Whilst the country of magical realism is to the south of Panama, El Valle feels like it could have been conjured up by Gabriel Garcia Marquez.

A million or so years ago, in this quiet town of millionaires, a stratovolcano imploded, creating a deep void in the earth. In Central America, such a geological predicament is common and, like in Atitlan and Apoyo, water flowed in to fill the basin and create a great crater lake in the place that would become known as Panama.

Then, someone left the plug out.

Through a fissure or a fault line, the waters vanished and the lake slipped away.

From origins of fire and water, the land left behind in the void is thick with minerals, fostering life in a way few places can. It gave rise to dense forests, tangled vines, and delicate wild orchids, painting the valley in a thousand shades of green: in the gaps, the town of El Valle de Anton took root on the caldera floor.

Yet, when one is atop of the old volcano walls, it almost ceases to exist under the camouflage of a lush canopy that seeks to consume every trace of man.

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El Valle de Anton doesn't really feature on most Panama itineraries. This is partly due to how most people experience the country (either rushing through to Colombia or focussing on the islands), but also because most prioritise the better-known Boquete for outdoors adventures. Yet, for hikers and those with a green-tinged soul, the quiet town within the extinct volcano may end up as your surprise favourite, and somewhere that changes your entire impression of Panama in the best way possible.

A long-time favourite countryside retreat of the Panamanian elite, much of your time is spent hiking up, around, or back down the steep walls of the extinct volcano. There’s also an abundance of birdlife, biodiversity, flora, swimming holes, and it’s a serene, tropical environment where one can fill your lungs, muddy your boots, or head out on two wheels each day.

The fact that it's only a couple of hours drive from the skyscrapers of the capital also makes it a very sensible first stop on your way to the beaches of the Golfo de Azuero.

In this travel guide, we're going to share everything we think you need to know to plan the perfect stay in El Valle de Anton. From the best caldera hikes to prioritise and where to go for sunrise, we'll also cover the natural pools, the waterfalls, and a few things that may not be worth your time or money. There's also plenty practical and travel better tips, including recommendations on where to eat and stay in town.

This is our guide to El Valle de Antón, Panama.

Note // El Valle de Antón literally means 'The Valley of Anton', but it appears that nobody really knows who Antón was. Most people simply refer to El Valle (The Valley), but this can elicit blank stares at airport security and elsewhere in Panama.

El Valle | The Essentials

Where / Two to three hours from Panama City
Hike / Cerro La Silla, India Dormida and Cara Iguana
Swim / The natural pools of Chorro La Moza and Pozo Azul
See / The critically endangered Golden Frog
Visit / Mercado El Valle and the petroglyphs
Rent / A bicycle to get around the *caldera* and trails
Eat / A really good plate of pasta at La Divina Commedia
Drink / Beer at Ruta 71 & coffee at Kare
Nights / Three to four would be ideal
Stay / Blasina Hostel is where we stayed but Bodhi Hostel is the big backpacker favourite. The Golden Frog is a super popular guest house or, if you’d prefer an Airbnb, The Retreat is a great shout

The Best Things To Do in El Valle de Anton

Enjoy Sunrise at Cerro La Silla

We think there are two essentials for doing El Valle well: early alarms and hiking boots.

The former is essential for sunrise hikes and enjoying the environs with pleasant morning temperatures and beautiful light, before the heat becomes too intense for anything meaningful outside.

The latter is because, well, decent hiking boots are key to doing lots of what Panama and Central America does best. They’re a bit of kit we always recommend people pack for this part of the world to ensure every trail is open to you.

As will become clear quite quickly, El Valle should be viewed primarily as a walking & hiking destination. The most popular of these are along the ridges of the caldera rim - the walls of the old volcano - but it can be quite overwhelming in the research phase to work out which is best for your time, travel style, and fitness level. Most hikes also have the option to begin or end in several places, lengthen and shorten according to preference, and do this way or that way: whilst there pros to having such flexibility, it can lead to unnecessary confusion too.

What's crystal clear though is that almost all of you should try and prioritise setting the alarm early for a panoramic sunrise at Cerro La Silla.

