A Short Guide to Perast | Montenegro’s Prettiest Village

Perast is the Bay of Kotor at its most cinematic: a single seafront street of pale-stone palazzi, a baroque bell tower rising above the square, and two small islets lying just offshore as if placed deliberately for the view.

It’s beautiful, yes - heartbreakingly so at times - but it’s also a place that can make you ache a little for not having stayed longer.

By day, Perast heaves under its own perfection.

The narrow waterfront fills with group upon group arriving by boat to briefly explore the bay, each trying to fit the same view into a camera frame, and the serenity it promises feels just out of reach. But then, the last boats begin to pull away and the mood shifts entirely. The air settles, the water stills, and it feels as though the whole village exhales. Those who’ve been hidden away in stone rooms and shaded courtyards start to reappear: couples in linen strolling towards dinner, waiters ferrying carafes of wine to tables beside the water, the bronzed bodies of locals edging back into the bay for one last swim.

With the sun dropping low behind the hills, fishermen take their spots along the walls and cast slowly into the shallows, watched by the curious and an expectant cat. The light softens against the palaces, reflections quiver on the water, and Perast finally becomes what it has hinted at all day - languid, elegant, and faintly timeless.

We left too soon.

It was one of the quiet regrets of our Montenegro road trip, knowing that with the right guesthouse and a few slow mornings we could have lingered here, drinking coffee by the water as the bay came alive, and wine again as it faded back into stillness.

If you crave a taste of those old-world European summers - the kind that seem lifted from a film reel, all slow glamour and heat-hazed afternoons - this is where you’ll find it.

The Perast Essentials

How / A popular stop on a Bay of Kotor tour but easily accessed by bus or - theoretically - car. Do not visit without reading the first section of this guide!

Know / Very busy during the day time, but exceptional in the evenings and early mornings

Must / Take the boat over to Our Lady of the Rocks

Head / Up St Nicholas Tower

Visit / The Perast museum

Swim / From the stone waterfront

Tip / Arrive early or stay later

Stay / Discover ultimate luxury at Heritage Grand Hotel or Santa Boka but Hotel Admiral is a solid mid-range choice. There are lots of excellent Airbnbs, but you’d be hard pushed to beat this one

How to Get to Perast & The Truth About the Parking Mafia

We don’t normally begin our travel guides with ‘how to get there’ information. It’s usually a little too dry and practical and is best left to the end.

Occasionally however, we visit a place where we’ve been so confused, riled up or generally frustrated that it becomes our job to ensure those for whom we write have a smoother experience.

Perast is one such place.

Parking here can be a nightmare, for reasons good and bad. Recently pedestrianised all year round (up until this year, vehicles could access the waterfront outwith the months of May to September), those driving to Perast with their own vehicle shouldn’t try to enter the village.

Instead, you need to park by the main road at either end of the village, then walk in. There are two small official car parks one each side, both of which charge €8 for the day ticket, €15 for 24 hours and free from October to April (there’s no hourly tariff). For vans it’s €12 / €30.

A day ticket is generally viewed as eight hours.

Find the westerly carpark here (best if arriving from Risan/Kamenari), and the one on the eastern approach (best from Kotor) here.

This arrangement should make arriving in Perast relatively easy, but it’s undermined by two factors: Perast’s popularity, and what we can only call the ‘parking mafia’.

On the westerly and easterly approach to Perast, and along the main road that passes up and behind the village, you’ll see lots of signs stating ‘free parking’ - but this parking is only free when you agree to take a boat tour with those directing you to the spaces. Whilst that may seem like a good deal, what they won’t tell you is that the boat ride and parking combo is charged at a much higher rate than what you’d pay for the two separately.

We were quoted €40 by one guy, and €30 by the next, but we’ve read reviews of people paying much much more for a tour they really didn’t enjoy.

The other issue we encountered is that the guys trying to sell the tour + parking combo by the entrance to the westerly car park (maps) lied to us and others when they confidently stated we could not park there unless we took a boat tour with him. We bargained a little with him and left on good terms, but he was really aggressive to the car in front of us and we’ve also read many reviews since of quite awful, threatening behaviour by the parking mafia towards visitors.

A local, who was just as annoyed as us with the whole thing, confirmed this was a scam - and it’s something you’ll also experience at Lake Skadar.

