There’s a story that says this lake in Montenegro is really a deep pool of tears.

A fairy, either craving forbidden love with a sailor or simply wishing to turn her black eyes blue, angered God with her endless pleas.

Her punishment? To go blind.

Loveless and sightless, the fairy wept for days and months. Her tears flowed around the hills and through the valleys - streams becoming rivers, puddles becoming ponds - until the shape of Lake Skadar took its final breathtaking form.

This is the place where many visitors will begin or end their time in Montenegro, drifting along on wooden boats, wandering quiet villages on the shore, swimming, and seeking out startling views from winding country roads of the largest lake in the Balkans.

Fortunately, the slopes that rise from the shoreline of this National Park also account for the little country’s most famous wine region, and afternoons can be happily spent getting ever so slightly sozzled tasting wines made in tiny family cellars.

In this travel guide, we’ll share our thoughts on the best things to do in Lake Skadar (Skadarsko jezero). From the waters to the wines, we’ll share advice on how to choose the right boat tour and the vineyards to seek out, as well our picks of the best places to base yourself on the shore.

There’s also essentials on the parking nightmare, scams, and our view on how long you actually need to spend in and around the national park.

As for the fairy’s tale? Well, moved by the beauty of her lake of tears, God restored her sight. Able to behold what her sorrow had created, she looked into the water: her eyes were now a deep blue.

Whether they had truly changed or merely reflected the lake is, perhaps, for the birds.

The Lake Skadar Essentials

What / A national park and protected wetland environment
Arrive / Easily accessed by car, train and bus but also a popular day trip from Kotor
Do / A boat trip on the lake, early morning best - book in advance here
Drink / Local wine at family-run vineyards (we loved Winery Tradicija)
Visit / The village of Rijeka Crnojevića
Enjoy / The horseshoe bend viewpoint
Drive / The panoramic roads around the shore
Swim / At a secret beach
Rent / A kayak and head out across the lake
Eat / Trout or carp
Stay / AI Cottage, Hotel De’Andros, Lake Valley, Old House Leković or Panorama Stone House

How Long Do You Really Need?

Before getting properly started, it’s important to know that the sheer size of Lake Skadar can take people a little by surprise.

Depending on the season and levels, it covers between 370 and 530 km², is larger than Malta and one-third of it is actually in Albania. Most visitors won’t see all of it, and a single two or three-hour boat trip on the water only just skims the surface.

We had two nights set aside for the lake at the end of our Montenegro itinerary, with expectations mostly centred around that activity given it underpins most day trips and tours. Our first impressions on arrival in Virpazar on a very busy afternoon with too many people and too many touts were wholly negative though, and if we’d only had time for a pit-stop visit and a hot, crowded boat trip, then we honestly wouldn’t have got some of the fuss about Lake Skadar.

It was only by having more time to drive and walk around, head out on our boat in the early-morning stillness, unhurriedly sip local wine, and enjoy the surroundings in the soft light of sunset, that meant we left with such a wonderful impression.

Due to this, we recommend trying to spend at least a night here - and shaping your plans around an early morning boat trip.

Laka Skadar is a sensible and convenient first stop in Montenegro for those flying into Podgorica airport and making their way to the coast, but for those flying into Tivat airport it's more likely to be visited later in your itinerary.

If you’ve only got enough time for a day trip or tour, we’d strongly suggest trying to schedule your time on the lake to fall outwith the10am - 3pm peak and trying to go out for a longer duration on the water. Also, reconcile yourself to the fact much of your experience will be centred around the tourism hub of Virpazar.

This tour is a very popular Kotor day trip option for the lake, which also includes time at Biograd NP.

For independent travellers, whether you’ve got a rental car or are relying on public transport, we’d suggest giving yourself two full days to see more and enjoy this truly beautiful part of Montenegro. If you’re staying for that amount of time or longer, we’d also recommend considering an accommodation base outside Virpazar to better enjoy the setting and the serenity that can be found.

We’ve shared all our picks on where to stay in and around Lake Skadar at the end of this post, but a few excellent recommendations are:

· AI Cottage | This lovely little wooden chalet (around an 8 minute drive from Virpazar) is where we stayed. Perfect for two, it had a small but adequate kitchen, a humungous handmade wooden bed, a woodburner for cooler nights, a large outdoor area, a nightly soundtrack of bells as the cows returned to the shed, and views out over the surrounding peaks.

. Hotel De’Andros | Lake Skadar’s most luxurious, modern hotel in the heart of Virpazar

· Lake Valley | Located around a 10 minute walk from the centre of Virpazar, Lake Valley is a collection of stone chalets centred around a large landscaped courtyard and inviting swimming pool - it would be a glorious place to stay during the hot summer months. The chalets themselves are simple but cosy with real wood accents and modern finishes. An excellent breakfast is provided, and it’s also possible to get dinner.

