A Curated Guide to Monopoli | A Base By The Sea in Puglia

One of our favourite little towns in Puglia, Monopoli is a worthy addition to any itinerary.

In this guide you’ll discover the best things to do in Monopoli, our pick of where to stay and some excellent tips on where to eat.

Fully Updated August 2024

We didn’t make it to Monopoli the first time we visited Puglia.

Two weeks spent criss-crossing the region, in the lingering summer heat of an unseasonably warm October had left us craving the cool waters of the Adriatic Sea upon on our skin and dampened our desire to explore the flower-lined streets of yet another city - no matter how beautiful that city may be.

So, when we retuned for our second visit to Puglia the following spring, Monopoli was at the top of our list; it was definitely worth the wait.

With a much more lived-in feel than some of the more popular tourist towns in the area, Monopoli allows you to have a beautiful, quintessentially southern Italian experience whilst still catching glimpses into everyday life; fishermen and their catch retuning to the photogenic harbour in the mid-morning, groups of men - young and old - congregating on the street to discuss everything and nothing in a sing-song language often too quick to understand, nonnas on balconies watching the world go by, and bars full of locals and not tourists.

Throw in the fact that it’s close to many fine beaches and within easy driving distance of many of the area’s biggest attractions and beautiful villages, and Monopoli makes a truly wonderful base from which to explore Puglia.

So wonderful in fact, that when we returned to Puglia for our third road trip, we returned once more!

In this guide you’ll find our pick of the best things to do in Monopoli, a few restaurant suggestions, plus personal tips on day trips, swimming spots, and delightful places to stay.

The Monopoli Essentials

Wander / The super pretty historic centre. An enjoyable activity to do by yourself, or consider joining a walking tour to learn more from a local

Stroll / Along the lungomare and stop at Il Bastione Santa Maria & Castello di Carlo V

Visit / Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia and the slightly spooky Chiesa di Santa Maria del Suffragio

Laze / On Monopoli’s city beaches or jump in the car to visit the beautiful coves and calas nearby

Watch / The pretty boats bob in Porto Antico

Eat / Panzerotti at Madià morsi di felicità at gelato at Gelateria Caruso - or join a street food tour

Enjoy / A spritz in Pizza Giuseppe Garibaldi

Sail / Hop on a boat for a tour along the coast - this tour heads all the way to Polignano and has excellent reviews

Stay / Enjoy luxury at Hotel Don Ferrante, or opt for the lovely Orazio33 B&B. Also lots of apartments to choose from - we love Palazzo Manzoni, Terrazza Ninetta and Casa Creta

Things To Do in Monopoli

Get Lost in The Old Town

The modern city that surrounds the centro storico is full of colour, with buildings a kaleidoscope of pinks, oranges and blues. Move further into the past however, along the narrow winding streets that criss-cross an area of land that has been inhabited for centuries, and the city becomes white, with the only accents Monopoli’s sage green window shutters and balcony boxes in full bloom.

The historic centre is the perfect size to negotiate in a few hours. As always in Italy, simply follow your instinct, your curiosity and - depending on time of day - your nose along boutique lined streets, towards small squares, through arches and towards the sea.

Oh, and be sure to have a camera handy - their really is a photo around every corner!

Whilst we wouldn’t recommend planning a specific route around the centro storico, there are a few places that we’d like to draw your attention to:

Cattedrale Maria Santissima della Madia (maps) | More than just another pretty Italian church, Monopoli’s cathedral has a rather interesting tale attached to it… Dedicated to Madonna della Madia, who - as legend will have it - arrived here by sea on the December 15, 1117 on a raft bearing 31 wooden beams. Wooden beams that just so happens allowed the city to complete the church that had sat uncompleted for several years - how very fortunate!

The wooden church no longer stands, having been replaced with a rather impressive Baroque building in the 1700s, and whether you believe the myth or not, it’s definitely worth poking your head inside to admire the incredible ornate interior (which is infinitely more impressive than it looks from the outside). It’s open 7.30am -12pm, then 4pm - 8.30pm and is free to enter.

Beneath the Cathedral you’ll find Monopoli’s Museo e Sito Archeologico Cripta Romanica, a fascinating little museum housing the excavated remains of previous structures that have stood on this site including various tombs and crypts. It’s only open at the Friday to Sunday (9.30am - 1.30pm, and then 4pm - 8pm) and costs €5 per person.