The final thing to complicate matters is that much of the designated paid-for parking at the eastern entrance of Perast (maps) is actually given over to guests of the beautiful Heritage Grand Hotel, so unless you’re lucky or early, you’re unlikely to find one there.

All of this can make for a bit of a stressful introduction to somewhere so pleasant.

So, if you can’t find a space at either of the above or want to save money, what do we recommend? Although it involves a short walk along a busy road with no pavement, we’d suggest doing what we and many others did, and park up on the side of the road on the Kotor-side approach to the village - roughly around here on Google Maps.

It’s free and a very long stretch, but note that there are some better areas to pull up than others due to the coastal drop-off. Also, take care when getting in / out of your car as it’s a busy road.

That’s the best bet, but there are some very small free parking spots on the other side (here) and on the road up and behind the village, but you’ll have to be early or lucky to find a space.

Parking like this then enables you to source your boat tour separately (keep reading to find out how) and clap yourself on the back for reducing the potential €40 visit down to a much more realistic €10 (for two people)!

Lastly, don’t trust any listing that comes up on Google Maps if you search ‘free parking in Perast’. Several listings have been created by the companies solely to pull in unsuspecting day-trippers, so read a good number of recent legitimate reviews before turning up.

If you find any good alternative free or paid parking spots in Perast, then do let us know in the comments.

What If You’re Staying in Perast?

Unless staying at the Heritage Grand Hotel - which has its own small carpark - your only option is to pay for the 24-hour parking or park along the road like we did.

This means factoring in €15/day extra to your budget and/or accepting the slight inconvenience if choosing to base yourself in Perast.

For total clarity, you cannot drive in to Perast at all in order to unload your luggage and there’s parking barriers to block access.

The good news is that, if you’re staying in a hotel, most of them have their own golf cart for picking up guests; you just need to confirm your arrival time after booking. Those staying in an Airbnb however will have no choice but to make the walk into the village. The distance is pretty short and mostly flat, but if you’ve got a lot of luggage this could be easier said than done - if you’re far from travelling light or have limited mobility, it may be worth considering a hotel even if you’d normally prefer an apartment.

Plan // Our Essential Guide to Driving in Montenegro

Bus to Perast

Those without a rental car can allow themselves a little chuckle now, as you’ve probably got the better situation for reaching Perast! Indeed, even those on a road trip who are only visiting on a day trip from Kotor may wish to consider leaving the car behind and taking the bus.

The local Blue Line bus shuttles along the bay between Novo Naselje Skaljari - Risan, and has a dedicated stop in Perast. This is also the service to take if you’re looking to do a day trip from Kotor to Perast by bus - this is the location of the bus stop in Kotor.

you can find the timetable here but do not expect the most punctual service.

The fare is about €1.50 one-way, cash to the driver with the correct change appreciated, and the run journey 25-35 minutes depending on traffic and where you hop off.

To catch the bus back, head to the official bus stop - located here on Google Maps -but it also picks up from here.

Boats & Tours From Kotor

One of the most popular activities in the Bay of Kotor is a boat trip along its glittering coastline, and these often include Perast within the itinerary.

These last anywhere from 90 minutes to a full day, but a standard group tour lasts around three hours and costs between €25 and €35 per person, depending on the route. These are easy to arrange in Kotor, where you’ll see signs and tourist offices everywhere in the old town, but if you’d prefer to get one locked in before you arrive, the following are highly rated:

· Blue Cave and Bay of Kotor Boat Tour | Super popular three-hour tour that includes Perast, Our Lady of the Rocks, the Old Submarine Tunnel, Blue Cave and Mamula Island.

· Boat Tour to Perast & Our Lady of the Rocks | This two-hour tour is a good option for those that are a little short on time or aren’t fussed about the other attractions listed in the tour above. It’s got similarly great reviews.

If your only goal is to visit Our Lady of the Rocks, it’s usually quicker and cheaper to reach Perast first and hop on one of the small boats that depart once they’re full. Boat tours from Perast include €40 per person for the Blue Cave (2.5 hours) or €90/hour for a private tour of Boka Bay.


The Best Things to Do in Perast

Walk the Waterfront

Perast is one long frontage of pale stone and terracotta, a row of grand yet quietly weathered palaces pressed between the bay and the mountains. Restaurants spill out onto the waterfront, fishing boats and small passenger launches bob at their moorings, and the water flickers between shades of blue and silver under the changing light.