. Old House Leković | Located in Godinje, this is a spectacular old farmhouse that has been beautifully renovated with modern amenities whilst retaining the traditional details. The host goes out of their way to help in any way she can, the breakfast is wonderful and you can enjoy a glass of wine made from the farm’s vines whilst admiring the views.

. Panorama Stone Houses | Set at a higher vantage point than most properties, this charming stone cottage is the perfect cosy hideaway and offers the most incredible panoramic views of the lake - a really special spot for those with their own vehicle.

The Best Things To Do in Lake Skadar

A Boat Trip on Lake Skadar

The small town of Virpazar doesn’t have many streets, and its main one is usually filled on both sides with brightly coloured kiosks, blackboards with hastily written special offers, and sandwich boards with a long list of departure times and durations.

Everyone who comes to the lake is going to take a boat trip, and it’s on the itinerary of all organised group tours as well as some cruise ship day trippers from Kotor. That means a lot of people, and a lot of competition for business: if you arrive at the wrong time, it can all be a bit too much.

It’s therefore a a very good idea to understand your options before you arrive.

Each company offers multiple boat tours throughout the day, usually with a varied focus: birdwatching, visits to monasteries and landmarks, swimming, or sunset-trips. The classic version is a two-hour boat ride starting and ending in Virpazar, following along the narrow canal into the open lake, with time spent amongst the iconic lily pad alleys, bird habitats, and scenic spots. Prices typically range from €15-€20 per person, and you can check current rates and availability with Kingfisher here, one of the most reputable local operators and the company we opted for.

The best tours take place on photogenic, open-sided wooden boats that hold around 16-20 people. Some operators set a lower capacity for a more comfortable experience, but a few operators have large, unsightly double-decker boats for much bigger groups, and we recommend avoiding those (thankfully, we believe that this are usually reserved for cruise ship groups).

Boats are usually skippered by a local and include a guide on them, though the driver sometimes doubles up as the guide.

You can also book a private excursion instead (we splurged €80 for our private two-hour morning boat).

Longer tours are also available from Virpazar, with the extra time required in order to reach a specific part of the lake - Kom Monastery (3 hours) and Pavlova Strana (4 hours) are two popular choices - whilst some providers offer a one-hour trip too if you’re really in a rush.

Those who want to enjoy the lake at its most serene, should do as we did and opt for an early morning departure, anywhere from around 7am - 9am. Most companies offer this, but some prioritise specialist birdwatching boat excursions for their early morning runs. A designated Ramsar Wetland of International Importance, Lake Skadar is one of Europe’s key bird habitats and home to over 280 species, so a place that enthusiasts understandably flock toward (no apologies for that pun).

The Pygmy Cormorant and Dalmatian Pelican are two standout spotting opportunities, alongside pretty Kingfishers.

For the twitchers, you really should only consider the specialist birdwatching tours that depart from 6am - 7am. Booking your place in advance is mandatory, and this one is highly rated with free cancellation.

Those who aren’t so passionate about birds could absolutely join one of these early tours to secure a quiet morning on the water, but we’d actually counsel against this. If you find yourself in a group of keen birders - whose priority is patiently admiring or spotting certain species - the you may not experience the lake in the way you’re hoping. It’s fairer on them, and you, to choose a classic tour instead.

All early morning tours need to be booked in advance.

If you’re really not an early morning sort of person, you could also push your departure to 10am: given the heat and brightness, we don’t recommend heading out on a departure between 12 - 4pm in summer.

Three important things before you make your decision and book something:

· There are some alternatives to Virpazar for boat trips. It’s the main one due to ease of access from the highway, but the village of Rijeka Crnojevića is one that those with their own car should seriously consider - we’ve got a section on that later in the post. Based on what we saw, we don’t recommend any of the other alternatives.

· Guesthouse owners will usually have a recommendation or even offer a personal tour, which can work out cheaper and involve a much quieter part of the lake. However, it’s essential to have a firm idea of where they’re actually going to start and visit, and clarify if they’re actually just putting you on a mate’s boat with a tour group. We’ve read reports (in hotel reviews) of guesthouse owners getting quite pushy with their own tours, so if you’d rather go with one of the official companies, don’t feel you need to say yes out of guilt.

· You can also just turn up on the day and find something in the gauntlet of kiosks - and there plenty people there tasked with trying to get your custom. However, organising it all when you show up will limit your options on provider, boat type, departure time and group size etc, and shouldn’t be done if you want go a a boat trip from 6am - 10am.

Prices are also not listed at the kiosks, so you may need to sharpen up your negotiation skills too. The better option is to turn up and arrange everything the day before you want to head out on the boat, thereby giving you a bit more leverage and scope to nab an early morning boat.

