Planning a road trip stop or day trip to the southern Blue Eye in Albania?

We've shared everything you need to know before you go.

When it comes to a famous pair of blue byes, Frank Sinatra can take a hike.

The mesmerising Blue Eyes of Albania, split between the north and south, sparkle in the sunshine and draw hundreds towards them.

In this guide, we’ve shared everything you need to know about the most famous Blue Eye in Albania: Syri I Kaltër. Situated 13 miles/22km outside the coastal city of Saranda, it’s an impossibly deep natural spring, responsible for gushing out much of the country’s fresh water at a rate of 18,400 litres per second!

Its beauty and setting in lush nature is what makes it such a popular day trip though, but the site and experience is unfortunately now on the ‘big tourism’ trajectory: contrary to spending a summer day immersed in remote nature and submerged in turquoise waters, it’s better to anticipate crowds, electric scooters, and much more modern developments in the vicinity.

Also, although many expect that they can swim in the Blue Eye itself, this is now actually forbidden (although you can get in the nearby river waters).

In short, there’s a lot we wish we’d known before we’d arrived.

To help you plan ahead, we’ve shared an honest perspective on visiting the Blue Eye in Albania, with lots of advice to help you get there, avoid the crowds, swim responsibly, and have the best experience possible!

The Blue Eye Essentials

Where / A day trip from Sarandë, Ksamil, or Gjirokaster
What / A deep, high-pressure natural spring and nature site
Go / Easiest to drive + park there, but some public buses go
Alt / Otherwise, it’s a new shuttle bus from Sarandë or joining a highly-rated Blue Eye tour
Entry / Tickets cost 50 LEK per person (€0.50)
Know / It’s an easy 2km walk from the entrance to the water, but scooters and a train (!) also available
Dip / Swimming is forbidden in the Blue Eye itself, but permitted in the chilly river that flows from it
Time / Open from 8am, set aside 2-3 hours and we recommend arriving early to avoid the crowds
Plan / The Best Things To Do in Albania

How To Get To The Blue Eye

As mentioned, there are actually two well-known sites called the Blue Eye in Albania: one outside Theth in the far northern mountains, and another outside the village of Muzinë in the much hotter, more visited south.

It’s not uncommon for travellers to confuse or conflate the two.

We've visited both and, to avoid any doubt, this specific guide is about the southern Blue Eye close to Sarandë, which is the more famous of the two and regularly featured as one of the best things to do in Albania.

You can find it here on Google Maps

It's an easy day trip from the two popular beach towns of Sarandë and Ksamil, whilst for road trippers, it's a good idea to stop there on your way to the coast from the historical city of Gjirokaster (or vice-versa).

Here are your options to arrive.

Drive & Park

This is the quickest and most convenient way, especially if you have your own wheels. Distances and travel times are:

· From Sarandë / 22km - 40 minutes
· From Ksamil / 34km - 1 hour
· From Gjirokaster / 37km - 1 hour

We did a road trip in Albania, and highly recommend it as a way for slow travellers to really get to know more of the country and go off-the-beaten-track - check out our route here.

If a full road trip doesn't fit with your travel style, budget, or holiday plans, then consider renting a car for the day from your coastal base to visit the Blue Eye and one or two other stops.

It's a straightforward drive, and you'll arrive at the surprisingly big and busy paved Blue Eye car park (here on Google Maps). It's cash only, paid at the portakabin, and the recently increased prices are:

· 0-3 hours | 300 LEK (€3)

· 3-4 hours | 400 LEK (€4)

· 5-8 hours | 600 LEK (€6)

The vast majority of visitors will only need up to 3 hours, but if you expect to walk the trails around the Blue Eye and have a slow lunch on the site, perhaps opt for 4. Whilst the car park is much larger and better than we expected, it does get full in the summer season, so you may have to wait for a space of really squeeze in to whatever's available.

Note there are some small areas close to the ticket entrance where you can park for free with no trouble in low season but, at the start of summer 2024, there were various reports from travellers of intimidation and a fake policeman getting very aggressive toward them, including a couple of instances where he hit their rental car.

We're all for saving a few quid but, for peace of mind, just go to the big car park.

