9 Delightful Things to Do in Procida | Notes From a Small Island
Planning to visit the lovely little island of Procida? Our guide’s got you covered.
“Up the hills towards the countryside, my island has lonely streets closed between ancient walls, others of which stretch out orchards and vineyards that look like imperial gardens. ”
Florence, Bologna, Genoa, Cagliari, Lecce, Siena, Palermo, Matera, Tropea, and Parma.
The directory of former Italian and European Capitals of Culture reads as an all too tempting rundown of ‘where to visit in Italy’, with several of the country’s most outstanding destinations receiving the accolade. Indeed, joining the list of winners is somewhat of a fait accompli for securing the interest of tourists - foreign and national - for years to come.
It was therefore a little surprising to learn that the local mayor wasn’t entirely enthusiastic when the domestic crown passed to the tiny island of Procida in 2022, his joy at being chosen tempered by a very real fear that “the Capital of Culture puts us too much in view”.
You see, unlike the larger neighbouring Phlegraean Islands of Ischia and Capri - both of which actively seek out tourism and have developed as a result of their visitor’s wealth - little Procida has an economy driven by the sea, and a population who feel at home upon it.
This isn’t a place of luxury resorts, tourist-trap restaurants or late night bars, and despite the immediate beauty of the Coricella’s colourful houses tumbling towards the water, much of Procida is is a bit dishevelled or in desperate need of a lick of paint.
Some who have visited the island believe that this may be down to design rather than default, “a way to not only preserve how the island looks, and what it looked like, but also to stop people from coming”.
To our eyes however, this faded aesthetic is an integral part of Procida’s appeal; a place that whispered its welcome as soon as we arrived.
Perhaps it was learning that our apartment with the most perfect ceramic tiles, that overlooked a lemon grove towards the sea, was the same place that an Italian author wrote one of her greatest books, but Procida quickly felt like that singular sort of place that we could return to work, to relax, to hide, and to enjoy the simple pleasures of slow southern Italian life, in a place that embodies slow Italian living (unless said Italian is on a fat tire electric bicycle…)
In our guide, we’ve shared all the best things to do in Procida alongside recommendations on where to eat, drink, and stay. We’ve also included all the essential information to plan your visit - most likely by boat from Naples or Ischia - and personal tips to make the most of your time and get around the largely car-free, but by no means traffic-free, island.
This is our guide to Procida, Italy.
The Procida Essentials
Size / Smallest inhabited island in the Bay of Naples, with just 10,000 residents and area of 4 square kilometres
Say / Pronounced as ‘praw-chee-dah’
Access / Easily visited on a day trip by boat from Naples or Ischia, with arrival at the port in Marina Grande
See / Don’t miss Corricella, Terra Murata, and the viewpoints
Sun / Several black sand beaches to choose from, with Spiaggia Chiaia our favourite
Do / A boat + swimming tour of the island, like this highly-rated one
Know / Leave your rental car behind as no incoming vehicles allowed from April to October
Stay / Three days or more. Our lovely Airbnb apartment - where the Italian author Elsa Morante wrote her best known novel. Alternatively, with sea views at San Michele Hotel
Our Favourite Things To Do in Procida
Wander the Colourful Village of Corricella
A single glance at Corricella is enough to make one weak at the knees.
Rising from the lapping waters like a pastel layer cake, it’s no wonder that The Talented Mr Ripley - the Matt Damon one, not the more recent Netflix adaptation - chose it when trying to find a filming location positively dripping with that old Italian coastal aesthetic.
A muted rainbow of pastel pinks, yellows, and blues, the historic fishing village is comprised of the pretty marina and the ‘centre’ above, linked by a network of steep stairs in a state of disrepair and sloping cobblestone streets.
Corricella is undeniably the busiest and best known part of the island, and it’s where all day trippers and any tour group will make a beeline toward (at times to such an extent that it makes that ‘undiscovered gem’ cliché people often use about Procida seem laughable). Most want to have lunch at one of the little seafood restaurants with tables just steps from the water, but there is magic to be found by wandering around the higher levels in search of unobvious viewpoints, icons, street scenes, and people-watching piazzas in and around Via San Rocco and the Santuario Santa Maria delle Grazie Incoronata.
