some international airports. Low-key, hippy-ish in parts, and blissfully devoid of mass tourism, one's shoulders loosen within hours of stepping off the ferry.

This is a quiet place to travel slow.

In the early morning, the silver-haired old boys drink freddo espresso at the waterfront cafe, where the tables are dressed in checked cloth and a bright blue tarpaulin sheet blocks out the rising sun. In the village, cactus patches and prickly pears grow against Cycladic whitewash, and every street leads down to the sea.

There’s only a single proper road, curving around the coast and linking the south to the cluster of homes and wild beaches on the north, and the island is as close to traffic and noise-free as one could hope save for birdsong, a stray cockerel screeching, and the chug of a departing ferry.

The crowds of Mykonos or Santorini feel like they’re on the other side of the world.

In our travel guide, we’ve shared everything you to know to decide whether it’s the right Greek island for your travel style, and plan your visit. From the best things to do in Dounssa and our pick of the best beaches, to recommendations on restaurants and accommodation, you’ll know exactly how to spend your blissful days there.

We’ve also shared practical advice on how to get around the island and travel better tips to make the most of your stay.

This is our guide to Donoussa.

The Donoussa Essentials

What / One of the Small Cyclades islands
Explore / On foot, by boat, bus or scooter
Relax / At any one of the gorgeous beaches - our favourites are Kalotaritissa and Livadi
Eat / Down at the outrageously good Kedros Beach Bar
Wander / The village of Stavros
Stay / Agave Boutique Hotel, Petalides Residences or Windmill House
Plan / How to get to Donoussa

The Best Things To Do In Donoussa

A Day At Kedros Beach

This is the most popular beach in Donoussa, and also the place to enjoy some of the best food on the island: it is pitch perfect for a long, lazy day under the sun.

And the water is divine. No waves or surge, and not a single bit of rubbish, rock, or seaweed beneath the blue. The visibility is also astonishing.

Two points point to note though:

Kedros beach will be more crowded the closer you get to peak season for Greek & European tourism, and so may at times become a little further from that rustic Donoussa vibe in comparison to the more secluded coves and bays further north.
It was never at unpleasant or uncomfortable levels on the two occasions we were there though.
Non-nudists and nudists share the long, sandy beach. So far, so Greek island. However, it’s worth bearing in mind that there is full nudity all across the beach, rather than clustered in one section, and that mix at such a popular, family-friendly beach can be a bit discombobulating if you’re not used to it.

What really sets Kedros apart though is the presence of Kedros Beach Bar, just a few steps beyond the drystone wall that runs behind the beach.

From the soundtrack of American jazz to the open-sided architecture, everything is considered and well thought out, without straying into the realm of pretentiousness or exclusivity. Their menu is based around refined versions of traditional dishes, with many ingredients locally sourced or from their own garden (depending on the intervention of rain and goats), and we actually returned to the beach for the second time just so we could eat here.

It was our best meal on the island, and one of the best from the whole Greek island-hopping trip.

So, whether you come to Kedros beach once or a few times, make sure to also make pair it with a late lunch or early dinner there (the bartender makes a decent Campari Spritz too).

Where | You can find Kedros Beach here on Google Maps

Go | Most people walk to and from the beach along the main road from Stavros; this takes about 15-20 minutes depending on where you start from and how late in the day you set off. If walking, take the entrance for the stone steps on the right side of the main road, just after the goat field (maps). It’s a steep walk down, but will be manageable for most.

The island bus stops at the top of the road, and the daily shuttle boat from Stavros also drops off at Kedros, and we’ve shared more details on these in the ‘How To Get Around Donoussa’ section at the end of the post.

If you have a rental scooter, just keep going along the main road, round the bend, and turn right down the dirt path here.

Know | The left side of the beach gets the last of the sun, with the right side in shadow first, so choose accordingly if you turn up in the late afternoon.

Bring | There are no deckchairs or beach clubs available of for rent, so bring whatever you need for shade and to lay on. The only facilities are at the beach bar, so it’s a good idea to bring some snacks or drinks with you if on a budget.

Hang Out In Stavros

All trips to Donoussa begin and end in Stavros.

The majority of the island’s accommodation, restaurants, and amenities are concentrated here in the only village and ferry port, and it will bookend most traveller’s days.