The following tours from Virpazar are very highly-rated, with excellent reviews and those signature photogenic longboats:

· The Magic of Lake Skadar | Operated by Kingfisher, the company we went out with, this is their classic two-hour sightseeing and swimming experience. It’s relaxed, photogenic, and offers a great introduction to the lake’s wildlife and scenery. Tickets are €15 per person to join the group tour, and if you book here or here, you’ll get free cancellation up to 24 hours in advance.

They also offer the private 8am version, which is exactly what we did - highly recommended if you want to enjoy the stillness of the lake before the day-trippers arrive.

· Kom Monastery | Also run by the same company, this three-hour option offers a similar overall experience to the above, but includes 30-minutes at the medieval monastery of Kom. Best for those who want to include a dash of history alongside the nature. You can book here for €25 per person and free cancellation.

· Boat Milica | Another excellent local operator, travellers speak positively about small groups sizes and the crew. They offer five different options from one to three hours, as well as sunset-specific or private tours - check prices and availability here.

Know // All boat trips technically require the €5 National Park entry fee, and this is paid separately to the tour, but this may not always be requested. In our 23 Things To Know Before You Visit Montenegro post (published soon), we’ve shared more about the National Park fees and the excellent value annual pass alternative.

At the end of this post, we’ve travel tips for navigating and avoiding the car park chaos in Virpazar - essential if you’re arriving on a day trip.

A Wine Tasting Afternoon in Godinje

Montenegro has a rich winemaking heritage, and the slopes of Lake Skadar are the best place in the country to taste the tradition and the terroir.

Here, the backroads leads to small and medium-sized multi-generation family-run wineries, where the dark blue-purple berries of the indigenous Vranac grape are most commonly found on the vines. This varietal is responsible for about 70% of the country’s wines, creating the delicious medium to full-bodied reds that became a near-constant travel companion on this three-week road trip.

(there were also several ropey versions).

Here at Along Dusty Roads, we're fortunate to have done a few fancy wine tastings in various places, but the appeal in Montenegro was the opportunity to go more 'backyard’ than ‘vineyard'. The sort of places that are found on the roadside rather than the guidebook, where the knotty vines are planted right there in the garden, the production scale is less than a thousands bottles a year, and the distance from vine to wine to glass is a few short steps.

At one place, that wasn’t even promoting itself as a winery, we bought a bottle of their homemade wine to take home - no name, no label - because it was so utterly yummy and the best white we’d tried on the whole trip.

This longstanding and crucial part of viticulture is increasingly difficult to find in more established European wine countries, but is wonderfully abundant in this part of Montenegro. It’s rustic, authentic, and a healthy reminder of what the fundamentals of wine have been for centuries, removed from some of the pretence or posturing that can sometimes accompany it.

For variety and those who want to partake in a more professional, in-depth and curated wine tasting, there are also two or three more established and formal options. But, for any vinophiles with suitable time on their hands, the best answer surely lies in imbibing as much as you can in both sorts of settings…

Wine Tastings in Godinje

The little historical village of Godinje is the best place to start or focus your efforts, with its wineries at quite different ends of the spectrum.

Montenegro’s first ‘heritage settlement’ is iust under five kilometres along the shore from Virpazar and it’s super convenient to head there before or after your boat trip in Virpazar. It’s even possible to walk between the two in about an hour, but please just watch for the cars on those bends.

The tasting season runs from around April to late October / early November, whilst the harvest falls around September.

Winery "Tradicija"

We spent a very pleasant, slightly booze-y couple of hours at this simple family-owned winery. Whilst the ‘tasting’ aspect is definitely more about getting two large glasses of their wines, followed by a couple of shots of raki and fruit brandy, the setting in their bountiful garden right by the vines (and a rather enthusiastic cock) is really special.

The couple who run it are lovely hosts, and speak to customers via a translation machine (not as jarring as it sounds), but this isn’t a place where they accompany or guide through the process or bottles.

The two options are:

· Two glasses of local wine, small plate or olives and cheese, fruit brandy | €15 per person

· Two glasses of local wine with a big plate of meats, olives and cheese, fruit brandy | €30 per person

The addition of the food perhaps results in a disproportionate increase in the price per person, but it did look like you get a lot of meat, so it would be best to view it as your lunch stop. As it’s so meat-heavy, veggies and vegans with an eye on cost are probably best just to go for the €15 option.

You can find the winery here on Google Maps, and note that the entrance can be quite a challenge to navigate - but the owner came out to expertly guide us in to a parking spot on the grass.

It’s a good idea to contact and reserve your place via WhatsApp (‪+382 67 028 020‬), especially if you want the additional food.

Winery Garnet

Garnet was the option most recommended to us for a more polished, formal wine tasting experience, and it’s got really great reviews. We fully intended to visit, but getting in touch the day before meant the only available tasting slot was at 6 pm, and we already had other plans.

They offer a 90-minute, four-wine tasting tour at 12pm, 2pm, 4pm and 6pm in a space that looks like it marries the traditional and the sophisticated quite well - find it here on Google Maps.

