There’s quite a bit of confusion about the Ladder of Kotor.

Is it a hiking trail or just a walk? Has the new Cable Car made it redundant? Where do you actually start? Does it involve an actual ladder and is the ladder still even there? Is it really an essential thing to do in Kotor or just a way to game free entry to the Fortress? Do you actually need to visit the Fortress if you’re doing the hike? And, crucially, should you be preparing to walk 10km or 4.5km?

We've written a lot in our Montenegro travel guide series, but in this post we're going to keep it short and sweet in order to strip away some of the unnecessary complication and wrong information.

As, despite the 70 or so switchbacks up the mountainside, it’s all actually quite straightforward: the zig-zagging Ladder of Kotor hike and the literal ladder through the fortress window are NOT the same thing, but can be combined into one single, relatively seamless route.

We'll also give a definitive answer on why (and how) the Ladder of Kotor can cost you €15 or absolutely nothing.

So, whether you're planning how to walk the Ladder of Kotor tomorrow, or just want to know whether it's really worth factoring into your Kotor travel plans, you'll find the answer here.

We'll start with an overview of the full proper hike, then go into the shorter alternative which allows you to combine all or some of it with a visit to the Fortress of Kotor. There’s also a few essential tips on the terrain, difficulty, wrong footwear to bring, start time shadow, and the place you absolutely should make a stop at along the way.

The Ladder of Kotor Essentials

· 10km for the full hike
· Starts just outside the walls of Kotor - here on Google Maps
· Steep and switchback-heavy - moderate fitness required
· Start before 10am to avoid the heat
· Usually combined with the Fortress
· Uneven terrain means proper boots/trainers best
· Set aside 4-5 hours for the full route + fortress visit
· Easier 4.5km alternative route also possible
· Bring plenty water, cash, and suncream
· Hike is free or €15 per person depending on your route down
· Find our route map here on AllTrails
· Plan ahead with our Kotor travel guide

The Ladder of Kotor Hike

The Bottom to The Top

The Ladder of Kotor start point we recommend is situated a short walk outside the historic city’s walls - find it here on Google Maps.

It’s next to an old power plant and may feel like you’re going the wrong way, but don’t worry as this is the correct trailhead.

The most picturesque way to get there is through the streets of old Kotor, exiting at the North (River) Gate and turning right, but you can also just skirt the edges and arrive via the busy road and modern town.

If you’re staying outside the old town (like we did at this excellent loft Airbnb with free parking) then factor in the additional time it’ll take you to walk or drive to the start point. Central parking for day trips to Kotor isn’t stress-free or cheap; we suggest heading this one (maps) or this one (maps) for convenience and proximity or, if you’d rather save money, this car park (maps) is much cheaper on the per hour/day rate and just a 20-minute walk from the start.

If driving into Kotor for a daytrip, expect traffic and bottlenecks.

Once past the chainlink fences at the power plant, you’ll join the gravel trail, which begins its zig-zag switchback ascent immediately.

The good news is that you just have to stick to this for the next 1.5km or so; the bad news is that you have to stick to this for the next 1.5km or so!

It’ll take you in the region of 25-35 minutes, then you’ll arrive at a crossroads of sorts. On your right you’ll see:

• The fortress (where you might see people climbing through a window - more on that later)

• The ruins of a small chapel

• A drinks stop with a few chairs and “Relax - Drinks - Fotos” etched on rusting signs.

Despite the fact you’ll see more people heading right in the direction of the fortress, you’re going to ignore them and go up to the left

At this point, the trail will change to steeped rock stairs, marked with the familiar red-and-white waymarkers found across Montenegro’s hikes.

After a few minutes, you'll arrive at the small building on your left with a red rooftop (sunbathing cat optional). This is a little gem run by a local couple, but we’re going to recommend you save it for the way back.

Your task now is to just keep going up and up on these switchbacks, which are the reason it’s called The Ladder of Kotor! It’s a tad dull and feels a little Sisyphean, but the views of the Bay of Kotor, the fortress, and the contrast between the walled city and the modern beyond certainly make it worthwhile. The further you climb, the smaller those gargantuan cruise ships become, which is reason enough to escape up here as well.