A compact cluster of whitewashed streets and homes in that classic Cyclades architectural style, it manages to straddle being a place where a tight knit community live and work, as well as a summer holiday hub. This sense is most special in the mornings at the two cafes by the port, and the in early evening when locals and visitors congregate in the soft light.

It only takes half an hour or so to explore all of it, and it’ll soon feel like a home away from home once you tap in to the rhythms of small island life.

Most places to eat and drink in Donoussa are found in Stavros, and we’ve covered a few of our favourites below:

The Bakery | After visiting several others on this Greek Island trip, we now appreciate just how good this was - and its popularity in the morning isn't simply because it's the only one on the island. Spinach pies, sun-dried tomato and feta pides, fresh bread, and a vey friendly English-speaking lady who will take you through all the options if it's not too busy, you should not feel guilty about getting your beach snacks or breakfast here on more than one morning (open from 7am).

Enalia | Our regular go-to for freddo espresso and the occasional breakfast. In the evenings, it becomes the main bar/social club/ ice-cream place.

To Kyma | A special place, this is a very Greek, very old school family-run general store and restaurant/cafe/social club/community centre on the port. The red and white hand-painted numbers, blue checkerboard tablecloths and straight-backed small wooden chairs is as authentic as it is aesthetic, and it’s very popular with the old boys in the early mornings and evening. The dark wood general store sells a wonderfully random mix of items, and it’s also the only place open for a coffee or simple breakfast if you’re catching the early morning ferry, but you do have to factor in extra time for the service. We didn't eat at the restaurant - which has mixed reviews- but it will tick lots of boxes for atmosphere and individuality.

Nautilus | Little boutique with clothes, beach things, and a book store

We’ve shared the best place grab a sunset drink or dinner in Stavros, as well as a few other recommendation for dinner, later in the guide.

Travel Tip // The small sandy beach of Stavros is non-nudist, very family-friendly and the most accessible on the island. Whilst it is perfectly pleasant, and a good option to have right on your doorstep, if you've only got 1-3 days on the island, we'd suggest your time is best spent focussing on the other Donoussa beaches we've mentioned above and below.

Support The Donoussa Cat Project

When we said that this island has more cats than residents, we weren't exaggerating.

The last census* puts permanent human residents at 213, with permanent feline ones around 300.

As you wander around the pretty streets of Stavros, it doesn’t take long to think that that may actually be an underestimate.

There’s a decent chance you’ll end up with a kitty adopting you and the outside (or inside) of your room or apartment, and that’s how ended up with a lovely - albeit scruffy and snuffly - pet for a few days: this ultimately ended up being four pets by the final day once word spread of our canned sardine supply.

And this is where ‘The Donoussa Cat Project’ comes in.

Although it would have been an excellent name for a 1970s prog-rock band, this private organisation is all about pussy of a different variety. Started in 2016, their programme means 90% of the cat population are now sterilised, and they do a lot to feed and keep the cats healthy throughout the year. With no vet on the island, they also help injured or sick ones have treatment over on Naxos (or even Athens).

We first learned of the Project when seeing a little collection tin and their cool canvas bags for sale, and then a poster or two around the village. We bought one of the bags for €10, and you can find them and donation tins in Stavros at the mini-market, the small grocery store, and probably a couple of other places (cash only).

The organisation doesn’t receive any other funds, so donations are essential to their works.

They recommend not feeding cats in rooms or restaurants (no matter how persistent or adorably they ask), but rather doing it outside responsibly and leaving out some fresh water for them too.

Most importantly, they also endorse giving them fuss (if you can find one that’s in mood for it).

*the official census obviously did not include cats - how on earth could they fill in the form? These are the charity’s own numbers.

Visit The Northern Beaches Of Kalotaritissa

Ten minutes after we drove down the hill and around the final bend that leads down to Kalotaritissa, the predominant feeling was that we'd somehow cracked the code of a life well lived.

Emily had read that this was the second largest village on the island, so we’d expected to spend a short while wandering around whitewash streets before settling in at one of the trio of beaches.