Prices are €18pp standard, or €36pp if you want local snacks to accompany. A reservation is required, and you can do this direct on their website.

If you’d prefer a free cancellation window, it’s also available to book online here on Viator (but the price is higher).

Visits are possible from around April to late October/early November, and the harvest season falls around September time.

Alternative // One final recommendation for those who like to pair wine and travel is Lipovac. It’s the largest private winery in Montenegro, and still makes use of ancient clay qvevri and Italian terracotta amphoraes. They offer a guided tour of their cellars and vineyards, followed by a tasting of four wines (€25pp) or seven (€35pp).

It’s situated about half an hour away from Virpazar - find it here on Google Maps

You'll see the brown and white sign posts with a bunch of grapes pointing you to other producing areas like Sec, Krnjice, Limjani, and Boljevići, as well as passing random ones at the roadside as you drive / walk around, but the truth is that there are too many wineries to visit meaningfully in this area. One final insider tip is to consider driving along the lesser-travelled country road from Virpazar that takes you to a few more rustic wineries like Kalimut and Ivo's.

Drive The Panoramic Road to Pavlova Strana

We stopped off at Arizona’s famous Horseshoe Bend during our epic American RV trip: it was one of the worst, most overrated, overrun travel experiences we’ve ever had.

Whilst Pavlova Strana - Lake Skadar's very own Horseshoe Bend - is by no means under the radar in Montenegro, it thankfully remains (for now) on the right side of enjoyable. A viewpoint of a flawless ribbon of water around the hill, it weirdly feels closer to an AI-generated desktop background version of a landscape than reality.

It’s actually the Rijeka Crnojevića river you see here, which flows into Lake Skadar, but we’re not entirely sure if it’s technically part of it or distinct.

Whilst there appear to have been a few developments at the viewpoint in the last few years, with a renovated hotel and decent panoramic restaurant in situ, we thought this only served to frame the setting, allowing you to enjoy it all the more with a coffee, Spritz, or lunch with one hell of a view.

Due to a fence and pesky overgrown shrubs and trees getting in the way, it can be quite a challenge to photograph well.

Where | The Pavlova Strana Rijeka Crnojeviča Viewpoint is situated about an hour’s drive from Virpazar - find it here on Google Maps. Note that your satnav / GPS may default to sending you via Podgorica, but this isn’t what you should do - instead, make sure to follow the brown and white signs for the Panoramic Road 3B.

The drive up is along a twisting single-track road which hugs the lake’s contours, and offers sumptuous glimpses, viewpoint openings, and tress heavy with pears and pomegranates. Be aware that there can be very very large tour buses on this road, as well as speedy local drivers, so take all bends with caution.

Unfortunately, the panoramic viewpoint is not accessible by public transport. If you don’t have a rental car, then it is possible to cycle up there, but we’d only recommended for the very fit and confident on two wheels.

There are a half-dozen or so marked car parking spaces either side of the terrace, which are theoretically for guests/clients of the restaurant but seem to become a bit of a free-for-all. As this is also a very popular stop-off for bus tours and tour groups, space can also become quite limited at peak times.

When | The viewpoint is open, free, and accessible 24/7, but some may prefer to get there to have breakfast or lunch at Konoba Ceklin (maps, open every day from 8am). The restaurant offers an open-air belvedere which is ideal for a coffee, whilst the upstairs restaurant genuinely has one of the best views you’ll find in Montenegro. We were happy to spend €4.50 on Americanos to sit and enjoy the view outside, whilst the restaurant was pretty fairly priced given the setting. We can’t personally vouch for the quality there, but the Google Reviews are pretty good.

Konoba Ceklin is also available to book as an accommodation.

We arrived and threw our drone up a little too late in the morning when the light was a bit harsh on the water, so try to go for sunrise or sunset if you want the best conditions. There are some more view / vantage points further up and down along the serpentine road, but you have to be really cautious if walking to and from them.

Know | The keen-eyed of you may recall Pavlova Strana being mentioned as a four-hour boat tour option from Virpazar - you may also see it referred to as the Pavlova Strana Fjord. This area, and the neighbouring ‘Amazon’ section, are visually stunning but not included on any of the classic or standards tours from the town. You therefore need to be a bit more organised in advance, as not all operators do it and some only have a couple of departures per day.

This option is highly-rated.

If sailing around the bend is what you really want to do though, then you may wish to take your boat trip from Rijeka Crnojevića - which we cover in the next section.

Travel Tip // Our very favourite stop along that 3B Panoramic Road was a totally random one. Marked out by the incongruous parasols and wooden chairs at the roadside, Macalov Brijeg was a wonderful. A great view, delicious homemade wine, a Spanish soundtrack. Stop by for an early morning coffee, a glass of strawberry-scented wine, or a light lunch with ingredients from the garden - find it here on Google Maps. It's also a guesthouse, but we can't find a listing online....