Find the Marina here on Google Maps and Via San Rocco here.
Plan | For a scenic lunch in Corricella Marina, you really should make a reservation in advance. This is especially true on the weekend in high season when the restaurants along the waterfront are often booked out with locals having a long, indulgent lunch.
Caracalè, Ristorante Gorgonia, Bar Ristorante Graziella and Ristorante Pizzeria Fuego (no pizzas at lunch) all offer wonderful harbour-edge locations with views out over the blues, but do be aware that they can have a bit of a touristy feel, and some previous diners have left feeling that perhaps the quality doesn’t match up to the price.
Also located along the harbour is the famous La Locanda del Postino, which has become one of Procida’s most popular due to it being featured in the movie.
Despite the above, any of these restaurants undoubtedly offer a delightful setting from which to enjoy a seafood lunch, and doing so is absolutely one of the top things to do in Procida!
Note that, across Italy, many restaurants charge the coperto - and for tables in prime outdoor spots, it can be upward of €4-5 per person.
Tip // If you want something more casual and affordable, consider La Piazzetta. In the Belvedere Piazza Dei Martiri of Coricella’s upper section, we didn’t have any expectations when we grabbed a table at this no-frills typical Italian restaurant. However, the atmosphere, the salads, gnocchi alla sorrentina and Emily’s pizza were all very very good, so it’s one to consider if you’re not dining down by the marina or in search of a more affordable option.
Those of you staying on the island for a few nights, can also opt to enjoy an aperitivo or dinner there instead, when all the day trips and large groups have return to Ischia, Capri, or Naples.
Take in The Most Famous Viewpoint…
“Among those towering rocks, which overlook the water, seagulls and wild doves nest, whose voices can be heard, sometimes plaintive, sometimes cheerful, especially in the early morning. There, on quiet days, the sea is soft and fresh, and settles on the shore like dew.”
L'Isola di Arturo
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If there’s one place everyone must make a pilgrimage to in Procida, then it’s up the cobbled Via Salita Castello for photos from all angles of the colourful houses of Corricella and the quite frankly ridiculous number of boats in the marina.
It’s quite a gradual incline, so definitely best done before you indulge at lunch of paccheri del pescatore or opt for that extra scoop of gelato, and there are a few other viewpoints to stop at or pop into on side streets as you ascend to the main viewpoint by the cannons.
Find the viewpoint here on Google Maps.
Travel Tip // If you prefer to enjoy a very similar view of the Marina with a glass of wine and plate of seafood, then try to nab a spot on the terrace of La Lampara restaurant (Google Maps)
…Then Continue on to Terra Murata
“Below the door’s arched passage, a gloomy half with smokey black crosses…leads to the central square of Terra Murata”
L'Isola di Arturo
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After the Corricella viewpoint, it makes sense to continue on through the darkened archway - replete with an obscured shrine and crucifixes - and up to Terra Murata.
Built on the highest point of Procida, the medieval fortified village is the most prominent reminder that the idyllic waters and islands of the Gulf of Naples were once something to be defended or conquered for all manner of crowns, rather than just a photogenic backdrop or place to top up your Campari levels.
Procida was under the control of the d’Avalos family in the 16th century, but subject to pirate raids by the Saracens and threats from other factions. Within this context, the family built their eponymous palazzo as well as the watchtowers and walls which make up much of the clifftop citadel. The Palazzo d'Avalos subsequently became a Royal palace, then a prison, before closing in the late 1980s and basically being left to crumble.
Whilst wandering around Terra Murata is absolutely something one must do in Procida, it was unfortunately a bit of a damp squib for us due to a failure to plan around several places being closed for lunch.