Now, we aren't the sort of hikers / photographers / travellers that are obsessed with getting up at 5am so we can exclusively photograph things in the morning light. However, there are certain hikes and landscapes where it's a very good idea.

And, as the out-and-back 3.5km Cerro La Silla trail isn't actually that strenuous a walk from the entrance to the summit, it definitely falls into that category.

The only trouble is, for those without a rental car or a taxi, it does involve a decent walk in the dark from El Valle to reach the entrance. We've shared all the details on how to get to the summit for sunrise with public transport, by car, or on foot, in our main post: The Cerro La Silla Hike Guide

Thankfully, if you're really not an early riser or the weather gods are against you, it's perfectly possible (and much easier) to visit Cerro La Silla later in the day. Given the panoramic views though, we’d suggest heading up for sunset is going to be the next best option, rather than peak heat and brightness of 11am-3pm.

Where & When | The entrance and trailhead start for La Silla is here on Google Maps. The ticket hut is open from 6am - 6pm, but those arriving for sunrise have to get up there earlier and should face no issues.

Cost | $5 entry for foreigners, cash only at the entrance.

Travel Tip // Usually it’s the the fates against us, this time it was the gates. If you're doing a Panama road trip, then be aware that for sunrise hikes you may need to double check with your hostel or hotel if they're going to leave the parking gates open! We enjoyed our base at the Blasina Hostel, but had to change our plans on the first morning when we realised the staff didn’t arrive to open the gate for cars to enter/exit until 7.30am!

Swim in Chorro Las Mozas

There are a few swimming holes in and around El Valle, but some aren’t worth going out of your way to visit and another requires almost a whole day.

However, Chorro Las Mozas is both convenient and worthwhile.

This type of waterfall and natural pool is quintessentially Latin American, but we’ll admit it took us quite a while to learn how to appreciate them. Though the ‘waterfall’ part may be the headline feature, the key is knowing that it’s actually all about the setting, wild nature, and chance to kick back in the fresh flowing water.

For Chorro Las Mozas, think Semuc Champey but nowhere near as big, popular, or spectacular. It’s perfect for the afternoon after you've done a few long or early morning hikes and need to give your muscles a well-deserved soak.

There are a few shallow swimming spots popular near the entrance that are popular with local families, but you should skip those and follow the current deeper into the forest.

The main waterfall and swimming holes have to be accessed on foot, but there are no ropes, rails, or markings; the only route is via narrow paths on slippy rocks at the water's edge. Slipping is a significant and likely hazard, so you should ONLY attempt this with hiking boots/sandals or decent trainers - don't do it in flip-flops or Crocs. You really do have to watch your step at all times!

You'll eventually reach a large-ish natural pool, and after the negotiating the most treacherous part on a slope against the rock face, you'll come to Chorro Las Mozas. This has a small waterfall gushing into a delightful natural pool that’s perfect for swimming and hanging out - that's where most of you will want to get in and spend your time.

You can continue a little bit beyond that, keeping to the right hand side of the rocks, which leads to a powerful waterfall and nice view back. However, it's really not essential to go there, and it’s also where you'll see a 'peligroso' sign advising you not to continue further.

Where & When | The site is 3km from the centre of town - here on Google Maps - but easy to access on foot in about 40-50 minutes. Alternatively, it can mark the end of your La India Dormida hike (more on that later). If you’ve rented a bicycle or car, it makes sense to drive and there’s a decent-sized car park after the ticket booth.

Las Mozas is open Monday to Friday 10am - 3pm, Saturday to Sunday 8am - 4pm. On weekends, this is a popular site with local visitors, so we’d try and plan for a hot, sunny weekday afternoon if you’ve got the choice.

We are unsure whether you can access Chorro Las Mozas in the wet / rainy season months in El Valle (May to November). Visiting in January, when the water levels were supposed to be at their lowest, the rocky 'trail' to the pools was already very narrow, so we don't know how feasible it would be to get in when the river levels are higher.