Visit Rijeka Crnojevića

The picturesque village on the banks of the river that shares its name is a potential alternative base to Virpazar.

Whilst much of the activity and economy also revolves around boat tourism, its remote setting at the end of a winding road up and down the hills removes a significant amount of traffic (human and vehicular). With its two beautiful stone bridges and a pedestrianised river bank, the layout and setting is also just calmer and more convivial in comparison, whilst it’s got a fantastic site by the water for anyone with a camper.

It isn’t all milk and honey though, as evidenced by several decrepit buildings in the backstreets, an abandoned canning factory, and a sense that the village’s heyday came and went in a different century.

For some, it may be a bit too remote, but we’d definitely encourage considering it as a stop for coffee or lunch on your way to/from Pavlova Strana.

As mentioned, the main reason for starting your Lake Skadar boat trip from Rijeka Crnojevića is due to its proximity to Pavlova Strana.

Along its riverbank and main road you’ll find bigs signs with maps, routes and prices clearly displayed: around €40 for Pavlova Strana, €85 for the so-called “Amazon” route, and between €95-130 for longer excursions into the main body of the lake. These prices are typically for the whole boat rather than per person, which can make them good value if you’re a couple or group, and effectively means you can get a private experience.

As ever, rates are open to negotiation and cash is king if looking for a better deal.

Boats here are usually advertised here as taxis or cruises rather than tours, and they’re more focussed on the destination than the duration. Also, as Rijeka is much further from the open expanse of Lake Skadar than Virpazar, if you start here it’s probably worth booking a longer trip - otherwise you’ll just be shuttled out to Pavlova Strana and back. Whatever option/route you go for, we’d suggest asking around to get an idea on how long you’ll actually be out on the water and clarifying the whole trip length before agreeing anything.

Where | Find Rijeka Crnojevića here on Google Maps - it’s about 50-minutes driving from Virpazar, located 4km before the Horseshoe Bend viewpoint. As before, your GPS may try to send you via Podgorica, but you should divert it to go via the Panoramic Road 3B.

There is free marked parking all along this road, but the tour operators may make you feel that you shouldn’t park there or that they’re doing you a favour letting your park there. This is quite common in certain tourist spots in Montenegro, and it’s because they try to nab people as soon as they park and/or provide the free parking spot as part of their tour.

We’ve read some comments where they can be quite obtrusive or aggressive, but it was thankfully pretty empty on the morning we arrived so there were no issues. If you are uncertain, you can simply continue up the same road where you’ll find more free on-street parking.

The final caveat is that we’d expect it to get super busy here with locals and their cars on weekends.

As far as we’re aware, you cannot reach Rijeka Crnojevića with public transport, so you’d have to take a taxi. If you do find out an alternative option, then please let us know in the comments

Stay | It’s important to note that the accommodation options are pretty limited here. We’d recommend taking a look at Skala Luxury Rooms and Hotel S Family Jovicevic or Apartment Vujovic and Lidija Apartment.

Rule of Thumb// We don’t want to leave anyone more uncertain than when you started planning about where to begin your Lake Skadar trip, so the rule of thumb is this: if you’re on a day trip, want the classic 2-3 hour experience, or don’t have your own transport, start from Virpazar; if you’re keen to include Pavlova Strana, you’ll need to join a longer, specific trip or set off from Rijeka Crnojevića instead - though the latter only works if you’ve got your own wheels.

Kayak The Shoreline of Skadar

If we had another day here, then this is precisely how we’d have spent it.

Kayak rental is offered in both Virpazar and Rijeka Crnojevića at really affordable rates (usually €5 per hour or €20-30 for the whole day), and heading out on a self-guided excursion is pretty straightforward too. Any provider worth their salt will provide you with a map and advice on where to stop / direction to go, and the opportunity to peacefully drift between carpets of lily pads and past wading pygmy cormorants or simply take in the vastness of the lake at your own pace is definitely appealing.

Some travellers may even prefer to prioritise their time and money for this over the classic boat trip.

With an hour to play with you’d be heading back before you’ve even got properly started, so we’d suggest budgeting to be out for at least three or four hours is probably a good shout. You could even make a day of it, pulling up to the secret beaches, scenic parts of the shore, and the handful of restaurants you’ll paddle past.

And for the love of god bring plenty water, a hat and suncream as shade is scarce out there and the temperature really spikes in the summer.

If you prefer to organise everything before you arrive, you can book your Skadar Kayak rental here and here.

Bicycles & E-Bikes // There’s a defined national cycle route - the 41.3km Virpazar - Ckla bicycle path - along the skinny road that skirts the southern short of the lake, via villages, viewpoints, wineries, monasteries and ruins, bringing you close to the Albanian border.