Then we realised that a village on Donoussa means just a small cluster of buildings and not much else, so we lost no time in laying our towels down on the small pebbles of the eponymous beach and having a perfect morning of doing nothing but swimming and sleeping under the sun.

Here in the north of the island, the slight sense of a holiday vibe that both Stavros and Kedros deliver fades away, and one is left with the serene isolation between the peaks. As it requires an extra 20 or so minutes on the bus than Kedros - or renting your own scooter for the day to head up there - Kalotaritissa is always much less busy, and was virtually empty the two days we spent there. There are even two smaller enclaves to the left and the right if you wish to have even more seclusion!

The water - deep, turquoise, clear, cool and clean - was amongst the best and most joyous we've ever swum in.

One can choose from three areas within the bay:

· the first - a small beach of grey pebbles which we don't actually know the name of - is found and accessed from the right hand side of the road you drive in on. Find it here on Google Maps.

· Kalotaritissa beach (Google Maps), which is the most visited and easiest to access of the three. From the parking and bus stop on the dusty road above, it’s just a few steps down. The beach is relatively sheltered from the northerly winds in comparison to the others, and nudism is prohibited.

· Tripiti Beach (Google Maps) is reached on foot via a goat trail running to the left of Kalotaritissa beach, and takes about 10 minutes to arrive upon. This small, secluded nudist-friendly beach has a blend of fine and coarse sand.

There are also many little rocky spots that you could make use of on both sides of this bay, or use as alternative swimming entry points.

Go | As the shuttle boat from Stavros doesn’t arrive here, it’s left to those who hike, take the bus, or rent their own wheels.

It’s 30-minutes by bus from the port, whilst if the conditions are suitable, walkers can follow Route #1 via Papas Peak (4.4km, 90 minutes)

If driving a scooter up here, do take care on the sharper bends and anticipate the impact of the wind.

Know | There are no facilities or shops on any of the three northernmost beaches, so you need to bring your own towels, parasols, beach tents etc.

For drinks or food, the only option is the excellent Taverna Mitsos -a perfect little family-run restaurant just a short walk from Kalotaritissa beach. Its blue and white terrace offers welcome shade, its small plant-filled garden offers fragrance, and the traditional menu offers sustenance. The menu changes according to what is available, and we recommend you jump on the ‘aubergine in oven with onions and tomato sauce’ if it’s on.

The taverna and atmosphere was so pleasant and welcoming that we suggest a late lunch there over bringing snacks, and they also sell cold drinks to take away - find it here on Google Maps

Stay | There are only a handful of accommodations here in Kalotaritissa, including the new Phisis Nature Retreat. There would be pros and cons to stay on this part of the island, so for more recommendations on where to base yourself and our top accommodation picks, make sure to read our ‘Where To Stay’ section later in the post.

Go Nude At Livadi Beach

It’s a rite of passage for many to go nude for the first time on a Greek beach, but some of you may be travelling to Donoussa precisely because getting your kit off at the beach is second nature.

For the novice or the nudist, there are few better places to let it all hang out than Livadi Beach.

With soft white sand, calm waters, and a rock-free sea bed, this long sheltered beach is a natural, untouched paradise. Historically difficult to access, with no facilities or development on or around it in the valley, Livadi is an iconic place for the young Greek wild campers who arrive on the islands with their backpacks and tents in summer for weeks or months.

This, along with its nudist-friendly reputation and isolation, gives Livadi a very chilled, very hippy castaway vibe. According to locals and regulars, it is busier than it used to be because of the shuttle boat dropping people off, but it still remains far less visited than Kedros.

We could have swum in its refreshing, deep blue waters for hours and hours, and for some travellers this may become their favourite beach on Donoussa.

Where | You can find Livadi Beach here on Google Maps

Go | You can arrive and leave by bus, walking, shuttle boat, or a combination of the three.

By bus, get off at the stop for Mersini and walk down the side road toward little clifftop church (Google Maps). This is also the place to head for if you’ve rented a scooter, but note that it’s a sharp turn off the main road when travelling from the north.

You can park up here, but be warned that it can be very very windswept: if with a scooter, make sure it's on the full dual kickstand rather than the side one, and even consider taking it further down toward Fragosyko Donousa restaurant so that it's more sheltered and less likely to get blown over.