Indeed, beyond the views and the sweat satisfaction, one of the best reasons to hike this trail is to escape the cruise ship crowds for which Kotor is notorious. Whilst the historic city is beautiful and immaculately well-preserved, it is one of the most touristic, hollowed-out places we’ve visited in recent travels; a major contributing factor being the fact that two to four of these monstrous floating cities are permitted to dock most days in summer.

From up here though, you can appreciate the old town’s red-roof topped architecture and strategic perch by the water, as well as the ridges and contours of the gorgeous Bay of Kotor, its surface streaked by dozens of tiny boats and clusters of oyster barrels.

After 4.8km / 90-minutes from the start, we arrived at the top rung of The Ladder of Kotor (maps) - some of you will do it quicker, some may be closer to two hours.

From this vantage point - well above the fortress - the views change dramatically: a lush green valley with the Adriatic beyond, a sweeping perspective over the Bay, and a satisfying look back at the zig-zagging switchbacks over which you’ve just triumphed.

For the best views and photos, we recommend walking a little off trail to this point and enjoy a well-earned break with a side of excellent snacks (the key to any good hike!).

You can continue further up the trail from here, eventually leading to a main road, but we didn’t and nobody else seemed to either. Due to the angle of the terrain, we expect the views won’t become radically better or different - do let us know in the comments if you persevere and disagree though!

For the descent, you’re simply going back down the same trail, but we suggest you save a few minutes by taking the shortcut that bypasses several switchbacks from the top.

When you arrive back at the red rooftop, that’s your cue to have a very refreshing pomegranate juice, beer, homemade wine, or heady combination of all three. The elderly couple who run this place are quite charismatic, and there’s also cheese & meat boards available for €10.

Paying customers can also use the toilet.

Once you’re done and headed back to the crossroads, it’s time to make a decision: whether to continue all the way back down to the start point or head into the fortress.

Almost all hikers should choose to visit the Fortress, and that’s going to involve an actual ladder through a several-hundred-year old window….

Plan / You can view and follow our exact route here on AllTrails

The Tale of Two Ladders

As hinted at, this walk is called the Ladder of Kotor (or “Ladder of Cattaro”, after Kotor’s old Venetian name) because of the way this old path zigzags steeply up the mountainside.

For someone at some point in history, it resembled a giant ladder when viewed from above or across the bay, but we have another theory that it may have been christened ‘the ladder’ simply because it brings you up and over the mountain.

Though a goat-trail of sorts may have predated them, it was formally built by the Austrian military, who had nabbed Kotor from the Venetians in 1797 and clung to it (bar a brief Napoleonic interlude) right up to 1918. Primarily a trading and supply route, it was also the main artery linking Kotor with Njeguši and Cetinje for mules and merchants. Salt, smoked meat, olive oil, cattle, wine, soldiers, and even royal messengers - everything once travelled up and down these 70-odd switchbacks - and it was a vital link between the coastal and mountain regions of Montenegro.

However, it’s the presence of a literal ladder nearby that has led many travellers to assume the trail’s namesake is for other reasons entirely; this is also why lots of people mistakenly hike a shorter, easier version that they think is the Ladder of Kotor.

Let us explain.

From the crossroads early on in the walk (1.7km from the start), you’ll hopefully see the short wooden ladder perched against the medieval walls of the Kotor Fortress (aka St John’s Castle - here on Google Maps). Nobody knows who first put this there, but taking it up and through the window is now a very well-established way to enter the incredible building, which clings to the cliffs and snakes up the mountainside in a staggering series of walls and stairways.

That ladder is what many assume is the ‘Ladder of Kotor’.

The fortress is one of the most popular things to do in Kotor, and will definitely figure in most of your plans. It has two official entrances from the old town, both of which involve many, many steep stairs and an even steeper entry fee of €15 per person (free admission for children under 12 years of age).