Cost | $2 per person to enter, paid in cash at the gate; from there, it's a short walk / drive down to the parking and entrance.

Bring | Footwear with grip, swimming stuff, and a travel towel to lay on & dry off with. Note that there are no changing facilities here.

We suggest a couple of hours is good for enjoying Chorro Las Mozas but, if it's a lazy hot day between travelling, then you could plan to bring some food / drink and a book, and hangout for longer on the rocks.

Know | The local legend goes that three sisters were deeply in love with the same man, but he’d already fallen for another woman. The sisters wept so much under a full moon that their tears created these three waterfalls, and the siblings were seduced into the river by voices offering them everlasting happiness.

Alt / There’s also Pozos Termales El Valle de Antón (maps), but we don’t recommend it.

Walk to La India Dormida

Luba, a rebel heart and daughter of the cacique, loved a Spanish soldier and spurned Yaraví, the warrior who adored her.

Grief-stricken, Yaraví took his life, and Luba, overcome with sorrow, renounced her forbidden love. Wandering the hills, she collapsed upon a green savannah, where her body became the sleeping mountain. To this day, her legend shapes the land and lingers in the hearts of El Valle’s people.

This - along with its profile (if you squint a little) - is the folklore that gave the name to the La India Dormida mountain: The Sleeping Indian Girl.

One of the most popular things to do in El Valle, it’s easily accessible for those with and without their own transport and only moderately challenging. The brings one up and along the crater rim and ridges for views down over the town below. We’d rank this the best context-setting vista of El Valle, as one is really able to see the bowl of the caldera, the contours of the volcano walls, and appreciate how El Valle has spread itself amongst the tropical amphitheatre below.

It involves a bit of a scramble, and is mostly up and up, but definitely worth it as an introduction to this part of Panama or final flourish to your time in the town, whilst La India Dormida is also the number one sunrise spots for lots of travellers.

Where | The top of La India Dormida can be done via a well-defined 3km out-and-back trail, or includes on a longer 6km one-way route that ends at Chorro Las Mozas. The majority of you will do the former, but both include entry at the same place (here on Google Maps) to see the Piedra Pintada petroglyphs and some smaller waterfalls along the way.

Whichever way you go, note that the descent requires a bit more time and a surer step, especially conditions are wet.

Cost | It’s $3 entry per person for foreigners.

Plan | La India Dormida is also a popular sunrise hike in El Valle, and may appeal more to some over Cerro La Silla as it doesn’t require as long a roadside walk in the dark from the centre of El Valle. You can find all the details, maps, and more tips on the trails in our La India Dormida Hike guide

Know / Even in dry season (November to March), it seems to rain quite a bit in El Valle. Whilst it comes and goes - with bright, hot sun intervening - it can ruin a sunrise mission or result in a soggier or more overcast than expected hike, so do always double check specific forecasts. In the April/May to October wet season, expect more frequent and heavier showers, and expect trails to be muddy (and some may not be passable).

Enjoy The Town of El Valle

The landscapes and unique, storybook setting of El Valle are more of a draw than the town itself.

Yet, thanks to how its streets and homes often feel secondary to the nature and greenery - and often obscured by them - there is a cloak of peacefulness here that is quite dissimilar to most other Central American towns. Bicycles outnumber cars on the single long main road; there’s a lack of noisy tuktuks, motorbikes, and trucks; and no shop or restaurant is blasting promotions or reggaeton in the standard competing soundtrack elsewhere. From this, tranquility arises and the chorus of birdsong with the odd shrill cicada serenade can often be heard, and the frog croak chorus begins as night falls.

We’d bet that general stress levels for locals are permanently about 20% below average due to this and the extent to which the town is immersed in nature.

As mentioned in the introduction, El Valle is not primarily a traveller or backpacker town. Drawn by the cooler mountain air, privacy, and proximity to Panama City, generations of Panama’s elite have made El Valle their retreat, and it’s long been a weekend escape for the country’s old-money families and well-heeled city dwellers.

For Brits or Americans, think of it as somewhere like The Cotswolds or The Hamptons.