We drove most this and can vouch for how popular it was with large cycle tour groups on e-bikes.

We’d suggest that it’s a great option for those who don’t have a rental car that want to head out on their own and experience the cultural and scenic highlights of the lake beyond the boat tour. Unfortunately, despite our various enquiries in and around Vipazar - including at the tourist office - we simply couldn’t source a bicycle rental in town. The main provider seems to have closed down, and no one has yet stepped in.

So, our guess is that most of these were part of an organised multiday Montenegro cycling tour and /or cruise ship day trip excursions.

However, there were definitely tourists independently peddling along on their own or in couples too.

So, we’d love if you could let us know if you source a good bicycle rental in Skadar or if a company starts offering this again.

The ‘Secret’ Beaches & Swim Spots of Skadar

Whilst we won’t oversell the merits of the little patches of beach you can find along the shores of Skadar Lake, they’re definitely a good shout for those looking to unplug and chill for a few hours or slow travellers with time to space.

This also pairs perfectly if you’re heading out on a kayak.

We should also emphasise that it’s permitted and safe to swim in Lake Skadar National Park, and beach is also a loose term here.

Pješačac Beach

A small area of pale shingle / stone, there’s also a concrete platform to lay out and sunbathe. The closest and most accessible for most visitors, it’s a 2.5km drive or walk from Godinje and a good shout for post-lunch or wine-tasting siesta. If you’re lucky, there may also be a cat.

Whilst there was a sign up to a restaurant, it was closed off for a private event, so bring in whatever you need as there’s nothing else around.

There’s plenty space to park up a short walk from the shore - find it here on Google Maps

Murići Beach

Many consider this the lake’s most inviting sunbathing and swimming spot. A 560 metre sweep of similarly pale pebbles, lapped by clear shallows and backed trees, this low-key spot looks out across to Beška island and its tiny monastery.

Find it here on Google Maps.

The only downside is that it’s about an hour’s drive to get here from Virpazar, along that narrow road running along the shore (which doubles up as the Virpazar - Ckla bicycle path). Unless you’re making a day of it and visiting the wineries and villages mentioned above, it may not be worth the effort of a two-hour round trip - especially if you’re new to the driving conditions here or a little fraught at them by now. In our opinion, Pješačac Beach would do the job just as well.

This area also offers an alternative base from which to experience the lake, with B&B Skadar Lake Murici, and also a campsite.

A Few More…

Our guesthouse owner directed us out to the more remote Jakočev Krš swim spot (Google Maps), but it was all quite dried out by September and we’d struggle to recommend going out of your way for it. If you do though, stop in for a drink at the farmer’s little bar / restaurant next to the cabins.

There are also a few lakefront bars and restaurants dotted around the shoreline, with some offering up sunbeds and that sort of vibe. We spied some of these on our boat tour, and our captain told us they’re only accessible by boat or kayak and more popular with locals than tourists; some are easy to access from the road though.

If you’re on a kayak, these would be a good idea for a stop-off and simple lunch, but it may be a good idea to check reviews before making a beeline for them or basing your route around their offering:

Gavrilovac Restoran | only by boat

Пелиново Плажа | only by boat, and appears to be a lunch stop on some boat tour company’s route

Lesendro Fish Restaurant | we stopped by these to take some photos and, whilst the setting by the road and underneath the Lake Skadar bridge may not look the best on first appearances, it’s actually a good and relatively peaceful spot. There’s also Restoran Konoba Starčevo next door - and the plus point is that it can be accessed by car (just park up at the roadside and walk down).

Plan / If you have plans to visit Albania on the same trip, then chances are you may be wondering if the one-third of the lake on that side is more deserving of your time? Our definitive answer is that the Montenegrin side is 100% the more beautiful. However, you should absolutely make time for the city of Shkodër!

For all our guides, make sure to visit our Albania travel page.

Hang Around in Virpazar

Once just a settlement beside a river whirlpool known as Vir, the town grew into an important Ottoman trading post . Its name is a compound of Vir and the Turkish/Slavic ‘pazar’ or bazaar, literally meaning “the market at Vir.” Today, it’s still a marketplace of sorts, though the wares have changed from grain and livestock to boat tours and local wine.

During Ottoman rule, Virpazar was a modest but strategic outpost on the route between the Adriatic and the interior, with several fortifications built around the lake. The most notable is Lesendro Fortress, which guarded this narrow channel and shifted control between Montenegrin and Ottoman hands for centuries.

Whilst we’ve haven’t really talked about Virpazar in glowing terms, it really isn’t all that bad when the crowds and traffic are at a reasonable level for its size (usually before 10am, after 4pm). And the reality is that, whilst it doesn’t convey the sense of peace or nature that we anticipated, some travellers will spend most of their time there when not out on the water.

A few of our personal recommendations are:

Virparis (maps) |The best choice for excellent coffees and freshly baked pastries.