The Palazzo d’Avalos / Bourbon jail (maps) was something we were looking forward to, but was just shutting up for a (definitely early) lunch as we arrived, and we couldn’t make time for it later in the trip. However, recent reviews state that it isn’t worth the €5 to walk around the historically important but effectively abandoned site - guided tours are available for €10 though which may be something to consider - so do bear that in mind. Hours from May to September are meant to be 9.30am-1pm, then 3pm to 5pm every day (shorter hours in winter, closed Mondays).
Development of jail was something the Mayor planned upon receiving the Capital of Culture in 2022 so this is something that will potentially become more of an attraction in the years to come.
The Casa di Graziella museum, on the second floor of the Palazzo della Cultura a Terra Murata & Civic Museum, was also unfortunately closed for lunch when we passed by.
Whilst the breathtaking views and drinks in the sunshine on Punta dei Monaci (maps) more than made up for it, as well as the beautiful Abbey of San Michele (maps), do just double check the opening hours before you head up and try to avoid overlapping with lunchtime closures.
Please remember to dress and act appropriately in the Abbey/Cathedral.
Top Tip // The most captivating perspectives on Terra Murata and its imposing position on the clifftop are only available by drone or from the water - this is a highly-rated small group boat tour.
Relax at the Beach
“It has various beaches with light and delicate sand, and other smaller shores, covered with pebbles and shells, and hidden between large cliffs.”
L'Isola di Arturo
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Procida’s black sand beaches with House of Bourbon blue parasols lack some of the dolce vita vibes you’ll expect and find elsewhere in southern Italy, and the tones of the sea are more inky than azure.
This is likely why it’s not known primarily as a beach destination for foreign travellers, and remained relatively under the radar as a summer holiday pick, but they are perfectly fine and pleasant for a day of relaxation on the sand.
A positive for those that prefer a bargain day by the sea is that, unlike many beaches in Italy, lidos do not dominate, and there is ample spiagge libere to lay your towel down.
There are about seven beaches to choose from, and we’ve shared our thoughts on them below to help you choose the best one for you:
Spiaggia Chiaia
Conveniently situated just around the corner and down some stone stairs from our Airbnb, this was our favourite stretch of sand in Procida. With a jovial beach club owner who loves Scotland and makes a strong takeaway spritz, calm waters and a long stretch of free beach before and after the rocks, this is our pick if you’re looking for a beach day in Procida.
It also offers wonderful views out over Terra Murata citadel, Capri and Vesuvius.
One important point to be aware of before planning your beach day is that Chiaia, whilst beautifully sunny in the morning, becomes shaded in the mid-late afternoon.
You can access this beach via a path and heading down the stone steps here.
Pozzo Vecchio
The most famous beach on Procida - keep reading to find out why - the beach club here has a highlight reel of Italian film stars and footballers who have spent time at it. Relatively hidden away at the end of a long, historical residential street and beneath the cemetery cliff, it’s pleasant enough with calm waters but not somewhere we’d want to spend all day.
Find it here on Google Maps - and take note of the bus timetables if you don’t plan on walking / bicycling back to your accommodation!
Next to Pozzo Vecchio, you’ll find Spiaggia di Punta Ottimo - it’s quite difficult to access so we didn’t visit, but may be a good option if looking for somewhere quieter during the busy summer season.
Chiaiolella and Ciraccio
Separated by rocky sea stacks, these two stretches of volcanic sand collectively form the island’s longest beach. Due to the shallow waters and ease of access, they are popular with families and you’ll find a number of clubs offering sunbeds and snack bars. Their location on the south west of the island also makes them an ideal spot from which to enjoy the sunset. Find them here on Google Maps
Note that Chiaiolella is also referred to as Ciracciello.
Spiaggia Lingua
The small, fine pebble beach just a short walk from the port was our least favourite on Procida, but remains a popular choice in the summer months. There’s one lido here which rents out sunbeds and offers simple meals, and the rest of the beach is free for you to lay down your towel wherever you fancy. Find it here on Google Maps.
On the other side of the port, you’ll find Spiaggia Silurenza.