However, lots of travellers now walk up the first section of the Ladder of Kotor trail, go right at the crossroads, and climb through the tiny fortress window via the wooden ladder; this brings you to the upper third of fortress’s stairs, which they can then walk up to the very top.

In fact, many online accounts and maps incorrectly label this shortcut as the full Ladder of Kotor hike - including this popular but incorrect route map - and it’s definitely not been helped by the person who created this Google Maps listing exactly where the wooden ladder is located.

Now, since most visitors plan to see the fortress anyway, it makes perfect sense to combine it with your Ladder of Kotor trail, entering through the window on your way up or down. Combing the two saves time, sweat, and avoids doing two strenuous activities on separate days.

We suggest going into the fortress on your descent makes most sense.

So, here’s the rule of thumb: the zig-zagging Ladder of Kotor hike and the literal ladder through the window into the fortress are NOT the same thing, but can be combined into one single, relatively seamless route. You can reach the top of the Ladder of Kotor trail and then visit the fortress using the wooden ladder.

So, what’s the catch?

· Technically, it’s not an official entry to the fortress (though they definitely know about it) and you’re sort of breaking in

· Sometimes the ladder is removed, only to reappear a few days or weeks later. Most, but definitely not all, would still be able to get up and through the window if given a leg up…

We’re big advocates of responsible travel and weren’t certain this was an option we should take or recommend. However, it’s now so firmly established and known about amongst travellers that we though it best to check it out and share the reality with you.

After going through the window, it took us about 10 minutes to reach the top of the fortress, then walk its stairs all the way back down to one of the two official exits in the historic centre. This was partly so we could see and experience all of the fortress, but also because we wanted to give you a clear answer on the exit process for those who enter through the window.

In short, after wandering around some more and completing the punishing descent on the many narrow stairs, you’ll still have to buy the €15 ticket on exit. This is because there are staffed kiosks and barriers, and there’s no way out unless you go through them! We expected this, and the guy working there was very chilled out when we told him we didn’t have a ticket as we’d hiked up the Ladder and then visited the fortress - it clearly happens a lot.

There is however an alternative: go through the window, up to the top of the fortress, then exit out of the same window, and walk the Ladder of Kotor trail back down to the start point.

So, if you’re hiking to the top of the Ladder of Kotor, you’ve got three ways back down:

1 / just follow the trail back down to the start point = free

2 / go through the window, visit the fortress, then go all the way down the fortress stairs to the official exits = €15 per person

3/ go through the window, visit the fortress, exit through the window, and follow the main trail back down to the start point = free

If the entry to the fortress wasn’t so vastly overpriced - it’s genuinely not worth €15 whichever way you enter it - we’d only recommend option 2 as the best, fairest, and most responsible. Until then though, we understand why people will continue to go for option 3, regardless of risk, rightness, and the tight squeeze.

Plan / Whichever option you go for, you can find and follow our exact route here on AllTrails, where we’ve marked all of the key waypoints for you.

The One Big Thing | Light & Shade

We're big advocates of starting hikes early for a better, less crowded experience and to avoid walking in the worst of the peak heat.

However, the quirky topography of the Bay of Kotor means a painfully early alarm isn't essential.

In summer, the mountainside which the gravel trail climbs will stays in shade until mid-morning (at least 10am), whilst the peaks across the bay are already glowing in sunlight.

Given that it'll take you 90 minutes to two hours to reach the top, this means you've got quite a generous window for a reasonable enough start time or even a cheeky coffee / pastry before you hit the trail.

Of course, the earlier you begin, the earlier you'll be back down, and those who want to minimise the heat and exposure could feasibly make it up and almost all the way back down before the sun even touches the trail - and the earlier you start, the more your descent will also still be in shade.

Views from the trail will also be less impressive in the late afternoon due to the opposite part of the bay being cast in shadow first, whilst you’ll be in direct sunlight.

If you're perhaps less physically fit or concern about ability, then we still recommend heading up as early as you can to keep the experience on the right side of enjoyable.