Palmieri Palace (maps) | Located in a quiet square of the same name, the 18th century Baroque palace provides a fantastic example of Lecce-inspired architecture. Built for the local Palmieri family, it is now in the hands of a charity and after having undergone significant renovation works hosts Monopoli’s International Festival of Art and Photography (PhEST, held every year from the end of August to early November). You can find full details of the event and the featured artists on the official website.

It’s actually featuring the works of one of our favourite photographers, Natalie Karpushenko, this year with the dates for the 2024 event being 30th August to 3rd November.

Whilst you’re in this area, stop by Il Baratto, a cool curio shop.

Chiesa di San Salvatore | Built by pirates who survived a shipwreck (or so the legend tells us), this little church at the edge of the sea is said to be the oldest in Monopoli, dating all the way back to the 4th century.

Chiesa di Santa Maria del Suffragio (maps) | Located next to the Cathedral is the fascinating Church of Purgatory, a place where mass was celebrated to pray for the souls of those in limbo. Beyond the wooden doorway engraved with skulls, the church has quite a pretty interior - until that is you notice the glass cabinet holding the 18th century mummified remains of eight founding members of the church and local administrators

Travel Tip // If you prefer to hear the stories of Monopoli from a local, and learn more about the city’s history (and lots of insider tips!) consider taking this city highlights tour (with tastings of local products), or this private walking tour with excellent reviews.

Take a Stroll Along The Lungomare

Before or after the sun climbs high in the sky, we’d highly recommend taking a stroll along the lungomare - the paved promenade that runs along the coast, skirting Monopoli’s old town.

Not only does it provide an alternative vantage point of the city and a cooling sea breeze, but it will also bring you to a number of the city’s historical highlights.

Il Bastione Santa Maria (maps) | Just beyond the port, opposite Chiesa Santa Maria della Zaffara Secolo, you will find evidence of an old defensive tower with two relatively well preserved canons, designed to protect Monopoli during more turbulent times

You’re able to climb the tower from which you can gain a better vantage point along the coast.

Castello di Carlo V (maps) | Built on a promontory (that’s a piece of land that juts out into the sea to most of us), this 16th century castle is a must-see for all who pass through Monopoli. Beautifully restored it now plays host to weddings, conferences and exhibitions.

Visitors can theoretically enter the castle, but do be aware that you only have access to a handful of exhibition rooms not the entire building. Additionally, you’re not always able to venture up to the rooftop for views over the old town and the sea - as was the case when we visited. Unfortunately, it seems that staff aren’t always forthcoming with this information when visitors are buying their tickets (and they’re pretty pricey at €10 each) so we’d highly recommend getting a firm answer on what you can access before stumping up any cash.

Spend The Day At The Local Beaches

Our first visit to Monopoli in the cooler month of March was not terribly conducive to dips in the sea and hours at the beach, so we made a point of seeking out its loveliest beaches, calas, and sunbathing spots on latest trip during a blissfully warm September.

There are lots of really excellent sunbathing and swimming spots, beaches and coves a short drive from Monopoli - you can find them all in our guide - but the town itself has a number of great options.

Cala Porta Vecchia (The Monopoli Town Beach)

With the historic centre forming the backdrop, this is a picturesque and uniquely Italian setting for a few hours swimming and sunbathing before, after, or between your exploring.

You can choose to lay down along the long strip of walkway and rocks beneath the old city walls and watchtower (maps), accessible by the stairs on the left, or the narrow strip of sand to the right. For the good spot on the sand, it's best to arrive early and do be aware that the area available is affected by the tide. Further to the right, you can also go native and lay your towel down on a smooth rock.

The swimming and water here is perfect, and it's a good spot if you're travelling with children.

Porto Bianco

If rocks ain't your thing, then Porto Bianco is probably the very best option for you within Monopoli.

A large patch of sand relative to Porta Vecchia and others, the water's crystal-clear, and it's in a nice setting. Family-friendly, close to the centre of town and all designated as a 'free beach', rather than cluttered with lidos, it's always a popular choice on a summer's weekend.

If the sandy section is too crowded, there's also plenty of preferable alternatives upon the grassy bank above or on the rocks on both sides.