Did you know? // Amongst the various films shot in Procida, Il Postino is the most revered.
Set on the island, the 1994 Oscar-winning film tells the fictional story of the friendship between Chilean exile poet Pablo Neruda and the local postman. Whilst Neruda is very much real - we first learned of him and his work in the city of Valparaiso - the plot of the ‘Postman’ is fictional: the poet did stay in neighbouring Capri for a short time, but Neruda never lived in Procida.
After it became the backdrop for an important scene in the movie, Spiaggia Cala del Pozzo Vecchio is now more commonly known as Il Postino Beach. You’ll also see a few signs dotted around for other locations featured in the film, including La Locanda del Postino, a restaurant in Marina Corricella, plus the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and Piazza di Martiri found a little further up the hill.
In 2010, a piazza was named after Massimo Troisi, who wrote and starred in Il Postino but tragically died twelve hours after filming was completed.
Follow In The Footsteps of Elsa Morrante
Even today, Italy has a weak narrative tradition. Beautiful, magnificent, very carefully crafted pages abound, but not the flow of storytelling that despite its density manages to sweep you away. A bewitching example is Elsa Morante. I try to learn from her books, but I find them unsurpassable.
Elena Ferrante
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With her series of books known as ‘The Neapolitan Quartet’, Elena Ferrante was catapulted to a reluctant international fame, becoming the most famous author to weave stories about 20th century life in Napoli and the Bay of Naples.
However it was Elsa Morante, a critically-acclaimed but far less well-known (at least outside of international literary circles) novelist, who is credited by the author herself as her greatest inspiration. Indeed, the pseudonym ‘Elena Ferrante’ is thought by many to pay homage to her post-war predecessor - and sometimes cause of confusion between the two.
The settings for Morante’s books span southern Italy, extending as far north as Rome, and as west as Sicily, but it is a novel set upon Procida for which she is most revered.
Published in 1957 (and winning the Strega Prize - Italy’s most prestigious literary award - in the same year), L’Isola di Arturo tells the coming-of-age story of Arturo Gerace, a teenager whose world changes when his sailor father returns to the island with a young wife.
Neither of us had heard of Elsa Morante prior to visiting Procida, yet remarkably we wound up staying in the apartment where she penned this novel completely by chance!
If you would also like to stay here, you can find the listing on Airbnb. Note that there are a few other apartments available within grounds, which have a quite spectacular shared terrace overlooking the sea at the end of the garden.
For those only on the island for a few hours, her impact is still evident; as the island shaped her words, now her words shape the island with quotes on tourist boards dotted around for the ‘sui passi di Elsa’ highlighting the very same views described in the novel.
Tip // If you want some reading material before or for your Procida and Gulf of Naples trips, you can buy Morrante’s L'Isola di Arturo or start the Neapolitan Quartet with ‘My Brilliant Friend’.
A Procida Boat Trip
“Ah, I would not ask to be a seagull, nor a dolphin; I would be happy to be a scorpion fish, which is the ugliest fish in the sea, just to find myself down there, frolicking in that water.”
L'Isola di Arturo
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Heading off on a boat trip is quite a popular thing to do in Procida, whether that be to simply enjoy being at sea, partake in a sightseeing tour around, or as a practical means to go from one beach to another instead of taking the bus.
If we had a few more days, we would definitely have headed out on the water, but instead we prioritised chilling on the beaches and swimming.
The island tours - giro dell’isola - mostly depart from Marina Corricella or Marina Grande, with several companies offering them with or without swimming stops. This is very highly-rated small group boat tour with swimming and underwater photos included, and free cancellation if you change your mind or the weather forecast looks a bit ropey.
This is another tour with excellent reviews.
Additionally, boat trips are offered by Procida Sea View (Instagram) and our Airbnb host recommended snorkelling boat trips with Giante (Facebook). Prices are around €25-50 per person, depending on the group size, tour type, and quality of boat.