From the church, go left downhill on a painted paved path, down a new rock staircase, and you'll see a wooden sign pointing right for Livadi, left for a spring. Go right, passing through an old gate, and you’ll take a rough and uneven path. It can be a bit slippy in parts, but possible to do in sandals and shouldn't pose too many problems (this section is also part of the #3 hiking route).

From the church down to the beach, it’s about a 20 minute walk - and make sure to stop by the viewpoint overlooking both Livadi and little Fykio beach before you head down to the sand.

Note that the way back up along the same trail is more tiring and challenging, with no shade available. We recommend that you take it slow and do not make it overly strenuous, factoring in plenty of time (about 30 minutes) to make it up comfortably to the road before the next bus passes.

The easier option to arrive on Livadi Beach is with the daily shuttle boat from Stavros - we’ve included full details on that in the ‘How To Get Around Donoussa’ section. Note that it may not be a bad idea to bus + walk in, then catch the boat back to Stavros, as the walk up in the heat after a relaxing beach day sort of takes away some of the joy.

Bring | There are no facilities on or near Livadi Beach, so you should take everything you'll need for the day. However, at the top where you'll park, there's the little Fragosyko Donousa restaurant (Google Maps). We didn't eat here, but it looked ok, with a traditional menu and nice shaded terrace with expansive sea view. It may become a mandatory stop if you're in need of some shade + hydration after the walk back up from the beach!

Know | On the way down the rocky path to Livadi, you can choose to turn left at the signpost and end up at little Fykio beach (Google Maps) There were a couple of people on it, but Fykios is one for those looking for complete seclusion or isolation.

Also, it’s not obligatory to go nude on either beach!

Go Hiking in Donoussa

When looked at from the ferry, Donoussa is really just a series of mountain peaks above the sea.

Wild, rugged, and unspoilt, it’s no surprise that much is still connected by old goat and farmer trails, and ripe for exploration on two feet.

Long-time readers of Along Dusty Roads or those who follow us on Instagram will know that we’re big hikers. However, as we arrived in Greece just a few weeks after completing the 250km Rota Vicentina along the coast of Portugal, we decided that our time on the Small Cyclades would be more about tanning than trails.

It was also way too hot in early July to be out exerting ourselves too much.

If the temperatures and conditions are right though, then you should absolutely consider getting out on a couple of the five well-established trails. Indeed, if you’re on the island before June or after September, it would become a must-do activity.

The official Donoussa hiking trails are below, and from the sections of #1, #2 and #3 that we unintentionally walked on and passed by, they appear well signposted and marked.

Route #1 | Kampos (Stavros) - Papas Peak - Kalotaritissa | 4.4km | 90 minutes one-way

Route #2 | Kampos (Stavros) - Kedros - Messaria | 1.1km | 30 minutes one-way

Route #3 | Messaria - Mersini - Spring - Livadi | 2.8km | 60 minutes one-way

Route #4 | Kedros - Kate Milos - Vathy Limenari | 2km | 45 minutes one-way

Route #5 | Kampos (Stavros) - Limni - Aspros Kavos | 2.1 km | 40 minutes one-way

As you’ll see, several will bring you to or from the best beaches in Donoussa.

The trails can be done in reverse, or you can opt to use them as a means to get to a beach for a few hours before taking the bus or boat back.

Note that Papas Peak (Google Maps) is the highest point of Donoussa at 383 metres, and you can choose to just follow Route #1 from Stavros to the Peak (50 minutes), or go straight from Kalotaritissa to the summit.

To find more information on the trails and read recent reviews, check out the Donoussa page on AllTrails.

Whether hiking in or out of summer, always tell someone of your plans and make sure you prepare accordingly for the conditions, terrain, and your abilities. It’s always best to start early and avoid hiking during the peak sunshine heat hours.

Top Tip // If you’re a runner, check out the Donoussa Trail Running event, which takes place in late October.

Where To Stay In Donoussa

Almost everyone will end up staying in or near Stavros village.

This makes sense for logistics and convenience, with the majority of the island’s cafes, tavernas, and shops there, as well as transport connections. There are excellent options steps from the port and Stavros beach, set further back, and a growing number on the opposite side of the (not busy) main road, which require just a five minute walk down to the beach or port.