The entire promenade can be walked in less than twenty minutes, yet you’ll find yourself stopping constantly - turning forwards, then back again - trying to catch the village from every angle as the scene rearranges itself with each step.

As this is the main thoroughfare for several thousand tourists that visit Perast each day in the summer, a stroll along the waterfront is much better enjoyed earlier in the day or in the late afternoon once the large groups have left.

This rationale is also why it pays to stay here to savour the setting and beauty at its best.

Top Tip // If you arrive in Perast a little peckish - or you’re simply someone who can always find room for cake - interrupt your wanderings with a stop by Café Armonia (maps) for a slice of Peraška torta.

Created in 1664 (or so the legend goes), to honour the arrival of a new Venetian commander, the torta was made with the the finest ingredients available at the time: almonds from the coast, local eggs, sugar, and citrus for flavour, and served at a celebratory banquet for the admiral’s inauguration

It proved such a success that the recipe was passed down through Perast’s families and over time became the villages’s signature cake, traditionally made for weddings, feasts, and special occasions.

Visit Our Lady of the Rocks & Sveti Đorđe

The offshore pairing of Our Lady of the Rocks and Sveti Đorđe is Perast’s calling card, the island double act that anchors every view from the bay.

The first, Our Lady of the Rocks, is an extraordinary piece of collective devotion - a man-made islet slowly built up over centuries by sailors who promised to lay a stone each time they returned safely from sea. What began as a small rock formation eventually grew into a stable surface large enough to support a church, completed in 1630 and rebuilt after earthquakes and storms.

Inside, a painted Baroque ceiling arches above the church’s small nave, its panels depicting scenes of devotion and seafaring faith, while a modest adjoining museum traces Perast’s maritime past through model ships, silver ex-votos, and a remarkable embroidery made from silk, gold, and even the hair of its creator - a local woman who waited 25 years for her husband to return from a voyage.

Each 22nd July, the tradition continues with the Fašinada, when locals still row out to the island at sunset to drop fresh stones into the water, renewing what their ancestors began.

Special.

Just beside Our Lady lies the natural Sveti Đorđe, a silhouette of Cypress trees wrapped around a Benedictine monastery that almost never admits visitors. The more mysterious of the two, whilst you can’t land or visit there, you can contemplate it from across the water.

The Details | There are countless companies that shuttle visitors on small boats from Perast to Our Lady of the Rocks. When arriving or walking the length of the village’s seafront promenade, you’ll be offered their services repeatedly.

For those that didn’t opt for the ‘free parking’ plus boat tours upon arrival by car, the crossing costs €5 per person return. Some companies seem to have a set timetable of departures every 15 minutes or so, but there enough offering this service that if you want to travel to Our Lady of the Rocks immediately, just keep asking until you find one leaving soon.

The journey literally takes just a few minutes, and the boat will usually return 30 minutes later to pick you up - it’s all quite relaxed.

We paid in cash once we’d got back and disembarked.

For the best experience of Our Lady of the Rocks, we recommend going early before the Kotor, Budva, and cruise ship tours make it intolerably busy, or wait until late afternoon when the day-trippers thin out and the little island feels briefly like it belongs to the village again.

The church and museum costs €3 per person and whilst it wasn’t strictly enforced when we visited, you’re expected to cover your shoulders when inside the church.

Swim From the Steps

As with much of the Bay of Kotor, there’s no sandy beach in Perast and the vast majority of day trippers aren’t here to sunbathe or swim.

However, if staying overnight or having more than a few hours, then it’s something you should absolutely be considering! Those early mornings and golden hour swims after the crowds have departed would be wonderful.

They’re mostly taken via steel steps or small stone outcrops, which are an essential part of the Adriatic summer vibe and should be fully embraced. You’ll see various outcrops and benches along the waterfront, but two spots that sit either side of of the village are worth being in mind:

Peskovita Plaža Perast | This short, pebbly beach is mostly taken up by sunbeds from the adjoining bars and beach clubs in summer, which also rent loungers for the day and have more sunbathing space for clients on their platforms. This area is also a popular pick for sunset cocktails.