Plan / 10 Things To Know Before Hiking in Montenegro

The Short Fort Alternative

If you’re short on time in Kotor, or just don’t fancy all the sweaty switchbacks, you can do this abbreviated easier version instead.

It combines the first 1.5km of the Ladder with the Fortress, and will be a total of about 4.5km.

Based on our experience, this actually seemed the most popular choice, but that could be down to:

• Many people mistakenly think this shortcut is the full Ladder of Kotor hike

• Others simply using the beginning of the trail to reach the (not so) secret fortress entrance, rather than intending to do the full Ladder of Kotor.

Due to the second point, most people will likely opt to exit through the window too in order to avoid the €15 ticket.

Simply make your way to the Ladder of Kotor start point outside the historic city’s walls - find it here on Google Maps - and follow the zig-zags up for 25-35 minutes.

At the crossroads, you can have drink either the place on the right or head left to the pomegranate juice place we mentioned earlier, and have a wander around the small collection of ruins here. Or, you can just go straight toward the wooden ladder under the fortress window and climb through.

Once you’re in, continue up the stairs to the top of the fortress and enjoy the views and the history for as long as you like - you may even spot some distant figures struggling up the switchbacks or at the top of the Ladder!

When you’re done, if you really don’t want to pay the entrance, you can simply walk back down to the window, exit, and rejoin the trail back down to the start point.

We'd suggest that if you're just going up the trail to go in and out of the window, then you're technically not hiking the Ladder of Kotor. However, you could certainly pair this ‘Short Fort’ alternative with a pomegranate juice or glass of wine with a view of the Bay of Kotor, and have a very pleasant, active few hours away from the crowds.

Know // Despite its popularity, the above ‘window’ option is not at all guaranteed and is done wholly at your own risk - always carry cash or card to pay the entrance fee. Further, the ladder is sometimes removed and a barista in town was very surprised when I told him it was back. Some videos shows it as just a stick, others with nothing there, and the window has also been blocked off in the past or a ticket attendant stationed there, so there is also a risk that you won’t even be able to enter or exit via the window.

Lastly, some travellers may struggle going up/down the ladder or fitting through the hole.

Do let us know in the comments what the situation is after your own visit, so we can update the post and help out other travellers.

Travel Better Tips

· Make sure to read our Kotor travel guide!

· The path is uneven throughout and composed mostly of loose rock, small loose stones, and more rocks

· We’d class this as more of a walk than a ‘hike’, though some may find the ascent quite tiring and challenging, whilst the descent is never going to be fun on bad knees.If you’ve got a decent level of fitness and mobility though, then will definitely be possible to set out on the trail.

> For more advice and to find out our favourite hikes, then check out 10 Things To Know Before Hiking in Montenegro

· Trainers will be absolutely fine for it, but that doesn't mean it should be your nice, new, holiday-white going out trainers. If you’ve got your hiking boots with you, then definitely wear ‘em

· Watch out for your ankles and slips / trips on the way down

· You should only do this hike when there’s clear skies and good visibility, otherwise the views won’t be worthwhile

· Bring cash and card for refreshments and the entrance / exit fee

· You need about 2 litres water person, a hat, and suncream - snacks are also a good idea

· If you are starting late in the morning or mid-afternoon, ensure you bring more water - we can’t recall anywhere to fill up except if you make a stop at the toilets.

· There’s a woman at the top of the fortress selling drinks (cash only) and a few other vendors on the stairs down

· The walk down the steep, narrow fortress stairs under the hot sun was arguably the more challenging / least enjoyable part of our day

· Oh, and we almost forgot to tell you! The Ladder of Kotor walk is nothing to do with visiting the Kotor Cable Car, and they should be viewed as two very distinct, non-competing activities. There is a way to continue further up from the top of the ladder and walk along roads to reach the upper station of the Cable Car, but we would not recommend it. For more advice and money-saving tips, check out guide on How To Visit The Kotor Cable Car.