Konoba Demidžana | There are a handful of restaurants in town, and we enjoyed a simple but delicious lunch of local trout here (maps). A couple of alternatives are Restoran Stari Konak, which has a nice terrace with a view, or Boat restaurant Silistria which, as the name implies, is literally a restaurant on a moored boat. Carp is the other locally sourced fish that features on most menus.

Besac Fortress | This guarded the approach to Lake Skadar during Ottoman times. It lay as a ruin for decades, but has been very tastefully renovated into the classiest restaurant in town: Besac Heritage Retreat. The prices are still very reasonable though, and we’d mark this one down if you want something a bit more foodie in a unique setting in the evening. Probably best to turn up in something a wee bit smarter too.

You can also still just go in to have a quick look at the compact fortress for a coffee or a drink, and there’s a small wine museum within its walls, but these days it’s no longer an essential place for everyone to visit - find it here on Google Maps.

Views | If you walk or drive out along the road from town, past the fortress, you’ll find two excellent lake viewpoints. They’re best enjoyed in the morning or just before sunset, with the second one having a small bench - find them here and here on Google Maps.

Tourist Office (maps) | Open 9am-3pm every day except Sundays, this is conveniently located if you’re in doubt about boat tours or any other activities. They also have the bus and train timetables in the window.

We should also mention that the Voli supermarket at the entrance to the town is your main option if self-catering. The range isn’t great and the prices for some fruit and veg don’t match the ticket, and we highly recommend checking the date before buying any packets of Jaffa Cakes.

Good to Know // The parking can be a total nightmare for Virpazar, and there’s also a railway crossing to contend with, so road trippers should definitely read our advice at the end of the post on the best place to head straight towards with the car.

Where To Stay on Lake Skadar

Most will direct you toward Virpazar, solely because it’s the main departure point for boat tours, easiest to reach by car, also served well by train and bus.

The river village is actually split into two areas - separated (or linked) by a a kilometre of road and railway track - with one part being the tourism hub with the dozen or so tour agencies, a few restaurants, a mediocre supermarket, a nice coffee shop, tourism office and an incongruously large 4* hotel. The other part is more residential, but also has a supermarket, a winery, and the small train station.

Either is adequate for a night or two.

For some travellers, the ease of accessibility by bus and train will make Virpazar the best choice, and for others only here for a night and boat trip, then it’s still going to be the most convenient option.

However, as mentioned, as the day-to-day is so based around day trippers and groups, it may not be the best choice for lakeside scenery and serenity.

For those with a car, staying longer, and / or looking to explore more of our recommendations around the shoreline, we recommend spending a bit of time looking into accommodation elsewhere. Whether it’s Rijeka Crnojevića, another village, a winery, a remote guesthouse up in the hills, or a simple A-frame in the countryside, it will give you much more opportunity to enjoy the unique setting of Lake Skadar.

To help you out, we’ve shared our pick of some of the best options for every travel style and budget.

NB. As with many places we visited during our Montenegro road trip, guesthouses/hotels are not abundant in Lake Skadar, with free-standing chalets or self-catering properties being much more common.

Virpazar

As mentioned, the village is split into two distinct areas, and it’s a 10 to 15-minute walk between the two. The parking can be a nightmare (find our advice at the end of the post), so we recommend those with a car confirm options with your accommodation before arrival.

Hotel De’Andros | Virpazar’s only luxury offering, this modern 4* hotel sits in the centre of the town’s historic centre, right on the edge of the lake (with the views to accompany it). It’s relatively new and offers all the amenities one would expect of a larger, fancier hotel including a rooftop pool and bar. Very convenient client parking too.

Draga’s rooms | It’s not going to win any awards for style, but this small guesthouse has excellent reviews, is located right on the lake and would be a good option for those seeking a double room on a small budget.

For those requiring a little more space in the centre of Virpazar, consider Guesthouse Vukasevic. The rooms are large, have a small and simple kitchenette, a balcony and the reviews are wonderful - especially regarding the host.

If you’re arriving by train, this simple - and very affordable - guesthouse by the station may work well.

Lake Valley | Located around a 10 minute walk from the centre of Virpazar, Lake Valley is a collection of stone chalets centred around a large landscaped courtyard and inviting swimming pool - it would be a glorious place to stay during the hot summer months. The chalets themselves are simple but cosy with real wood accents and modern finishes. An excellent breakfast is provided, and it’s also possible to get dinner.

Eco Villas Merak is a very similar, nearby property with equally fantastic reviews.

Looking for a little more space? Possibly the most stylish place to stay in town, this large, open plan two-bedroom property is gorgeous, full of light and pretty darn stylish! As a bonus, it’s got a large balcony overlooking the water.

For more of a farm/homestay experience, consider Ethno house OSOBAK or Dembelija Rooms.