Many own sprawling estates tucked into the hills or along Avenida Los Millonarios (yep, it means what you think), and we realised this is why blue or green nanny uniforms and men on bicycles carrying a strimmer over one shoulder were such a common sight. It became quite easy to spot who belonged to which section of society, and there was even one group in a cafe with a private security detail and two blacked-out SUVs.

Overall though, it just means the town feels outdoorsy and refined, rather than touristic or overwhelming catering to foreign travellers.

Almost everything you’ll need is found alongside the 2km main road that splits the town in two, and a few places to visit, eat, or drink that we recommend adding to your map are:

· El Valle Market | Though small, this is where to come for fruit, veg, a fresh coconut, or to buy some souvenirs. Keep an eye out for the gentleman who makes jewellery by carving out old coins. Open every day from 8am - 4pm.

· Restaurante Massiel | We ate here after sunrise at Cerro La Silla, and it’s a great option for a proper Panamanian breakfast at proper Panamanian prices. Conveniently, it’s also right next to the market. The guy who served us was incredibly friendly and looked like a 50s movie star.

· Kare Coffee | A hidden-away gem, we reckon it’s probably the best place for a good coffee (open from 9am, closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays). Alternatively, the small Panamanian franchise of Café Unido El Valle in the plaza is actually a good shout for a decent cup.

· That plaza is right next to Blasina Hostel - where we stayed - and it’s got a really good, fancier supermarket too.

· Two neighbouring bakers are long-time local institutions, and impossible to walk past without grabbing a sweet or savoury snack (ideal pre or post-hike). You can find La Compañia here on Google Maps, whilst Panadaria Cano is a short walk down the road (maps)

· Ruta 71 | Just off the main street, this little bar / restaurant has a small outdoor space and an interesting selection of beers and ales. If you want something much more local for a cerveza or two, then it’s Dist Imperial.

· La Divina Commedia | There are a surprising number of Italian restaurants in El Valle, but we guessed this is due to its primary audience being wealthier Panamanians. Whilst some of the most popular don’t look like they’d meet the mark, we we very happy with the pasta dishes we had at La Divina Commedia.

By the way, this restaurant and a few others (such as La Ranita Gourmet) are geared towards being a special occasion for weekending couples and groups from Panama City and elsewhere, so it’s important that travellers make a bit more of an effort on their appearance / dress. You don’t have to be super smart, but don’t turn up in your hiking stuff or scuzziest shorts.

· Heaven's Cafe | This is a popular spot with travellers, for an affordable no-frills breakfast, lunch or dinner. Nothing great, nothing bad (although the portions are huge), and they’ve got proper coffee.

· El Rincon Colombiano | Affordable and atmospheric, it’s actually got some of the better options for veggies and vegans in town and offers one of the best-priced lunches in town.

Feel free to let us know any of your own favourites in the comments at the end of the guide.

Getting Around El Valle | Bicycle vs. Walking

As mentioned, one of the charming aspects of El Valle is how pedal bicycles are still the main mode of transport for many. This is part practical necessity due to the spread out nature of the town across the caldera floor, but also part socio-economic reality.

Men ride about one-handed, with a bright umbrella in the other or a strimmer slung over their shoulder, whilst couples ride two to a bicycle. Almost everyone seems to be on bikes that are too big or too small, as though the town should have a bike swap amnesty each year so everyone can source one the right size.

The fact is that the majority of places to eat / drink / shop / stay are found along the 2km-long, flat main road, which takes 30-40 minutes to walk from end to end. So, whilst getting around on foot is 100% possible and practical, it is also time-consuming and can limit which part of town you frequent in the evenings.

The extra walking time also needs to be factored into your planning for sunrise hikes and start / end points for trails (especially Cerro La Silla at sunrise).

That’s why bicycle rentals are offered all over town.

For some travellers, renting a bike would be a difference maker as well as a fun way to get to know and access El Valle’s sights; for others, it may simply be a practical way to visit several places in one day. It’s a cycle-friendly town, with a gravel road / cycle lane running along both sides of the main road.

