A Guide to Sidi Kaouki | Morocco's Wonderfully Sleepy Surf Town
Looking for where to stay or things to do in Sidi Kaouki, Morocco? Keep reading!
Updated October 2024
"Excusez-moi, monsieur, d'où part le bus pour sidi kaouki?", we asked the wating taxi driver.
Free from the narrow streets of the medina, we stood in the centre of Essaouira's large square, and its make-shift bus station. Placards in windows with un-pronouncable destinations but none appeared to be heading to Sidi Kaouki.
"You speak English? The bus next bus leaves at 3 pm, but I take you for 150Dh."
As it happens, our bus was to found 150 metres away, and was leaving in 5 minutes. (Yeah, we know, never trust a taxi driver.)
Packed in tight between chattering older women in colourful head scarves, we hung on to the frayed rope above and turned our heads toward the breeze. Understanding little of what was said, our eyes instead fell instead to the changing landscape outside the window, where towns gave way to the country, and argan trees enveloped the land, always searching for the goats that call this part of Morocco home. A young baby gazed up, a smile spreading across his round, full face and the young mother in broken French asks where it is that we are headed. As we announce Sidi Kaouki, the ocean came into sight, and wind-worn signs in faded colours announced that we had arrived.
We were told of Sidi Kaouki on our arrival to Essaouira, a town of white-washed walls, a strong wind and a delightful bohemian vibe.
For many that visit the place made famous by Jimi Hendrix, the Morocco they long for is one of surf and solitude - a far cry from the hectic medina of Marrakech. It is perhaps of little surprise then, that the most natural spot to visit next is Sidi Kaouki; a wonderfully sleepy little village just thirty minutes away.
A place where the European influence is clear and where we found ourselves speaking more Spanish than French, yet a place that sits so perfectly alongside what is clearly an African backdrop.
Camels chew nonchalantly on the beach, and old men sell hand-woven rugs on the road, and whilst those that venture into the cool water in search of virgin waves do so in wetsuits and bikinis, holidaying Moroccans sit upon warm sand in full islamic dress.
Perhaps it is the sleepiness that allows these two worlds to so perfectly co-exist, but once visited, it’s not difficult to appreciate what continues to draw travellers in.
In this guide we’ve covered everything you need to know to plan your perfect visit to Sidi Kaouki, including the best things to do, where to eat and where to stay.
Sidi Kaouki | The Essentials
Arrive / Taxi, bus, self-drive or transfer
Chill / On the village’s main beach
Surf / Most popular thing to do in Sidi Kaouki with surf spots for beginners to advanced
Adventure / Get a thrill on an ATV
Stay / Surfers will love Chill House Surf Camp, Auberge De La Plage is a fantastic option for chill backpackers whilst House of Omm is an ideal yoga & chill retreat for those that love contemporary style.
Surfing in Sidi Kaouki
Whilst Sidi Kaouki attracts all manner of travellers, it’s particularly popular with surfers (and the sort of place that those with a penchant for waves can arrive for a few days and find themselves leaving a month later).
Summer brings with it super strong Atlantic winds which means that winter is widely considered to offer the best conditions (particularly between November and April), and there are various spots along the coast catering for all levels from complete novices to advanced surfers with no fear.
Most will opt for the waves that break along the main beach but the super experienced should consider Le Grotte, located a few kilometres north.
Many hostels/hotels can source equipment for single or multi-day rentals, but there are also surf boards available from the kiosks in the centre of the village. Prices vary from company to company - and can fluctuate dependent upon how long you’d like to rent, plus your negotiation skills - but expect to pay around €5 per hour for board rental, or €15 - €20 per day.
Lessons are offered by many companies in town and you can expect to pay €20 - €30 for a two hour class.
This list is by no means exhaustive, but some surf companies to check out include:
Alternatively, if you’re really serious about learning or improving, you could sign up for a surf camp in Sidi Kaouki. These include your accommodation and food plus a specific number of hours of tuition, often alongside extra activities like yoga.