If you’d prefer your own space, take a look at Vida’s House, Apartments Vojislav, Dado, Honey Farm House, or Pavle's Oasis.

Rijeka Crnojevića

Skala Luxury Rooms | Our pick of where to stay in Rijeka Crnojevića. A collection of modern, light-filled rooms that have been renovated to a high standard with modern amenities.

Hotel S Family Jovicevic | The best ‘traditional hotel’ in the village, the rooms are simple and compact but light, bright, comfortable and considered. They’re also very affordable and many rooms have lake views.

If you’d prefer an apartment, take a look at Apartment Vujovic and Lidija Apartment or - if you need more space - the lovely Holiday Home MIA.

Godinje

If you’d like to be close to Virpazar, but surrounded by vineyards, lake views and very minimal development, Godinje could be perfect.

Old House Leković | A spectacular old farmhouse that has been beautifully renovated with modern amenities whilst retaining the traditional details. The host goes out of their way to help in any way she can, the breakfast is wonderful and you can enjoy a glass of wine made from the farm’s vines whilst admiring the views.

Apartments "Old House Pajovic" | The property isn’t as nice as the one above (it’s a bit more modern) but it has hundreds and hundreds of excellent reviews, the interiors are tastefully decorated and comfortable and being apartments, they offer a good amount of space. A decent choice.

Elsewhere

Slightly scarred by recommendations to stay in Zabljak - the commercial centre of Durmitor - instead of the surrounding countryside (spoiler: if you’ve got a car, you really don’t need to, and it’s much more enjoyable away from the commercial centre), and operating under the assumption that Virpazar would be far too touristy, we instead opted to stay in a charming little chalet around a 8 minute drive away.

It was the perfect decision, and an especially fantastic way to round off our three weeks in Montenegro, a country where we fell much more in love with the mountains than the coast. Perfect for two, it had a small but adequate kitchen, a humungous handmade wooden bed, a woodburner for cooler nights, a large outdoor area, a nightly soundtrack of bells as the cows returned to the shed, and views out over the surrounding peaks. Plus, oddly enough a oversized temporary pool of sorts - a little incongruous but I’m sure we would have taken a dip if we’d had longer at the lake.

Cottage Retreat offers a similar vibe to AI cottage, and is actually somewhere we considered staying.

Holiday Home Raduš | It’s fairly isolated and the home itself is on the small side and relatively basic - but that’s not the reason we’re recommending this property. Instead it’s the direct lake access and the sun terrace. An ideal spot if you’re looking for somewhere for a few days in the summer.

Panorama Stone Houses | Set at a higher vantage point than most properties, this charming stone cottage is the perfect cosy hideawy and offers the most incredible panoramic views of the lake.

Parking in Virpazar

The turnoff from the busy main road into Virpazar is easy to pass by the first time you arrive, and quite a treacherous one if the traffic or timing is off.

It's not very clearly signposted, an impatient line of traffic can build up behind as you wait for an opening, and yes, those are train tracks* you'll be turning straight into and crossing over.

If the barrier happens to be down, just breathe and try not to panic!

The good news is that parking is such a nightmare in Virpazar anytime after 8am that there’s actually no point driving in and looking for a space. Instead, the easiest and most convenient free option is to head off the busy main road straight to this uneven, unmarked dustbowl car park just outside the town (Google Maps). It gets packed as the day goes on, but if you arrive early or luck’s on your side you’ll find a spot. As it gets so busy, it’s important to park well and as tightly as possible to help out other drivers.

Note that this is also where buses and coaches park, so don’t be tempted by what looks like a convenient empty space in full car park: it’s probably where the bus needs to reverse out.

From this car park, you can walk via the underpass and come out by the Voli supermarket, thereby avoiding the train tracks and busy road.

If that car park is full, the next best option is this long uneven, unmarked parking area (Google Maps). It’s tricker to enter / exit due to the clusterfuck parking arrangement outside Voli, and you’ll need to make use of the turning circle at the end, but it’s still better than other options in the pedestrian-heavy centre. Be aware that as you drive into Virpazar or try to enter this parking area, a guy may ask you to roll down your window to offer a boat tour. Unfortunately, as with Rijeka Crnojevićan and Perast, these touts may claim that this parking is only free for people who take their tours, but this is a scam.

The next best alternative is to drive into Virpazar, go across the bridge, take the road up to the left and find a spot at the side of the road; those which are private will be marked or blocked off with water bottles or cones.

Finally, there’s a proper car park in the centre for guests of Hotel De’Andros. We understand you can pay €10 to use it for a few hours though, but this isn’t always guaranteed. It may also be free if you book a boat trip via the hotel, but you’re probably overpaying on that to save.

*You can get to Virpazar by bus and train from Bar and Podgorica; those arriving with public transport can walk along the busy main road to reach Virpazar’s centre and boats, but you’re better off crossing the tracks and taking the quieter path to the town.

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