Find it here.

Spiaggia di Cala Porto Rosso

Just round the shore from Porto Bianco - and around a 20 minute walk from the centre of Monopoli - Spiaggia di Cala Porto Rosso (maps) is our favourite beach in Monopoli town.

The sheltered inlet has warm, shallow waters for swimming, a decent-sized area of sandy free beach, and plenty rocky areas on both sides if you'd prefer to avoid the crowds and umbrellas below.

Looking For Beaches Near Monopoli?

In addition to the excellent beaches within the town’s limits, there are several really excellent options just a short car ride away, ideal for those visiting Monopoli as part of a Puglia road trip, who have their own vehicle.

All the names highlighted below are links to the specific location on Google Maps - don’t say we don’t make things easy for you!

Calamarena | Popular with in the know locals, this wild cove has crystal clear water, sunbeds for rent and a small bar with good Aperol spritz.

Cala Paradiso | Part beach club - but with a section of sand that can be used for free - this is a very popular beach during the warmer months.

Spiaggia di Porto Marzano | A small sandy beach that is free to access, with wild surroundings. Popular with families and also has free parking and a bar during the warmest months.

Spiaggia di Porto Ghiacciolo | A lively sandy cove at the foot of an abbey, this isn’t a great choice for those who want a peaceful Monopoli beach experience, but is incredibly popular. Also has a nice bar/restaurant renting out sunbeds and parasols.

Spiaggia di Santo Stefano | Overlooked by a medieval castle, this is probably the most photogenic beach in the area (seriously, just take a looks at the parasols), with beautiful water to boot!

Capitolo | If you prefer long stretches of sand over small coves, Capitolo is the one for you. Located nearby Egnazi Archeological Park, it has a variety of beach clubs for all budgets as well as free sections of beach.

Find out more details and photos to choose the right one for your travel style in our main post: The11 Best Monopoli Beaches

Porto Antico di Monopoli

Is there anything more photogenic than colourful boats atop blue waters?

Throw in weather-worn fishermen sorting their early morning catch, and that’s reason enough for us to remain harbourside, camera in hand, for quite some time.

The red and blue boats - called ‘gonzo’ - are actually pretty iconic for the region, many made by local ship making artisans, and their contrast against the white washed walls of Monopoli’s old town is quite marvellous.

Top tip | If you just can’t get enough of the harbour view, consider staying in this stunning little Airbnb which used to be an old fisherman’s cottage.

Head Out To Sea

If the sight of colourful boats inspires a need to get out on the water yourself, you should consider joining a boat tour. Not only is it a fantastic way to access caves and grottos that are inaccessible by foot, but gives you an alternative vantage point on the gorgeous coastline.

There are lots of options available - and you’ll see various posters around the city advertising day trips. However, if you’re looking to book one online and in advance (with the ability to cancel up to 24 hours before), consider:

· This 2.5 hour tour that takes in Cala Corvino, Porto Alga, and the Grotta degli Innamorati before heading onwards to Polignano a Mare, with views of Grotta delle Monache, Eremita Island, and Lama Monachile. It’s got fantastic reviews and includes lunch and drinks.

· If you feel like pushing the boat out, this longer option for a private group includes snorkel gear and time for swimming and also heads to Polignano a Mare.

· For an alternative take on the Apulian Riviera, the intrepid amongst you could also try your hand at scuba diving, on this popular ‘Discover Scuba Diving’ experience that departs from Monopoli.

Indulge In a Local Treat

If you’re not hungry enough for a big lunch, are just looking for something to tide you over to dinner, Monopoli is an excellent place to to try your very first panzerotto.

A beloved street food in Puglia (although we found Neapolitan pizza frita to be very similar) this golden brown, deep-fried pastry stuffed with a savoury mixture of cheese and tomato sauce is everything that is right about Italian food - simple but gloriously delicious, and likely to make you gain a few pounds if eaten with no restraint!

You’ll find panzerotti places all over the region, but we tried our very first one here in Monopoli, at the excellent Madià morsi di felicità (maps), widely recognised as selling the city’s best.

Travel Tip // If we had you at Puglian street food, consider joining this highly-rated street food tour of Monopoli. As it’s a walking tour, you’ll learn about the city’s layout and history at the same time as enjoying several delectable and portable local treats including ice cream, focaccia panzerottini, plus local wine, accompanied by taralli and olives.