Plan | Our Essential Guide To Driving in Albania

Book | Check prices and availability on Rentalcars.com or AutoEurope

Travel Tip / If you are travelling to or from Gjirokaster and the coast, make sure to set your Google Maps or GPS to go via the Blue Eye, as it will usually sends you via a different, quicker road.

Public Transport

The Blue Eye is remote, and options are more limited than in previous years due to a new, quicker road diverting most public buses elsewhere. The two options are:

· The Blue Eye Shuttle by KMG Tourism Group run multiple daily round-trip buses from Saranda to the Blue Eye. Departures start at 8.30am, cost 1500 lek per person (€15), and you can find timetables and more information on their Facebook page.

· Buses running between Saranda-Gjirokaster still go via the Blue Eye. However, it's recommended that you confirm this with the driver before paying + boarding. In Saranda, the buses pick up around Rruga Flamurit (maps), whilst in Gjirokaster it's by the gas station (maps). Expect to pay 400 lek (€3-4), cash only.

You'll be dropped off next to the car park, and we recommend having a firm idea on the certainty and timings of return buses to avoid getting stuck!

Quick piece of advice though: buses in Albania don't run like you may expect and can be unreliable. We highly recommend double-checking schedules and routes before firming up your day trip plans - information can be tough to find online, so asking your accommodation host or a local is a good idea. Gjirafa is a new website allows tickets to be booked in advance and includes some schedules, but unfortunately doesn't include all departures / connections for the Blue Eye.

There is no direct bus from Ksamil (let us know if that changes), meaning you'd have to take a bus or taxi to Saranda to connect to the public bus or shuttle. We are huge advocates of going the slow and long, sometimes overly convoluted way to places, but do not recommend bothering with that route.

Update Requests | As we did not personally take the bus to the Blue Eye, we know the above is less specific than we'd normally be in our guide. If you are able to share your own experiences and tips, or timetables and prices, so that we can help travellers like you and update the post, please do share in the comments!

A Blue Eye Tour

If you don't have a rental car, or the bus option doesn't suit your travel style, then there are a few tours that will enable you to visit the Blue Eye. The majority available to book in advance online (with free cancellation) are from Saranda, but if you do find a good one from Ksamil, let us know in the comments.

Blue Eye Tour Saranda | Round-trip transfers from your accommodation in Sarande and an English-speaking guide

This tour is another highly-rated option from Saranda.

If you would prefer a full-day tour, then consider this tour from Saranada which combines the history and culture of beautiful Gjirokaster as well as your Blue Eye visit - its rating and reviews are exceptional.

Blue Eye Spring and Lekursi Castle Sunset Tour | Combine your visit to the Bleu Eye with a sunset visit to Lekursi Castle.

Coastal Jeep Safari | A highly-rated full-day experience, allowing you to discover more of the Albanian Riviera, beaches, castles, and the Blue Eye. Departs from both Saranda and Ksamil.

How Long You Need & When To Visit

Tickets to the Blue Eye cost 50 lek per adult (€0.50), and you can only purchase them from the entrance next to the car park (cash only).

The site is open from 8am to 8pm in summer, but you may be able to get in a little earlier.

Aside from setting your expectations on what the Blue Hole is, and what it most certainly isn't, the most crucial step to elevating your experience of the site is appreciating just how crowded it can become in summer.

As with most sites that feature on nearly every itinerary, the balance has tipped toward having too many people there at once, therefore arriving as early as you can in high holiday season is the best idea.

Alternatively, gamble and turn up in the late afternoon after the peak time for crowds and tours has passed (i.e. after 4pm).

If possible, try to avoid weekends, when many more locals will be here enjoying the site.

We suggest setting aside 2-3 hours from arrival to exit if you are planning to walk the 4km in-and-out, go on a bit of the main trail, have a dip, and perhaps a drink or food at the restaurant by the water.

If you are just turning up to see it and take photos, then you can comfortably trim that down to 2 hours tops.

Note that the restaurant and various other businesses operating here are closed outside the summer season (even the big car park), and that would obviously result in a very different experience.

The Walk To The Water

Many visitors are surprised that visiting the Blue Eye involves a decent walk from the car park and entrance.