Alternatively, you could splash out and rent your own boat for the day with a company called Il Porticciolo! We did this in the Calbarian town of Tropea, and it was great fun with no licence or experience required.
Lastly, you could simply opt for a cheeky transfer to kill two birds with one stone and get a sample of the views back from the water. The taxi/transfer boats run a few routes, and we’ve covered these in our section on ‘How To Get Around Procida’ later in the post.
Travel Tip // Vivara is a small nature reserve off the coast of Procida, and the remants of a volcanic crater. Linked by a short bridge, the ‘little sister’ island was once a popular place for people to go walking on the weekends or find a secluded place by the protected waters. Unfortunately, during our stay in 2024, the bridge’s access gates were shut and all reports were of an ongoing dispute between private owners and the government. There was also concern about how good a job was actually being down to preserve the environment on the island.
Subsequent research makes it appear the situation hasn’t changed - though boat tours still include it on their route - so we suggest not going out of your way to arrive there on foot until you hear something definitive. If and when that happens, do share your advice and experiences in the comments so we can keep the Procida guide updated for travellers like you.
Lemons With Everything
Whilst the Amalfi Coast produces Campania’s most famous lemons, Procida has a long history of cultivating its very own variety.
Handily referred to as the ‘Procida lemon’, for centuries the citrus fruit graced only the tables of those that called the island home. Demand grew in Italy and beyond after Second World War, with many vineyards uprooted to make way for lemon groves. Due to this, you will see lemons growing all over Procida - a sight to warm the soul - and we even had an orchard of them at our Airbnb.
Lemon-spiked drinks, pastas, and pastries are also quite ubiquitous on menus, and you’ll find several specialist shops selling a variety of lemon-laced treats and toiletries too.
A few to seek out are:
· La Lingua di Bue - this decadent desert consists of flaky pastry filled with a lemon custard cream, and the island’s best can be found at Bar Roma Pasticceria (maps)
· The delicious lemon granita at Felice Mare (maps)
· Insalate di Limone is a super local salad made with fresh lemon, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil, red pepper, and mint.
· Fogliolí and Scorza are liquors made of the leaf and peel of the lemon (not the pulp, as with the classic limoncello). The official retailer can be found in the centre of Procida, but you’ll find it stocked in most shops on the island. On our wanderings, we stopped by two tourist-facings shops with samples of these, as well lemon jams, sweets, soaps, and various other locally made citrus-infused goods.
Tip // If you would really like to get to know the island’s ingredients and traditional dishes - as well as give yourself a memorable meal - then consider booking a four-course cooking class in a local family’s home for lunch or dinner. Find out more, read the stellar reviews, and book here
The Sejà Restaurant Experience
It seemed like Fate led us to Seja only two months after its opening.
Created by chef Aniello and manager Lucio - a pair of young brothers returning to the island - and named by their mother, it offers a modern dining experience underpinned by local traditions and flavours.
Whilst we love to eat, and especially love Italian cuisine, we’ve never classed ourselves as true foodies. Throughout our travels, we’ve often encountered fine dining restaurants with decadent tasting menus, but they often also come with month-long waiting lists, several dishes that appeal to neither of us and eye-watering prices.
Sejà was a breath of fresh air.
We had stumbled upon it one afternoon, got chatting to the brothers, and decided to treat ourselves the following evening. Their seven-course tasting menu was exquisite, and far more affordable than others you’ll find elsewhere in Italy - but that doesn’t mean the quality or experience is in any way lessened.
The menu changes with the seasons, and whist the dishes have influences from across the globe their focus on local ingredients maintains a close connection with the island. Importantly, Lucio was happy to make substitutions for our dietary requirements (pescatarian and vegetarian), which isn’t always possible or desirable on certain tasting menus.
The Details | You can find Sejà here on Google Maps. The indoor restaurant is a relatively small space, so if visiting Procida in the summer months, we highly recommend booking a table in advance; the best way is to call or contact via their Instagram.
This is going to be a special occasion place for many diners, so gives one an opportunity to dress up and make an evening of it!