Alternatively, for a more in-depth appreciation of Puglian cuisine and produce, consider joining one of the several food-based experiences at nearby Masseria Spina in Monopoli's Parco Rurale. They offer a pasta-making lab, wine tasting, olive oil tasting, or a local food tasting.

Take a Day Trip

Monopoli's location makes it an ideal place to base yourself for your Puglia explorations, with easy access by car (and occasionally public transport) to many of the region's biggest attractions.

These are some of our top recommendations for excellent day trips from Monopoli:

Polignano a Mare | The home of Puglia's most famous beach - Cala Porto - Polignano is a popular stop on all Puglian itineraries. Only 15 minutes away by car (and train) from Monopoli, it’s an ideal day trip.

Find out more in our guide, including advice on how to get there.

Archeological park and National Museum of Egnazia (maps) | Dating back to the Bronze Age, the ancient town of Egnazia is home to a number of impressive Roman and Messapic ruins. Excavation is ongoing, and whilst most of the high value objects have been plundered over the years, it remains a fascinating site for those with an interest in archeology.

The park and museum is open daily 8.30am - 7pm during the summer, and 8.30 am to 4.30 pm during the winter months. A combined entry ticket costs €10 per person, with various other tickets available. Very easy to visit with a car, but there’s also a public bus that runs from Monopoli in summer.

Alberobello | A UNESCO Heritage site with its iconic trulli, Alberobello is a must-do in the region. For us, its touristy vibe make it preferable to visit on a day trip.

You can read all our tips for visiting Alberobello in our short guide. We can’t source any tours that visit Alberobello from Monopoli, but if you’d like to join a walking tour when you arrive, this one has excellent reviews.

Day Trips from Monopoli

Ostuni | When readers ask, Ostuni is usually our other recommendation for a great place to stay as a base for your Puglia road trip, but if you plan on using Monopoli as a base, this very pretty hilltop white city is also possible to visit as a day trip with most of its major sites easy to negotiate in a few hours.

You can find out much more in our guide to Ostuni.

The Villages of the Valle d'Itria | The pretty villages of Martina Franca, Cisternino and Locorotondo are some of our favourite places in Puglia, and if you set aside the entire day, it's certainly possible to visit them all at once from Monopoli.

Pizza & People Watching in Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 

A nondescript glass of chilled white wine at a nondescript bar in a beautiful Italian piazza; there are few things we’d rather do in this country than pull up a wooden chair and watch the tales of local life unfold before us.

And in Monopoli, the very best place to do that is in Pizza Giuseppe Garibaldi.

It’s a wonderful to place to sit at any time of day, but it truly comes alive after 5pm when visitors and residents alike flock to the many bars and restaurants that line its perimeter for an early evening aperitivo.

Top Tip // We had a couple of really excellent Neapolitan pizzas at Piazzetta 10 Pizza & Restaurant (maps) in the piazza. The tables outside are excellent for people watching, the white wine by the glass is rather good but do be aware that they may be victims of their own success - recent visitors state the prices are now on the high side and service a little gruff (if you eat here, we’d love to hear from you).

An excellent alternative may be Chinè - Andrew’s sister ate here last summer and said it was the best pizza she had in all of Puglia (and she’s married to an Italian!). Oh, and if you’ve still got room for dessert, be sure to check out Bella Blue Gelateria (maps) - the pistachio ice cream was excellent!

Where to Stay in Monopoli

As we’ve mentioned quite a bit, Monopoli makes a fantastic base for your wider Puglian adventures. So, what you’ll find below is a selection of our personal accommodation recommendations, including Airbnbs, hotels and guest houses.

Airbnbs in Monopoli

There are an astoundingly large number of Airbnbs in Monopoli - a number that has increased significantly since our first trip to Monopoli - so we’ve put together this separate article with our pick of the city’s best.

We have however selected a handful of our favourites below:

Vico Castello | An exquisite historic house in the very heart of Monopoli with exclusive rooftop and waterfront view. It’s the perfect retreat for couples and families to enjoy Puglia in complete privacy and relaxation.