Unfortunately, the rental prices can be prohibitively steep for most backpackers: at various places we were quoted $5/hour or $20-25 for the day for regular bikes; for e-bikes, the cost jumps to $20/hour and $50/day.

All rental shops offered hourly rates and multi-day discounts but, if you’re on a budget and planning to stay in El Valle for more than a few days, we'd recommend visiting a few to see if you can negotiate a better rate.

If in doubt, a central hostel like the popular Bodhi also offer rented bicycles (and is a good shout to stay at too).

If budget isn’t a concern, your best bet for quality and service may be E-Valley Bikes (maps) and Espacio Eklektiko (maps), both of which are next to the tourist information centre and museum on the east side of town. They also both offer private guided e-bike tours.

Alternatively, there are a few places offering motorbike/scooter rental, golf carts, bad ass 4x4 buggies, and multi-person bike carriages that Panamanians seems to love (Casa Grimaldo had a variety of these available).

As we were doing a road trip, we cheated by driving around to most places and trailheads. If you’re interested in renting a car to explore Panama, then we highly recommend checking out our Panama Driving Guide before you start making plans.

Save La Rana Dorada

There is a teeny tiny creature that can only be found in El Valle.

The Panamanian Golden Frog (Rana Dorada) may be elusive, but its likeness graces everything from fuel stations to lottery tickets across the country; there’s even a ‘Golden Frog’ national holiday every August!

With brilliant yellow skin marked by black blotches, it’s been declared critically endangered due to chytrid fungus and habitat loss, but the fight back is being led by the non-profit EVACC Foundation. Their small Golden Frog Sanctuary in the grounds of the Hotel Campestre, aims to educate and spearhead conservation and breeding efforts with a lot support from the USA.

Whilst a frog conservation centre may not get your pulse racing - and is possibly one of the worst first date suggestions one could ever propose - we were surprised how much we enjoyed it and learned.

Just to manage your expectations though, this is just a small room with several tanks of various sizes housing tiny brightly coloured, often highly poisonous amphibians. There are info signs in English and, whilst young woman who worked there spoke a little, she was very happy to point out the well-hidden frogs and give further explanation in Spanish.

Make sure not to tap any of the glass, and don’t use your flash if taking videos/photos.

Where + When | The Sanctuary is a short drive or bicycle ride from the centre of El Valle, or around a 25-minute walk from the eastern side of town - find it here on Google Maps. As far as we know, the colectivo that follows a circular route around the town doesn't pass EVACC.

The centre opens at 9am and closes, like many businesses in El Valle, at 4pm. It’s closed on Tuesdays.

Cost | For the small area with the tanks, entry is $3 per person (cash only), and this supports the facility as well as research and conversation efforts. There is also the 1.4km Arboles Cuadrados (Square Trees) nature trail in the same location, but that’s an additional $3 per person. As we were already hiking quite a lot in El Valle we decided to give this a miss, and it seemed like it may be a better option for those with children or travellers who are less mobile.

Know // This is primarily a scientific and conservation endeavour, rather than a mass animal tourist attraction, which is why we’re recommending it here. El Nispero Zoo in El Valle also has endangered frogs and large animals, but we do not endorse visiting zoos (and some reviews suggest that the conditions within which the animals are housed are not ideal).

The ‘Butterfly Haven’ (maps) is also popular and highly-rated place, but we’ve been to a few of these elsewhere so it didn’t make our own list of unmissable things to do in El Valle. You may wish to consider it though, but note that opening ours are brief on weekdays (10am - 3.30pm).

Walk To Cerro Cara Iguana

This was our favourite hike in El Valle de Antón.

A little wild and rugged in parts, the 8km Cara Iguana loop requires a bit more fitness and spirit of adventure than the popular trails we’ve mentioned thus far, but this just means it’s less crowded and feels more like a proper hike than a walk up to a viewpoint.

The highlight is the dramatic stretch along the windswept caldera ridge, with open, endless views in every direction. The culmination is the wide open plateau of Cerro Cara Iguana, a perfect spot to catch your breath and soak it all in.