Two highly-rated options are this three-day yoga and surf camp in Holy Surf Maroc and this four-day surf camp at Smaylo Surf School.
If windsurfing or kitesurfing is more your thing, the good news is that they are also both popular things to do in Sidi Kaouki, with most surf shops and many accommodations offering equipment rental and sometimes lessons.
Top Tip // If you’d love a lesson or two along the waves but hadn’t initially planned to leave Marrakech, consider joining this highly-rated overnight surf trip which includes two lessons (one in Essaouira and one in Sidi Kaouki).
Alternative Things to Do in Sidi Kaouki
As we’ve already mentioned, you don’t have to be a surfer (or kitesurfer or windsurfer for that matter) to enjoy Sidi Kaouki, and there is plenty else to draw in the average traveller.
Horse & Camel Riding
Taking a horse or camel ride along the beach is a super popular thing to do here. Indeed, before you notice the surfers in the water, you’ll likely notice the animals upon the sand.
Local day-trippers tend to opt for one-hour rides along the coast, but full-day experiences have become increasingly popular.
When we were in Sidi Kaouki, the horses and camels that we saw looked to be in good health, and with owners that cared about their welfare. However, as the use of animals in tourism is something we are naturally concerned about and take very seriously, we really don’t want to recommend this activity without any caveats.
Instead, we would love to hear from readers that have had a positive experience with a local company or ranch, and can vouch for the welfare of the animals involved before whole-heartedly recommending this activity.
Know // Prices for a one-hour ride along the beach at the time of our visit were 120 Dh per hour for horses, and camels cost 80 Dh). If these have changed significantly, please do let us know in the comments.
Quad Bike Rental
Dunes, dirt roads, rugged landscapes and iconic landmarks like Dar Sultan Palace and Bourj El Baroud.
Sidi Kaouki is kind of perfect for a day’s quad bike rental.
Most accommodations will be able to arrange a full or half-day quad tour or rental, but if you’d prefer to get an idea of pricing and even book in advance, we recommend checking out this company that offers tours for 390 Dhs per person.
It’s also possible to join an organised day trip from Essaouira for six hours of ATVing around the Sidi Kaouki circuit. This tour is highly-rated.
Relax!
Sure, there's plenty of things to do in this magical little village, but there's a good reason why many people visit and end up doing very little - Sidi Kaouki is the sort of place you go for a night, stay for a week and barely leave your hammock.
And, quite frankly, there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. After all, that's what Sidi Kaouki's beach is made for!
The northern part of the beach, towards the main village, is scattered with umbrellas and sun loungers (most in need of a little repair but still oddly photogenic). These cost around 50Dh for the day; if you want one, it won’t take long for the guy in charge to come find you.
Top Tip // At the southern section of the beach you’ll find the estuary (where the river meets the sea). If you happen to be in Sidi Kaouki during the winter months, it’s worth taking a walk down to this point for the chance to spot the wild flamingos who pass through here every year.
Where to Stay in Sidi Kaouki
For a small town, Sidi Kaouki has an amazing choice of accommodation, with everything from backpacker hostels and simple guest houses to fancier hotels with contemporary styling.
Chill House Surf Camp | The epitome of laid-back surf culture in Sidi Kaouki, where the emphasis is on comfort, community, and connection to the coast, this guest house combines spacious, bright rooms and communal spaces with a pool offering panoramic views. Guests rave about the surf lessons, welcoming hosts, and communal dinners creating an atmosphere that feels like a home away from home.
Auberge De La Plage | If having proper outdoors space (think beautiful gardens and several hammocks) is important to you, then consider this spot. Large and airy open plan communal rooms and tidy bedrooms - and of course, the ubiquitous, but ever wonderful, roof terrace. It's also only £35 for a double!
House of Omm | A serene hideaway designed for guests looking to recharge. Its minimalist approach to design emphasises calmness, making it a perfect base for yoga enthusiasts or those simply seeking a quiet escape. Situated just a short walk from the beach, the hotel provides a peaceful, adults-only environment with rooftop yoga and meditation sessions to help guests disconnect from their busy lives.