Beyond Stavros, there are a handful of accommodation options scattered across the rest of the island, but do be aware that staying outside of the main village will mean a much more isolated experience, with few options for eating out in the evening or groceries. If staying up there, you won't have any issues reaching the beaches further south by bus during the day, but the pain point will be the requirement to head into Stavros for supplies etc, which means it’s not a bad idea to consider renting a scooter for some or all of your stay.

There are no large modern hotels on Donoussa, with most accommodation comprising of simple traditional Cycladic apartments or houses. Most include pick-up + drop off at the port and are generally more affordable than what you’ll find on the more popular Greek islands.

Also, expect a cat (or four) to turn up at some point.

Before you get too excited though, be aware that there are a finite supply of rooms on Donoussa due to its inherent limitations. Availability can be very limited for the summer season when booking last minute so, for any island-hopping trips in June to August, you should look + book sooner rather than later once you know your dates.

We booked three weeks before our arrival, and were limited to just two or three basic apartments, but did get lucky with this Airbnb.

We recommend a stay of at least three nights, but if in slow holiday mood, you could happily spend six nights on the island.

Based on what we saw and further research, we’ve shared our choice of the best picks on Donoussa for every travel style + budget:

Agave Boutique Hotel Donousa | We spotted this brand new hotel on one of our walks to the beach and immediately knew it was right up our street! Beautifully designed, they nail a Mexican meets Greek island aesthetic, the honey-colour a nice change from the white wash of the Cyclades. Very few reviews currently, but we have no doubt it will prove very popular!

Iliovasilema Studios | Owned by the most entrepreneurial gentleman on Donoussa, these studios vary from simple and comfortable to pretty darn luxurious by the island's standards (although we're not sure how we feel about private hot tubs on an island that suffers serious water shortages in the summer).

Windmill House | Yep, how do you fancy spending a few nights in a traditional windmill? Tastefully converted, it's surprisingly spacious and has a charming veranda area from which to enjoy the views.

Our Airbnb | This budget-friendly house was one of only three accommodations available when we booked, and we didn't have terribly high hopes. Thankfully, it was much better than expected. A decent kitchen, good-sized living room and comfy bedroom. The decor is a quite outdated and someone is building another house in front of the balcony, but if you're looking for a property that won't break the bank this is a really good option. Plus, Maria - the owner - is utterly adorable (as it the cat that seems to think the house is home). You can find all Maria's listings here.

The Garden Studio is another really great value option.

Makares Apartments | Located a few minutes walk from the centre of Stavros (and therefore nice and quiet), this incredibly popular and highly-rated collection of apartments are tastefully decorated in a soothing colour palette, have lots of light and fantastic balconies overlooking the sea. A really fantastic option in Donoussa.

Petalides Residences | This collection of three brand new suites are just gorgeous. More luxurious than many option on the island, they are thoughtfully designed, decorated with a neutral palette and offer wonderful roof terraces with views of the Aegean Sea.

Dimitrakis Guesthouse | Whilst you would absolutely need your own scooter if you stayed here, this guesthouse high up in the hills in the centre of the island is utterly wonderful. The internal decor is just gorgeous, but what really makes this a standout property are the outdoor spaces with outstanding views across the island. Just beautiful.

If you’d like to stay in the north of the island, near Kalotaritissa Beach, you only really have two options - the new and quite fabulous Phisis Nature Retreat or the two-bedroom Vegera Beach House.

A few other apartments and suites that caught our eye are Markouli Studio, Cross Beach Studio, Astrofeggia, and Kampos Apartment.

Where To Eat & Drink

There are perhaps fewer than a dozen restaurants, cafes, and tavernas on Donoussa, mostly serving up fresh, locally-sourced dishes. Seafood features a lot, as does goat, and the ubiquitous Greek staples of feta, fava, big beans, tzatziki, olives, and salads.

We’ve already shared few of our favourites elsewhere in this guide, but wanted to mention a few more for your consideration.

Note that there aren’t really bars, cocktail places, or going out spots on Donoussa; it’s a quiet island and definitely not a party one. However, Kedros Beach Bar does have a few late night openings throughout summer for dinners and music events, so keep an eye out.