We’d recommend tackling the loop anti-clockwise, but you can just as easily head the other way from town. If you’re short on time, energy, or enthusiasm, there’s a shorter, easier alternative, which skips the wilder dusty trails and brings you right up to the plateau via a gravel road.

Where & When | The main area of Cerro Cara Iguana can be found here on Google Maps and, whichever route you take to get there, it’s accessible on foot. This is the popular viewpoint that can be accessed from the main road without having to hike the longer trail that we enjoyed.

You can head up there any time of day, but late afternoon and sunset is particularly popular.

If you’d prefer to take on the full hike, this is the start point

Cost | Free

Plan // Choose the best route for your travel style with our full Cerro Cara Iguana hike guide, or find the AllTrails route that we used here

The Caldera Route in El Valle

As you’ll know by now, El Valle was founded within a collapsed volcano.

This also formed the mountains that encircle the town, like La India Dormida and Cara Iguana, which are actually the remaining walls of the volcano.

So, when you’re on a hike in El Valle, you’re often walking directly along the rim of the volcano - pretty cool right?

We knew about the various individual hikes + walks in and around town, but it was only when we arrived that we learned of the official new Caldera Route. Comprised of four interconnected and separate trails running along the mountain ridges and caldera’s edge (two of which we’ve already covered), travellers can opt to do some, all or combine a couple into a more challenging day-hike.

The 'Ruta de La Caldera' has four sections:

1. La India Dormida | 4-6 hours | 6km | Moderate

2. Cara Iguana | 3.5-4.5 hours | 6.3km | Moderate

3. Macano-La Silla | 5-7 hours | 9.4km | Difficult

4. Gaital Berrales | 2-3 hours | 4.5km | Moderate

By the way, if you’re starting to get a little overwhelmed at which hikes/walks to prioritise, it’s worth saying that you can absolutely combine some into a single day i.e. Cerro La Silla & India Dormida, or India Dormida for sunrise & Cara Iguana for sunset.

A Day At Pozo Azul

If we'd had an extra day in El Valle, this canyon with a series of natural swimming holes is definitely where we’d have gone.

However, the need to drive to the small town nearby and then take a separate 4x4 up to the pools meant what could have been a relatively quick trip with our rental car would have ended up requiring half a day, and we just didn’t have the time to spare.

With that said, they do look worthwhile so if you're not a big hiker and a single trek up to the crater rim for views over the valley is enough, Pozo Azul and Las Pailas de Lomo Grande would likely be a super fun day trip. In fact, small group of travellers from our hostel prioritised doing it whilst in El Valle.

Where + When | Find Pozo Azul here on Google Maps, and entrance is 8am-4pm.

Cost | You can join a tour from El Valle for around $20 per person, whilst this option is available to book online (but you will almost certainly find cheaper in town)

Alternatively, you those with a car can drive to Sofre and park up at the entrance where a guide with a 4x4 to the start point for the hike to the pools and falls. It’s $5 per person for the 4x4 round-trip, or you can walk it.

Help // As we didn’t actually make it to Pozo Azul, we unfortunately can’t give a meaningful verdict or tips on visiting it independently with public transport. So, if you head out there independently or with a tour, please do share your experience in the comments below to help out other travellers like you. Cheers!

Hike the Cerro El Gaital Mirador (Or Not)

Whilst not a bad way to spend a couple of hours, we’re not sure this warrants a place at the top of your list of things to do in El Valle.

It’s an easy 3km loop through thick tropical forest, to a deck 1,138 metres above sea level that offers quite a dramatic view of the mountains and caldera. Low, dark cloud obscured that view for most of the time we were up there, and it was incredibly windy, which perhaps coloured our opinion; on a clear day it may offer a better experience.

Nevertheless, it was a pleasant walk and, at just under 90 minutes from start to finish, didn’t feel like a waste of time!

Where | There are conflicting start points for the Gaital hike, but we can confirm the correct place to head for - find it here on Google Maps.

We drove up there with our rental car, and parked directly outside the entrance, where there's a bus stop, a house, and space for a handful of cars to park at the roadside.