Cozy, Comfy and Beautifully Restored Loft | If you’re passionate about contemporary interior design, be sure to take a look at this fantastically modern apartment. Successfully marrying East London loft vibes with more traditional Pugliese elements, it has a full kitchen, studio style bedroom and even free bikes. Located just outside the old town, the nearby free parking makes it a good shout for those doing a Puglia road trip.

Puglia Vacation Rental | A beautifully restored typically Puglian home in the centre of Monopoli, this apartment is full of light thanks to its white walls, high ceilings and floor length windows. Featuring two large bedrooms, it’s an ideal choice for a family or two couples travelling together.

Casetta sul "Porto Antico" | A modern re-imagination of a traditional Pugliese home (it was in fact an old fisherman’s cottage), this stunning property is all curved lines, soft finishes and contemporary design. We kind of love it. A fantastic location right the harbour with views out over the colourful boats.

La Casetta di Gió | This studio Airbnb is so.damn.cool! Located in a traditional Pugliese cave style building, it definitely won’t suit everyone - but it’s absolutely perfect for active younger couples and single travellers, and those that love a bit of quirky style. It’s also incredibly budget-friendly for its central location.

If your travel style is more apartment than hotel, then head on over to the best airbnbs in Monopoli to find out more!

Guesthouses & Hotels in Monopoli

Dimora Pietrabianca | At £83 a night, this hotel is exceptionally good value. A stone’s throw from Pizza Garibaldi, it is clean and modern with excellent facilities.

B&B Portorosso | A short walk from the old town (and very close to Cala Porto Rosso, hence the name), this is a super stylish B&B for those that appreciate modern design, with large rooms and clean lines.

Orazio33 B&B | Located just a stone’s throw from Porto Antico, this lovely little B&B offers contemporary styling in a traditional Puglian property. It also benefits from a gorgeous shared roof terrace.

Monopoli has a number of excellent hotel/B&Bs around the same price point, of which we’d recommend Palazzo Indelli, B&B A C-caste and Dimora Maio.

Hotel Don Ferrante | Definitely not a hotel to suit every budget, but if you’re looking to splurge on a truly luxurious hotel, Don Ferrante is very highly rated, with all the facilities you’d expect from a 5* hotel.

There are also a number of beautiful Masseira (essentially very fancy countryside retreats) a handful of miles from Monopoli which remain ideally located for exploring the region, with easy access to and from the city. If this sounds like something you might enjoy, our two picks are Masseria Torrepietra and Masseria Il Melograno. Both have fantastic facilities and exceptional design.

How To Get To Monopoli From Bari

Given Monopoli's close proximity to Bari (it's only 29 miles away), the vast majority of people visiting Monopoli - be that as a day trip or using it as a base - will arrive from the city.

Bari to Monopoli by Car /

On both occasions that we've visited Puglia, we've rented a car for the duration of our stay. This is an amazing destination for an Italian road trip, and having your own wheels will allow you to make the best of your time in the region.

The 29 miles between Bari and Monopoli are easily covered by car, and the journey should take around 45 minutes, dependent upon traffic.

If you’re flying into Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport and picking up your rental car there, it’s a straightforward 45 minute drive to Monopoli (don’t drive through Bari) on the SS16 highway. For all our Italian road trips, we we look and book our car using either AutoEurope or RentalCars.

If renting a car, then just make sure to check with your accommodation in advance about the best place to park up in Monopoli - some places will have free parking, but most won’t (especially those in the old town).

Read more | Things to Know Before Driving in Puglia and Our Puglia Road Trip Itinerary

Bari to Monopoli by Train /

For those not keen on renting a car to experience Puglia, the good news is that the train network along the west coast of the region is actually pretty good - including between Bari and Monopoli. 

There are regular departures leaving from Bari Centrale (Google Maps) multiple times a day (€3.30 per person), and journey time is between 25-55 minutes depending upon which train you take. Please note that the centro storico is around a 25 minute walk from the train station.

If you are coming from Bari Airport directly to Monopoli, you can jump on a train there instead of coming into the city. The trains cost €4 from here.

To check prices, availability and timetables, use visit the official Trenitalia website. You can book and pay for your ticket on arrival to the station, or alternatively you can book them in advance, online.

Before using Italy’s train network , we highly recommend reading our guide ‘12 Essential Tips For Train Travel in Italy

 
 
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