Enjoy The Pace of Island Life
Much tourism and transport is tilted toward the north east corner of the island, with Marina Grande the commercial centre and connections hub. A stroll along the colourful front and a mooch around Via Vittorio Emanuele is pleasant enough, and most will likely have a meal for convenience before or after a ferry, but it’s not where the magic of resides.
What captivated us most in Procida was how low-key much of the island felt beyond the day tripper hotspots, with several streets, stores, and scenes feeling like they were of a different era. We’ve travelled quite a bit in southern Italy and that’s not an uncommon sentiment, but in Procida we really did feel transported (save for the e-bikes hurtling towards us).
That sense won’t be as clear on a day trip, which is why we so often urge people to slow travel instead of ticking off a bucket list at breakneck speed; staying here for a few nights or more will showcase why the island is quite different from the crowded, hurried, and overcooked atmosphere that mass tourism has brought to too many places in Italy.
However, we know the rhythm may actually be too slow for some, as this island village that reluctantly wears its tourism destination title can feel really, really quiet at times.
Travel Tip // There are a few bigger supermarkets, including CRAI, Dok, and Conan, but we encourage you to make a point of grocery shopping at the remaining small, independent panificios, greengrocers, and alimentari with all sorts of fantastic Italian produce instead. Our late afternoon visits to the two by our apartment - where the wine was dispensed from steel barrels to your home-brought bottle, the grocer recommended the best tomatoes for our salad, and the deli man recommended cheeses to try - were a highlight of each day.
Where To Stay in Procida
With its size and walkability, and the fact that you’re never really that far away from where you would rather be that day, choosing where to stay in Procida is much less of an onerous decision than picking an accommodation in somewhere like Napoli or Ischia.
As mentioned, most tourism and transport is tilted toward the north east corner of the island in and around the Corricella and newer, busier Marina Grande. If staying along the Marina Grande, you’ll always be able to reach somewhere else easily and have convenient options on your doorstep, but it’s not the prettiest or calmest area for other aspects of the Procida experience.
We’ve done the hard work for you and curated a selection of the best places to stay on the island, with something to suit every budget and travel style:
Airbnbs & Apartments
The vast majority of the island’s Airbnb properties are located in and around Corricella, with many old fishing homes and gorgeous sea views on offer. A few of our top picks include:
Torretta Corricella | This historic property has been converted to offer a variety of self-contained apartments of various sizes, all with wonderful terraces overlooking the famous Corricella harbour.
Charming Corricella | One of few two-bedroom properties in this part of Procida, this property is simply decorated, is literally right on the harbour and has a wonderful little terrace.
Overlooking the Sea | A new but sensitively built one-bed property located along Corricella harbour (the terrace is literally right next to the water). Perfect for a couple or single traveller.
La Casa della Scrittrice Elsa Morante | The wonderful little Airbnb that we stayed in, where Elsa Morante is said to have written L’Isola di Arturo. Tucked away in a quiet corner of Procida, in an old palazzo, this large two-bed apartment at the top of a spiral staircase is traditional in its design, with many original features including gorgeous tile floors and a balcony overlooking a lemon grove.
There are several apartments within the same vast property - which we would recommend even if it didn’t have links to the writer - and you can find them all here.
Le Giuggiole | This modern two-bedroom house located just a stone's throw from Ciraccio beach (on the west of the island) has just undergone a renovation, and is a great pick for a family. Internally, it’s immaculate, but its real selling point is the gorgeous patio area surrounded by lemon groves.
Another great option in the same area (and still just five minutes from the beach) is Casa Antonio, a traditional one-bed apartment in a 19th century farmhouse.
Alice’s House | A short walk from the main harbour, but along a quieter side street, this recently renovated studio apartment is ideal for a couple. It’s been done up to a high standard with a modern feel, and benefits from a wonderful balcony looking out over Procida.
Love peace, quiet and rustic vibes? You absolutely must take a look at Casa di Giovannino u funer'.