Perast Beach | Just past the parking barrier, this is the better option for a free swim or sunbathing sessions. It’s more rustic and there’s no sand but would absolutely do the job in the sunshine. There’s a small kiosk for snacks and drinks.

If R&R in the sunshine is your vibe, then it’s important to add that the village’s luxury hotel - Heritage Grand - offers a screened-off, private waterfront sunbathing and swimming area exclusively for its guests whilst Santa Boka, one of Perast’s newest offerings has a stunning pool area.

Plan // If you choose to base yourself in Perast, then you’re very likely going to make a day trip to Kotor. Find out all our advice and tips in our Kotor Travel Guide

Perast City Museum

For context to all that carved stone, the small city museum inside Bujović Palace (maps) is worth half an hour: maritime charts and portraits, domestic pieces from the village’s wealthiest families, and a balcony view when open. It’s also a good place to escape the peak summer head.

The museum runs a seasonal schedule and is open 8am - 8pm everyday except Mondays from 15th April until 15th October. Outwith these month, it’s 10am - 4pm but we’d recommend checking in advance via the official website if visiting in the low season.

Unfortunately, the entry prohibitively expensive at €8 per person so unless you’re super interested in maritime history, this may be something you add to the ‘not-absolutely-necessary’ pile.

Did You Know? // Perast is home to nineteen aristocratic palaces built during its seafaring golden age. The largest, Smekja Palace, once belonged to a wealthy maritime family and now forms part of the stunning Heritage Grand Hotel (you can still see the family’s carved coat of arms).

Visit St Nicholas Church & Climb the Bell Tower

After Our Lady of the Rocks, the 17th century St Nicholas Church is the most iconic landmark in Perast, with its 55-metre Baroque bell tower rising above the rooftops and visible from almost anywhere along the bay. The Venetians ruled Perast from 1420 to 1797, transforming the small fishing village into a prosperous maritime hub lined with the Baroque palaces and churches you see today, and the bell tower itself was built in 1691 by the Venetian architect Giuseppe Beati.

It’s absolutely worth a quick look inside (the interior is much more ornate than the rather austere exterior may suggest) but if you visit during the summer months, be sure to head up the narrow staircase for wonderful views over the Bay and the two islets offshore.

Outside the church, you can see the busts and background of several influential Perast natives, reflecting its maritime and mercantile status.

The Details | It’s a short, slightly stooped ascent with a token fee of €1 per person. The church is accessible throughout the day with the tower typically open for visitors from around 10am on most days, but whether it’s actually going to be open for you or not isn’t guaranteed: it’s generally closed in the off-season, closes for bell ringing and - as we discovered - often closes for no discernible reason at all.

For the best views, we’d recommend heading up when it opens (in late afternoon, you’ll be looking straight into the sun otherwise). As ever, take your hat off on entry and dress/act appropriately for a holy building.

Head Up High For the Views

For an alternative view of the village, the islets and the Bay of Kotor, be sure to head up to this scenic spot at the top of the village (maps).

On the way, you’ll pass by Our Lady of the Rosary, a 17th century Franciscan Monastery. It’s teeny tiny and not accessible when we visited but the tower frames the view out over the Bay and the two islets beyond beautifully!

Given how few people make it up here, it’s actually a fantastic spot to escape the crowds if visiting Perast in the middle of the day.

If you can continue beyond the viewpoint, heading back down towards the bay be aware that it becomes quite overgrown with rubbish and skeletons of old buildings - quite different from the restored facades of the waterfront

Some other churches worth passing by include the simple 16th century Church of Saint John the Baptist (maps), and the beautiful squat Church of Saint Mark (maps)

Know //In 1624, Barbary pirates from Tunisia and Algeria launched a devastating raid on the village when many of its men were out at sea. Known as the Great Ravage of Perast, they abducted 415 people and cause much damage, but the residents refused to surrender, negotiating ransoms and rebuilding the community.

Where to Stay in Perast

Hotels & Guesthouses

As mentioned, we both regret not staying for at least one night in Perast. This isn’t just because it would have allowed us the opportunity to really appreciate its beauty and setting without the day trip crowds, and have a special waterfront dinner, but also because its accommodation is much nicer than many hubs on the Bay of Kotor. If you’re got a rental car, just remember to clarify the parking situation and/or factor in that additional amount.