As we passed a small white colectivo with ‘La Mesa / El Valle’ on the front of it, and saw locals at several bus shelters along the way, we’re 99% certain that you can get up there with public transport. It picks up outside Heavens Cafe in the centre of El Valle (maps). If considering walking the four or so kilometres out and up from El Valle to reach the start point, we’d suggest it’s not worth it.

Route | The entrance gate was closed and the office at the start of the hike looked like it had been shut for a few years (supposedly due to a payment dispute). You can however simply go to the right side of the gate and follow a little lane, and enter the trail where you see a noticeboard with the route map.

If the office ever re-opens and/or a charge is introduced for Cerro El Gaital, do let us know in the comments.

A short walk after this, take the left at the sign (not the right) - this takes you up the easiest way to the viewpoint.

For a less slippy descent, simply take that same path back down, or take the other one to complete the loop, though it’s a slightly messier and more challenging route down.

We did the loop, and neither posed any issues. The descent was however quite muddy and slippy, so if you’re concerned at all about conditions, it’s much better to stick with the left path for both the ascent and descent. We passed a family going up the right path in various pairs of white trainers, and they definitely regretted it…

You can view our map + entry for Cerro El Gaital here on AllTrails.

There is a path beyond the mirador viewing deck which leads you to the top of Cerro El Gaital, but there are various signs advising against this. Reports we’ve read talk of it being incredibly overgrown and becoming quite challenging quite quickly - particularly in heavy winds - so please follow the official advice and turn back after the deck.

Hiking boots will be best for this walk if you’ve got them.

Know // There is actually another trail and hill in Valle del Anton with an absurdly similar name: Cerro El Gaita. This was quite the source of confusion during our research, but we ultimately realised that the Gaita (without the 'l') is now private land and no longer open to the general public.

This still seems to the case from recent Google Maps comments, so we advise being doubly certain you put the right one into AllTrails, Google Maps or Maps.me

Do let us know if this ever changes.

Ziplining at Chorro Macho

As is hopefully clear by now, we prioritised hiking in El Valle as its landscapes and topography just lend themselves to that.

Due to some mixed reviews, we had ‘Chorro Macho’ down as a place we probably should visit simply in order to tell you if it’s worth it or not, but one glance at the crowds outside on our drive up to the Cerro El Gaital trail made the decision for us.

Closer to the Costa Rica version of an outdoors destination, namely in that you have to pay for the privilege and there's usually a zipline or hanging bridge involved, it is absolutely one of the most popular things to do in El Valle for Panamanian holidaymakers but not for travellers.

The 35-metre high Chorro El Macho waterfall can be visited for $3 per person via a 200 metre trail, or it’s $5 to just access the natural swimming pool. From everything we’ve read, heard, and seen, it’s almost certainly not worth going out of your way to pay that for either, especially given the excellent alternatives already discussed in town.

However, the principal attraction here the zipline experience offered by Canopy Adventure Panama. It’s $20 or $65 depending on which you opt for so, whilst it didn’t feature in our plans, for those travelling with younger kids or looking to zipline for the first time, it may warrant being in yours!

Where To Stay in El Valle de Antón

Hotels & Guest Houses in El Valle

Casa Grimaldo | Drawn in by the comfortable, simple but well-designed rooms, we very nearly booked this centrally located, hacienda-style property. The outdoor space is gorgeous, and the reviews generally excellent too.

Nomada Republic Hotel | Just outside of El Valle, this place offers modern shipping container-style rooms that are cozy, comfortable and relatively well though out. The real selling point however are the balconies - each one has great views of the valley, making it the perfect spot to start and end your day. You’ll feel like you’re right in the heart of nature, with toucans and sloths sometimes making an appearance nearby. The restaurant, Las Nubes, serves a solid breakfast and a mix of international and local dishes. It’s about a 10-minute drive from town, so while it’s a little out of the way, the peaceful vibe and stunning views make it worth the short trip.