If you’d prefer to be in the Chiaiolella neighbourhood at the south west of the island (from where you can catch a killer sunset), three excellent options are Casa Baìna, Casina Bonita and Casetta Mamà.
Hotels in Procida
San Michele | Located in the heart of Coricella harbour, the boutique hotel San Michele offers a ‘bohemian luxury’ experience, with a clear colour palette and aesthetic that extends throughout the property. Many of the rooms have views overlooking the water also.
If you’d prefer to be on the other side of the island, be sure to check out La Torre near Chiaiolella Beach. A truly stunning boutique hotel, it offers just a handful of rooms set amongst gardens. The interior design throughout is wonderful, the views fantastic and previous guests have only good things to say. We’d stay in a heartbeat!
Villa Caterina B&B | A little simpler than the above two options, this B&B offers light, modern and tastefully decorated rooms, alongside a lovely terrace and garden. Guests speak very highly of the breakfast and the helpful host.
Other little B&Bs and small get houses that caught our eye were Villa Rosalia, Vento di Mare, and B&B Mediterraneo.
Piccolo Tirreno Hotel Residence is a fantastic budget pick, with rooms under £90 a night even in high season.
If you’d like a pool, consider Solcalante or Insula Boutique Hotel.
Travel Tip // The Wi-Fi in our apartment here and across the water in Ischia was quite poor, so just arrive without expectations to be a digital nomad or stream lots of stuff at high speed.
How To Get Around Procida
Everyone will arrive at the main port of Procida in Marina Grande (maps), where you can then walk, bike, catch a bus, or take a taxi on to your accommodation or first stop on a day trip.
During your stay, most will depend on a combination of walking, bus and bike to get around the villages and beaches, with taxis only necessary for certain journeys, speed or convenience.
Note that, despite its diminutive size, it can take a little longer than anticipated to get from one side to the other due to the layout or requirement to wait for a bus, so just plan accordingly.
On Foot
Although Procida has a strictly enforced ban on non-resident’s vehicles from April to October, it is far from a ‘traffic free’ environment.
Indeed, for an island that is incredibly walkable and closed off to incoming vehicles, it’s actually quite frantic and difficult to navigate some of its narrow, pavement free streets. Fat tire electric bikes are very popular with locals and used by young kids en masse, and they dominate at times, zipping around faster than most Vespas. There are also resident’s vehicles, taxis, electric buggies and the wider buses.
Therefore, much to our surprise, certain narrow streets can be surprisingly crowded with transport, with pedestrians squeezed up against the wall on both sides in order to give way.
Whilst not necessarily an issue - especially if you’re paying attention - it’s definitely something to be aware of when walking to/from places, and definitely ran counter to what we expected to find on the little island.
Despite the above, if you’re physically able, walking is the best way to experience and join up the small, colourful historic villages. From our Airbnb, for example, it was pleasant and easy to reach both Coricella and the Marina on foot, as well as the beaches.
The Procida Bus Network
There are six bus lines that connect the entire island, most of which begin and end their loop at the small ‘Porto’ terminal by Procida’s ferry port in Marina Grande (find it here). This is where everyone will arrive by boat from Naples, Capri, or Ischia, so it’s very convenient to connect as soon as you arrive, and the tourist information office is in the same area if you’re unsure, or want to grab a map etc.
· L1 / Porto, Chiaiolella, Sant’Antonio, Porto | every 10-20 minutes
· L2 / Porto, Chiaiolella, Solchiaro, Sant’Antonio, Porto | every 30-60 minutes
· L3 / Chiaiolella, Sant’Antonio, Piazza Posta, Pozzo Vecchio | every 50 minutes
· C1 / Porto, Pozzo Vecchio, Via Saletta, Sant’Antonio, Porto | every 20-40 minutes
· C2 / Porto, Terra Murata, Corricella, Porto | every 20-40 minutes
· L7 / Porto, Terra Murata, Sant’Antonio, Ospedale, Porto | every 90 minutes
As you can see, some routes are more frequent than others, and it’s best to view the timetables as a useful guide, rather than indicator of punctuality (sometimes they are late as they’ll tend to wait for ferries and hydrofoil passengers to disembark).