Enalia / The best freddo espresso and cappuccino you’ll find in Stavros, with decent breakfasts too (but nothing to get too excited about). It’s equally popular in the evenings as it becomes the main bar/social club/ice-cream place in a great spot by the beach and port. Service can either by quite grumpy or quite cheerful depending on who you get. Note that it only opens at 9am - find it here on Google Maps.

An alternative in the mornings for brunch and lunch is the nearby Yucca. It’s got a modern space, menu and a nice terrace overlooking the water, but we didn’t manage to eat there (Google Maps)

Iliovasilema Restaurant / On the left hand side of Stavros Bay, it’s the place to go for a sunset dinner with views of with the purple outline of Naxos across the velvet water. Due to this, tables on the outside are in high demand, so it’s not a bad idea to reserve or turn up early if you want a romantic spot. We turned up when everything was full, but the waiter magically get an another table set up outside for us before the sun fully set. Inside, basketball plays on the screen, a woman sits and peels potatoes in a red bucket, and the tables fill up with locals used to a thousand sunsets.

The food here is very traditional and good value too, but the sunset setting is what most come for- find it here on Google Maps

Avli Donoussa / We only found this on our last day on the island, and were gutted that we didn’t make it there. It seemed to be fancier dining out option than most in Stavros, with an elevated menu to accompany the einvlorment, so consider this as one for an occassion - find it here.

Captain George is also nearby, which is a more casual, affordable fish place for dinner overlooking the port (Google Maps), and if you just want something cheap, quick, and cheerful, then there’s a very popular little evening souvlaki place on the way down to Stavros beach (Google Maps) - but they don’t have any veggie/vegan alternatives.

Kedros Beach Bar / Located on Kedros Beach, this restaurant wouldn’t be out of place on one of the more popular islands - save for the very reasonable prices. Their menu is based around refined versions of traditional dishes, with many ingredients locally sourced or from their own garden, and provided us with the best meal we ate on the island.

To Kyma / A special place, this is a very Greek, very old school family-run general store and restaurant/cafe/social club/community centre on the port. The red and white hand-painted numbers, blue checkerboard tablecloths and straight-backed small wooden chairs is as authentic as it is aesthetic, and it’s very popular with the old boys in the early mornings and evening. The dark wood general store sells a wonderfully random mix of items, and it’s also the only place open for a coffee or simple breakfast if you’re catching the early morning ferry, but you do have to factor in extra time for the service. We didn't eat at the restaurant - which has mixed reviews- but will ticks lots of boxes atmosphere and individuality. Find it here on Google Maps

Taverna Mitsos / The only place to eat up in the northern part of the island, this family-run taverna offers well-priced Greek favourites (although they don’t, surprisingly offer that much fish). If you’re spending a few hours at Kalotaritissa Beach, it’s a great place to pop in for a few mezze dishes and a cold beer (or glass of wine).

If you’re cooking & eating in some evenings, which we did, then you will have to source most items from either the relatively well-stocked mini-market (Google Maps) and the small greengrocer nearby (Google Maps).

If you head out to the port about 9am some mornings, you can also try and buy some fresh fish from the boat.

How To Get Around Donoussa

The single main road in Donoussa runs 10km north along the coast from Stavros to Kalotaritissa, and it’s usually very, very empty.

Most people get around the island and reach its beaches on foot, by shuttle boat, or with the bus - and most of you will rely on a combination of the three.

It’s not necessary to bring a car and not possible to rent one, but a few scooters are available if you prefer having your own wheels.

Here’s what you need to know.

The Bus

If you’re planning on reaching the beaches beyond Stavros or the north of the island, this is the most popular option.

The 24-seater bus departs the port at 10am June to September, with increased departures during the July-August peak season. It stops at Kedros (5 minutes), Mesaria (10 minutes), Mersini (15 minutes), and Kalotaritissa (30 minutes), where it turns around to do the route in reverse.

On summer weekends and peak season, it’s a good idea to turn up 5-10 minutes before to increase your chances of getting a spot. You will see the timetable stuck up all over Stavros, but you can also see the latest version on the Donoussa Transfer website.

Pick-up points and stops are clearly marked along the road by blue and white signs, but can be difficult to find at first! Note that most beaches will still require a short walk from the stop.