Whilst it’s actually located a little further up the coast in Oussane, if on-site yoga and a more eco-focus sounds kind of perfect, be sure to check out Dav Mahal Eco Lodge.
La Maison des Vagues | Just steps from the beach, this boutique hotel blends Moroccan charm with chic design. The spacious, well-appointed rooms offer a blend of comfort and style, while the pool area and sunlit terraces provide a serene spot to unwind after a day of surfing. Guests also speak highly of the on-site restaurant.
Hotel Villa Soleil | Offering comfortable and affordable accommodation just steps from Sidi Kaouki’s surf spots, Hotel Villa Soleil is known for its simple but tastelful spacious rooms, friendly service, and rooftop terrace, this hotel is ideal for travellers looking to experience the authentic coastal lifestyle of the area without overspending.
Two super popular budget-friendly, local-run options are Dar Iziki and Dar Boujdaa.
Sidi Kaouki Al Vent | We only stopped in here for a quick bite to eat, but were so distracted by their amazing terrace and covert wine, that hours passed before we could drag ourselves away. They also happen to have great value doubles that we would have been more than happy to bed down in for a couple of nights.
Where to Eat & Drink
Behind Sidi Kaouki’s shrine, where all the surf kiosks are, you’ll find a number of simple Moroccan restaurants serving up simple plates of fresh seafood, rice and tagines (alongside less traditional dishes like tacos and pizzas).
Many are pretty much of a muchness, but the relatively new, French-owned Bistro Kao (maps) has particularly good reviews and a more modern vibe.
A few minutes walk from the centre of the village, you’ll find Kaouki’s more popular, beach front restaurants including:
· Chez L’Arbi | Cosy little restaurant preparing fantastic tagines that’s a great nighttime option.
· Surf Station | Part accommodation, part restaurant, part surf school, this has all the cool beach shack vibes with lovely views over the ocean. Food seems to a little hit and miss but it’s a good spot for a sunset drink.
· Chez Abdoullah | Local run spot offering simple meals and decent breakfasts.
Hôtel-Restaurant Le Kaouki and La Maison Des Vagues are two of the village’s best hotels that also have on-site restaurants open to guests, and are a good shout if fancy somewhere a little fancier for dinner.
Best Time to Visit Sidi Kaouki
This sort of depends on your reason to visit.
If you’re travelling in Morocco and are just looking for some downtime in a chilled location, Sidi Kaouki is a good option year round. This is especially true in the warmer summer months when the cities become unpleasantly hot but places on the coast like Sidi benefit from the often strong sea breeze.
For those planning a visit purely to surf however, winter is considered to offer the very best conditions (as we mentioned earlier, the winds tend to stop by November). Just be aware that the water temps can get pretty low, even during the summer, so it’s a wet suit all year round sort of destination.
How To Get There
Whilst you can reach Sidi Kaouki from elsewhere in Morocco, for the purposes of this article we’re going to assume that most of you will be travelling directly from Essaouira, just 20 - 30 minutes away.
We’ve written a complete guide on how to get to Sidi Kaouki, but in summary you have the following options:
Bus | There are frequent buses throughout the day (run by 'Lima Buses') leaving from Bab Doukkala, a large square just outside the medina walls - find it here on Google Maps.
These take around 30 minutes and cost 8Dh per person. You can find the full timetable on the company’s website.
Taxi | From the Grand Taxi Stand in Essaouira (maps), you can either take a shared taxi for 15Dh per person, or hire the entire vehicle for around 100Dh.
Bike | When we visited, it was possible to hire bikes and cycle from Essaouira to Sidi Kaouki. Journey time was around about an hour but we couldn’t find an affordable rental place. If you happen to visit this way, we’d love to hear from you in the comments!
Transfer | If you’d prefer to book a private transfer in advance, you can do so here.
A reader has let us know about a shuttle company - Souk to Surf - that offers connections to Sidi Kaouki. The website seems a little fumbly and we can’t work out how to book for this destination specifically (it doesn’t seem to available as an option), but if you give them a go, we’d love to hear of your experience!