The most recent timetable is available here on the EAV website, but it doesn’t include all lines - if you find an updated one, please do let us know.
The price of a single 60-minute ticket costs €1.20 if bought in advance (either from the Caremar ticket office, various bars, tobacconists and newsstands) or €1.40 if bought onboard the bus (cash best), making it a super affordable way to get about the island. Note that the ticket allows you to board / connect with multiple buses within the 60 minutes.
Bus stops are numerous and marked around the island, but you may have to pay attention to request a stop near your accommodation on certain services.
Whilst an affordable way to get around the island, it’s important to anticipate that during the summer months the Procida buses can be crowded and busy, and you may find yourself having to wait around quite a while for the next one to show up; this is why we found it to be quicker and more pleasant to just walk around and between most places.
Procida Taxis
At the port of Marina Grande, you also will find taxis to take you onward to your accommodation, or first stop on the day trip. Alongside regular taxis, there are a few small tuk-tuks.
If you are staying on the island, it’s not a bad idea to get a business card / number from one of the taxi drivers on arrival in case you’re stuck somewhere waiting for a bus, or want to have dinner on the other side of the island one evening.
One taxi service is offered by the wonderfully named Tony Monaco - and his WhatsApp number is +39 333 30 51 706
Bike Rentals
At the port of Marina Grande, you’ll also find a number of companies offering e-bike rental and for day trips to Procida, renting on arrival off the ferry is a very convenient option.
This is definitely amongst the most popular ways to get around the island for locals and, unfortunately, non-electric bicycles simply didn’t seem to be offered any more by these companies, which is a real shame.
Prices can vary a little depending upon seasonality, number in your group and company, but the typical rates are:
· Fat tyre e-bike / €25 per day
· City e-bike / €20 per day
The price includes a chain and lock, plus a helmet if you’d like one. Make sure to clarify whether the rate + return time is based on a 10-hour rental or 24-hour rental period - some require it back by 6pm.
If you’re staying in Procida, we’d recommend checking with your accommodation if they offer an e-bike rental service, as this will likely be cheaper than by the port and may include delivering it to your door (our Airbnb host charged just €15 per day).
It’s also possible to rent a scooter, but honestly don’t think it’s necessary; a bike is more than adequate.
Transfers & Taxi Boats
Your final option for getting around Procida is to opt for the taxi boats and transfers available at both Marina Corricella and Marina Grande. A few routes and prices are:
· Marina Grande to Corricella | €7 per person
· Corricella to Marina Chiaiolella | €8 per person
· Corricella to Chaia Beach | €5 per person
How To Get To Procida
Whether it’s a day trip or for longer stays, the majority of you will be arriving by direct boat from Naples (35-60 minutes), Ischia (15-30 minutes).
There is no airport on the island, nor any train service, and there are no direct routes from Capri, Sorrento, or the Amalfi Coast.
The daily boats depart frequently, and we have written a ‘routes’ guide with all the essential information on transport connections, the different companies, ticket types, and mistakes to avoid in this post: How To Get To Procida From Naples.
For timetables and tickets, we recommend looking + booking via FerryHopper and DirectFerries.
Given that Procida is just a short boat ride away from both Naples and Ischia, and the ease of getting around the island independently, we really don’t think going on a tour is necessary for a day trip. However, if that works better with your southern Italian route and travel style, then consider the following:
· From Ischia: Procida Island Full-Day Boat Tour with Lunch
· From Naples: Procida Island Day Trip with Lunch
Alternatively, for a really special experience - that also allows you to visit two of the most popular Phlegraean Islands - you could hire a private yacht from Naples and set sail to Ischia and Procida on your own timetable for a true Italian experience.
If you’re using Naples as your base, then we highly recommend checking out this post for more idea and inspiration: The 7 Best Day Trips from Naples, Italy