El Zumbito | Located just outside of town, El Zumbito offers simple, comfortable rooms with everything you need - private bathrooms, a fridge, and a TV. It’s not fancy, but it’s a decent choice. There’s a shared kitchen if you feel like cooking your own meals, plus a nice garden where you can chill after a day of hiking. The property’s right by the start of the India Dormida hike, so it’s perfect if you want to get up early and hit the trail. While it’s a bit out of the way, the quiet atmosphere and natural surroundings make it a good choice if you’re after peace and easy access to nature.

The Golden Frog | This guest house offers a super comfy stay with added extras like a pool and lovely garden area, meaning it’s always a popular pick. The rooms are large, light-filled and tastefully decorated, and the king - with its large balcony offering spectacular views over the valley - is probably worth the extra. It’s important to note that it’s located a decent distance from the town which means it would suit those with a car most. There’s an on-site restaurant which offers a very Mexican inspired menu (we’ll let you decide if this is a good thing!).

Casa Madre Tierra is at a similar price point, but has a more central location which may be better for some.

If you’re travelling on a bit more of a budget, but have grown up (and out) of hostels, be sure to take a look at Los Aramos and Donde José.

Hostels in El Valle

Blasina Hostel | A new option on the east side of town, this is where we stayed. Much better than the photos online, it’s got a really excellent guest kitchen, communal chill out area, and is right by one of the best supermarkets in town. Free parking on site too. The rooms are definitely basic (especially the bathrooms) but won’t phase anybody used to proper Latin American hostels. We’d stay there again very, very happily!

Bodhi Hostel | Probably the most popular option for backpackers in El Valle, which why it’s usually sold out (especially the rarer than hen’s teeth doubles!). The dorms have those three-storey beds which we don’t personally enjoy, but don’t seem to put off previous guests, whilst the privates are basic but pretty nice. There’s also plenty of space to hang out, whether you’re down for yoga or just want to chill with other travellers in the garden. They do a free breakfast and have lots of great advice on transport and activities in the area. Note that they have a bar at the front which is open to non-guests but never drew us in.

Airbnbs in El Valle

Quite a few of those very lovely properties owned by some of the El Valle’s wealthier residents are actually rented out on Airbnb at various points throughout the year and are perfect options if you’re visiting the area with family or a larger group of friends. Some excellent, standalone properties with three or more bedrooms include: Casa Coco, this beautiful country house, Casa de Campo and Vista Gaital.

Cute Cabin | One of several highly-rated and centrally-located cabins within the same property which would suit a signle traveller or a couple. Has a small internal kitchenette but also an outdoor barbecue and peaceful garden area.

The Retreat | These little casitas are a real good find in El Valle. Offering two bedrooms, they’re beautifully decorated and comfortably furnished, each have a terrace with views out over the countryside and access to a shared pool. Just a 10-15 minute walk from the town’s main street, but offering a completely serene setting to enjoy the peacefulness of El Valle.

Other smaller Airbnbs (suitable for couples or small families) that you should aboslutely take a look at inlcude Spacious Casita with Bamboo View and Casa Campestre Los Marcos.

How To Get To El Valle de Antón

By Bus from Panama City

The easiest way to reach El Valle de Antón by public transport is from Panama City’s Albrook Bus Terminal (maps). Buses leave roughly every 20 minutes throughout the day until around 7pm, and the journey takes around 2.5 hours. Tickets cost $4.50 per person, and it’ll be a straightforward, comfortable ride through the countryside.

Note that where you ask to get dropped off along the main road may make a big difference to the walk to your accommodation!

By Bus from Somewhere Else in Panama

If you’re coming from elsewhere Panama, you’ll first need to get to the town of San Carlos (maps). From there, take a bus to El Valle de Antón in about an hour.

By Car

It was an easy and enjoyable drive for us once we left Panama City Tocumen International Airport - where we picked up our rental car - leaving the Interamericana Highway after about two hours and taking the scenic, winding countryside road into El Valle. Total distance was 147km, travel time was just under three hours.

We recommend looking + booking on Rentalcars.com to get the best deal, and if you’re considering a road trip, you absolutely need to read 7 Mistakes To Avoid When Driving in Panama (tbc)