The same company also offer private group transfers and a taxi service.

The Shuttle Boat

Alternatively, Skopelitis Tours runs a daily boats the port to two of the best beaches in Donoussa, as well as a less frequent one that stops at Fokospilia (the Seal Cave)*.

When we visited in early July, this was the daily schedule:

· 10am departure from the port to Kedros & Livadi

· 11.30am departure to Kedros, Livadi, and Fokospilia

· 14:30 departure to Kedros, Livadi, and Fokospilia

· 17:30 departure to Kedros & Livadi

However, we don’t suggest basing your plans around that as it’s subject to change and weather conditions. Instead, pop down to the pick-up point (here on Google Maps) where they have it written on a noticeboard.

It's a small boat which can only hold about 20 people, and does fill up, so it's best to turn up a bit earlier to ensure a spot on the morning departures. It also picks up passengers on the way back to the port from the beaches.

The ticket cost is €10-12 per person, but do let us know in the comments if that changes and we'll update the post!

Remember that Kedros is very easy to reach on foot from Stavros but, as Greeks tend to take lots with them to the beach, many chose to take the boat instead of having to carry it along the road.

The boat is definitely a more convenient option for reaching Livadi and necessary for Fokospilia; if you value flexibility, some of you may prefer to take the bus or walk out to Livadi, and only take the boat back to the port from the beach.

* It would be remiss of us not to mention that Fokospilia (the Seal Cave) is a popular activity on the island. The cave is only accessible by boat, and people go there to jump and swim in its clear waters, whilst there’s also meant to be some pretty coral. If we hadn’t gone scuba diving in Amorgos a few days earlier, then we probably would have done this, so please do let us know you experience + tips if you think it’s unmissable (or not)!

Walking

As covered above, you can also criss-cross the island and reach its beaches and settlements on foot via the five trails. We will often walk ridiculous distances to save money or enhance an experience, but the heat made this unfeasible during our time in Donoussa (except for the walk from our Airbnb to Kedros beach and then the short trail to Livadi).

If you do plan on walking around for more than that, please do prepare accordingly and judge the weather and conditions before setting out.

Scooter Rental

There’s no need to rent a car, and we aren’t sure it’s even possible on the island.

However, we did end up renting a scooter for two days so that we could get around on our own time rather than depending on the bus & boat timetable (and we both love riding in the warm Mediterranean air).

The only option was Iliovasilema Rentals - run by the guy who owns the restaurant and accommodation of the same name - which had a few new bikes for €30 per day. However, availability isn’t guaranteed and we had to wait a couple of hours before he knew if we could have it for one or two days, so we recommend getting in touch before your arrival if your heart is set on having a scooter.

The number is +30 694 2269 219, and they now have an office (maps)

The road is in decent condition and very quiet, but do note that there are some deceivingly tight turns and bends on the single road, so be cautious and keep your wits about you.

Donoussa Travel Tips

· The main tourism season runs from late May / early June to the end of September; July & August are the peak months. Some businesses may not be open outwith those summer months, as seasonal students works return to Athens and Thessaloniki, so do bear this in mind.

· The only ATM on the island, as far as we're aware, is the Piraeus Bank one next to the small grocery shop (here on Google Maps). It charged us a reasonable €2 withdrawal fee.

· Most businesses accept card payments but, due to the single ATM, it's a good idea to bring some back-up euros with you.

· We've covered inward and onward transport connections more in the short 'How To Get To Donoussa' post, but do be aware that the Small Cyclades ferry can leave a few minutes early - do NOT be late for it.

· Also, Donoussa is not served by daily ferries, so it’s best to plan out your accommodation dates based around the ferry schedule, rather than assuming there will be one available. We recommend looking + booking on FerryHopper or DirectFerries.

· Whether you're a nudist or not, please be respectful of those who are in the nuddie and their privacy (especially when it comes to taking photos of beaches or using your phone in those areas). Also note that Stavros beach specifically does not permit nudism.

· The northern Meltemi winds hit the Cyclades every summer, and can affect beach days and transport. Hopefully this won't impact your trip beyond the need to go Greek by obsessively tying and weighing down parasols and beach tents with ropes and rocks.