It's just under 2km along a smooth new asphalt road and pavement that runs to the left side of the water, but it is neither scenic nor memorable, and more akin to walking next to a reservoir than being in nature.

It's exposed with very little shade available, so another reason to avoid turning up at peak heat time (and a reason to bring a hat)

Factor in around 30 minutes for it, and you will have to walk the same road + distance back out - so that’s 4kms in total.

However, there are now three alternative options catering to every type of visitor.

The Easy Ways

After the ticket entrance, you'll see several guys renting e-scooters for around 500 lek (€5/hour).

We wouldn't do this, but many do and it would admittedly add a bit of fun to the forgettable walk in/out. You may be able to find a cheaper rate the further you go in or if there's a group of you.

Alternatively, for families with young children or less mobile travellers, there is now a small train from the entrance, costing 300 lek one-way (€3)

The Other Way

The addition of a tarmac road and a small train should underline how far the Blue Eye has shifted from what it once was.

If you're arriving and would like to make the walk in more interesting, then you should consider taking the lesser-trodden, unsignposted, and overgrown in parts trail around the lake.

We recommend checking out the reviews under the start point pin on Google Maps to learn more about the route and path - alternatively, it’s probably on maps.me.

Do note though that it's also possible to walk a decent chunk of this trail if you arrive via the asphalt road.

Things To Do At The Blue Eye

The Viewpoint / Once you’ve walked or scootered in, cross the bridge and you’ll be in an area where there’s various signs and a small souvenir shop. In front of you is the actual Blue Eye - the source of much of Albania’s fresh water - and the best place to be mesmerised by the water is on the viewing deck set slightly above it on the other side.

The Trail / Continue on from the viewing deck, and you’ll be on the trail. This takes you through the lush forest along the upper left side of the lake, with some nice viewpoints and secluded spots. It is possible to continue on this trail to the car park - which becomes quite overgrown - but we suggest turning back after 10-15 minutes or when you feel like it.

The ground is mostly dusty and uneven, with some newer gravel steps, and could be done in any footwear.

The Swimming / As we’ve already mentioned, it is forbidden to swim in the Blue Eye for environmental and safety reason.

There are clear signs up that are impossible to miss, and it’s also fenced off.

Unfortunately, you will see many many people totally ignoring that, jumping in from the viewpoint deck and also sneaking in through the fence for a photo opp. It is as frustrating as it is unsurprising, and really disrespectful. You will sometimes see a security guard turn up and blow a whistle, but the cycle soon starts all over again.

We strongly encourage you not to add to the problem, and don’t be dickhead.

Of course, some of you may be supremely disappointed to learn of the fact you can’t swim in the Blue Eye, but also confused about why there are so many photos of people swimming in our guide.

Well, we checked and triple-checked when we were there and, whilst it is not permitted to swim in the Blue Eye itself - the deep, high-pressure fenced off area - you are permitted to swim further downstream in the river. The most popular spot to take a swim is next to the restaurant - it’s fairly shallow, and relatively easy to get in and out (it’s where we got the photo of Emily at the top of this post).

Be aware that the water here is permanently in the 12°C range and verrrrrry fresh. It actually felt closer to a glacier lake than anything else, and many don’t actually go in once they realise how cold it is or dip their toe!

Others will find it wonderfully refreshing though, even if only dipping in for a few minutes.

If access or the rules change, please do let us know in the comments so we can update the post!

Did You Know // Unfathomably deep, despite the constant pressure bubbling up against them, divers have managed to make it 50 meters down into the Blue Eye - and it goes even further than that! We became advanced divers in Honduras, and have regularly gone down to 30 metres, and simply cannot get our heads around the potential depths of the Blue Eye! Quite terrifying actually.

The Restaurant / If you’re not in a rest to make it to your next destination, consider grabbing lunch at the busy restaurant we mention above.

Expect traditional Albanian fare at somewhat inflated prices - and with fairly mixed reviews of quality. We didn’t eat here, and it was all quite chaotic, but it was fine for a few beers and shade.

Do note however, that they prioritise the tables for those having a full meal and staff will quite rudely insist that you leave your table if only having a drink.

Find the restaurant here.

Note that you don’t have to eat or drink at the restaurant to enter the swimming area.