Heritage Grand | Set within a beautifully restored 18th-century palace, this landmark hotel brings understated luxury to Perast’s waterfront. Rooms combine period detail with calm, contemporary styling, while the private seafront terrace and pool make the most of the bay’s setting. This would be a gorgeous place to stay!

Santa Boka | One of Perast’s newest offerings, this hotel is simply gorgeous with impeccable design throughout - from the luxurious rooms to the stunning pool area and wellness facilities. Also has a highly-regarded on-site restaurant.

Conte Hotel & Restaurant | Housed within a collection of elegant old stone buildings beside the main square, Conte offers spacious rooms, bay views and one of Perast’s best-known restaurants. It strikes a lovely balance between character and comfort, with the water just a few steps from your door.

Hotel Admiral | Whilst the rooms are a little on the old-fashioned side, the location, staff and reviews make this a solid mid-range option in Perast.

BellaVistaZmukic Guesthouse, Palace Jelena Rooms and Guesthouse Žmukić all offer more affordable rooms (less than €100 a night even in high season).

Airbnbs & Apartments

Gorgeous properties really do seem to be the norm when it comes to seeking an Airbnb in Perast, and even the most simple apartments or houses offer a certain kind of magic.

Waterfront with Extraordinary View | Ideal for a couple, this studio has a decent amount of indoor space - but the real reason it makes it to our shortlist is the STUNNING terrace overlooking the bay. It’s just gorgeous.

Penčići Stone Soul House | A 300-year old building housing a three-bedroom property, set over three floors, this place is full of period quirks and modern comforts. Located in the higher levels of the village, this means gorgeous views from the terrace but it also benefits from a wonderful garden with a secret hidden away feel. It also has parking!

Stylish Perast Flat | Perched high above the waterfront, this one-bedroom apartment pairs traditional stone walls with a warm, rustic style. Handmade rugs, oak floors and soft light give it a homely feel, while the open-plan living space frames a beautiful view across the bay and the church towers below. It’s a short walk down to the restaurants and swimming spots, yet feels blissfully removed once you’re sequestered away in the patio with its potted palms and olive trees.

Travelling in a larger group? This three-bedroom property is huge and has its own private pool - perfect for a family holiday.

Other Airbnbs that caught our eye include: this chic two bedroom, Gorgeous Palace Suite, Charming Old Town Home, Step to Perast, and Venetian Jewel House.

Where to Eat & Drink

Even if you’re not staying in Perast, we’d recommend trying to have lunch (but preferably dinner) on the waterfront. There are several really highly-rated option which are more expensive than you’ll find elsewhere but not out of reach for most. The setting and atmosphere once the crowds have departed had us debating (arguing) about whether we should change our plans and drive home in the dark.

Bocalibre (maps) | Having spent a lot of time in southern Italy, we’re pretty fussy about pizza, and rarely expect a restaurant to live up to our lofty expectations. Well, Bocalibre met those expectations, and went well beyond them. The ‘Anchovies’ one was particularly good, but everything looked delicious.

Restaurant Conte (maps) | Perast’s most established restaurant still sets the standard for waterfront dining. Tables spill onto a stone terrace right by the bay, and the menu focuses on local seafood - grilled fish, mussels in wine, and black risotto - all paired with crisp Montenegrin whites. It’s popular, so book ahead if you want a front-row seat for sunset. A reader effusively recommended this one to us too.

Riva Terrace (maps) | If you want to lean into the setting, Riva Terrace - part of the Heritage Grand Hotel - is the village’s most elegant spot to eat, in a setting that makes the most of the hotel’s restored palace. The menu drifts between Montenegrin and Mediterranean, the wine list leans local, and the terrace offers uninterrupted views of the islets.

Eho Restaurant (maps) | One of Perast’s newer openings, EHO brings a fresher, more contemporary feel to the waterfront. The menu focuses on seasonal Mediterranean dishes and locally caught seafood, with lighter, more modern plating than many of its neighbours. The terrace sits just above the bay, catching the breeze making it a lovely spot for slower lunch or an easy dinner by the water.

Moritz Eis | There are two of these excellent Austrian-founded ice-cream shops on the Perast waterfront, and you should absolutely make a point of visiting one (you’ll also see the company elsewhere in Montenegro).

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